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Old 31 March 2011, 14:29   #21
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Bogmonster/Hightower - are you using through-hull transducers? Straight through which means that the beam is point aft a bit or angled so its vertical (or a little forward)?

Richard
I took the casing off a transom mounted transducer and Sikaflexed the transducer directly to the planing wedge area, one side of the centre stringer. I then braced the top of the transducer to keep it even more secure.
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Old 31 March 2011, 19:54   #22
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Originally Posted by Richard Selman View Post
Bogmonster/Hightower - are you using through-hull transducers? Straight through which means that the beam is point aft a bit or angled so its vertical (or a little forward)?

Richard
Mine was one of these in hull transducers http://www.sailgb.com/p/Garmin-010-10327-00-transducer/

Unfortunately it was fitted wrong when the boat was built (the instructions about calculating deadrise angles are a bit sh^te ) so it was pointing off to one side rather than straight down, and didn't work well.

I got a replacement base for it and was going to try and fit it properly as per instructions, but I couldn't shift the old base with anything, God knows what they stuck it on to the hull with but I hope the rest of the boat was made with it as it will last till the next millennium!

Anyway I decided to do a bodge and see if it worked, so I took out the transducer and stuck it on the hull with some silicone type stuff (a glue variety called Stixall) in a flat spot just to the port side of the keel stringer, so it's pointing near enough straight down. This contravenes the instructions which say you should mount it on the side the prop travels downwards, ie starboard side in a normal rotation engine, but it works like a beauty up to 35 knots in 100+ feet of water, not tried it any faster than that yet, but I'm happy! Thinking about it, at speed the hull would tend to list to port with prop torque, so I'm not sure the instructions make sense, but it works where it is anyway so that is where it is staying. Can take a photo of exactly where I put it if you want?
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Old 31 March 2011, 23:04   #23
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Going to put a through hull transducer in. No angle - just vertical. Spoke to Mike about cutting a bit of the 'stringer' away to make it fit but he said that it is not there for the strength but to duct water from the forward of the fuel tanks to the back of the boat since the tank section is filled with foam. Its only a plastic U section lightly glassed in. He said just to cut it away so I did.

Going to mount it right on the centreline of the planing pad. Can't see that requirement for being on the port side being too much of an issue. Only going to make it a few cms farther away from the falling prop.

You were right - there is another bulkhead about 6" forward of the hatch hole. Glad I saw Gotchiguy's photo as I was thinking of cutting further forward.

Hope there are drain holes in the transom box ducting as this would explain a lot. Sat in the rain with the console top offf for a while. Also hosed out the transom boxes and console after drilling all the holes.

Richard
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Old 01 April 2011, 06:39   #24
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Originally Posted by BogMonster View Post
Mine was one of these in hull transducers http://www.sailgb.com/p/Garmin-010-10327-00-transducer/

Unfortunately it was fitted wrong when the boat was built (the instructions about calculating deadrise angles are a bit sh^te ) so it was pointing off to one side rather than straight down, and didn't work well.

I got a replacement base for it and was going to try and fit it properly as per instructions, but I couldn't shift the old base with anything, God knows what they stuck it on to the hull with but I hope the rest of the boat was made with it as it will last till the next millennium!

Anyway I decided to do a bodge and see if it worked, so I took out the transducer and stuck it on the hull with some silicone type stuff (a glue variety called Stixall) in a flat spot just to the port side of the keel stringer, so it's pointing near enough straight down. This contravenes the instructions which say you should mount it on the side the prop travels downwards, ie starboard side in a normal rotation engine, but it works like a beauty up to 35 knots in 100+ feet of water, not tried it any faster than that yet, but I'm happy! Thinking about it, at speed the hull would tend to list to port with prop torque, so I'm not sure the instructions make sense, but it works where it is anyway so that is where it is staying. Can take a photo of exactly where I put it if you want?
Stixall, great stuff at a great price. I'm using this stuff for all my fitting now, much cheaper than Sikaflex and just as good.

The instructions about positioning the mount on the prop downwards side is only really relevant to the transducer being mounted behind the prop as on some cruisers and Yachts. There's no problem with outboards and leg drives etc.
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Old 01 April 2011, 06:44   #25
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Going to put a through hull transducer in. No angle - just vertical. Spoke to Mike about cutting a bit of the 'stringer' away to make it fit but he said that it is not there for the strength but to duct water from the forward of the fuel tanks to the back of the boat since the tank section is filled with foam. Its only a plastic U section lightly glassed in. He said just to cut it away so I did.

Going to mount it right on the centreline of the planing pad. Can't see that requirement for being on the port side being too much of an issue. Only going to make it a few cms farther away from the falling prop.

You were right - there is another bulkhead about 6" forward of the hatch hole. Glad I saw Gotchiguy's photo as I was thinking of cutting further forward.

Hope there are drain holes in the transom box ducting as this would explain a lot. Sat in the rain with the console top offf for a while. Also hosed out the transom boxes and console after drilling all the holes.

Richard
You've created an extra bit of work for yourself, one side of the stringer would have been fine Richard. Just be careful when sealing the transducer to the hull that you don't block that channel up
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Old 01 April 2011, 08:57   #26
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Would have to have done something since the nut on the transducer was bigger than the gap either side. Its probably bigger than the surface mount ones. Prefer it in the middle and away from the planeing pad edge - its really not that wide at that point. Now I have a nice flat surface to seal against.

Thats the hole drilled through the hull now. Hope the transducer arrives before the Easdale trip.......

Not convinced the planeing pad does much but it is a great place to put the transducer where it will not hit when grounded or hit by the trailer.

Richard
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Old 01 April 2011, 09:02   #27
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OK, would have thought the planing pads were pretty much the same size across the Vipermax range. I guess yours is smaller than mine. I'll take a photo over the weekend and show you my installation.
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Old 01 April 2011, 18:33   #28
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The instructions about positioning the mount on the prop downwards side is only really relevant to the transducer being mounted behind the prop as on some cruisers and Yachts. There's no problem with outboards and leg drives etc.
Ah, that makes sense now
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Old 02 April 2011, 03:38   #29
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Water in the hull void - I usually get an egg cup full on each outing, which I put down to water getting in through the cable glands of the stern boxes and then dribbling down into the below deck cable ducting. I spoke to Roy some time ago and he confirmed that there are holes in the underdeck trunking, to minimise the problems of cabling sitting in water. Not a problem if you have a drain bung fitted
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Old 02 April 2011, 18:13   #30
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Water in the hull void - I usually get an egg cup full on each outing, which I put down to water getting in through the cable glands of the stern boxes and then dribbling down into the below deck cable ducting
I get absolutely nothing in the hull of mine, it's bone dry, so the glands shouldn't leak?
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Old 03 April 2011, 00:57   #31
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Ian M - since the planing pad rises towards the transom, a bung there would still leave a good quantity in the hull. I have jacked my trailer up as high as it can go on the jockey + axle stands and it still is not enough to get the water to drain to the back. Through the deck is the only way to get it dry.

Stopping on a steep slip might be enough.

Would actually be better to go into the next compartment forward to get the true low point at the tip of the planing pad but this would not be so good for locating the sounder.

Was thinking about putting a drain port through the planing pad but if this is all I get out after 3 years then I'll just stick to the sponge now and then.

Richard
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Old 03 April 2011, 03:14   #32
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Ian M - since the planing pad rises towards the transom, a bung there would still leave a good quantity in the hull. I have jacked my trailer up as high as it can go on the jockey + axle stands and it still is not enough to get the water to drain to the back. Through the deck is the only way to get it dry.

Stopping on a steep slip might be enough.

Richard
Which is exactly what I do.
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Old 03 April 2011, 03:21   #33
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I get absolutely nothing in the hull of mine, it's bone dry, so the glands shouldn't leak?
I guess that depends on how well they are sealed. My outboard cables have the standard Evinrude nylon mesh sock around them, and then the cables all bunched together into the rubber gland, which is really just a bit of rubber around the outside of the bundle - hardly waterproof! However, it does not cause me a problem, just undo the drain bung as I sit on the slip - maybe one day I will be arsed to do something about it, but at the moment other things demand my time
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Old 03 April 2011, 05:42   #34
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I've never had water in my hull. Now I've got a deck hatch I'm expecting that to change
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Old 03 April 2011, 05:44   #35
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I guess that depends on how well they are sealed. My outboard cables have the standard Evinrude nylon mesh sock around them, and then the cables all bunched together into the rubber gland, which is really just a bit of rubber around the outside of the bundle - hardly waterproof! However, it does not cause me a problem, just undo the drain bung as I sit on the slip - maybe one day I will be arsed to do something about it, but at the moment other things demand my time
Ah ok - mine are installed through a sort of spiral-reinforced flexi tube, it is sealed well at the gland at the transom box, though the other end keeps coming out of the flange on the engine which is slightly annoying. When it's shoved into the engine properly, it must be near enough waterproof (splashproof) unless you completely submerged everything halfway up the engine cowling in which case you'd have more immediate issues than a bit of water in the hull
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Old 08 April 2011, 15:24   #36
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A little late, but pictures from inside my hull void. You can see the transducer under the piece of fibreglass that I have glued on top to keep things well supported.
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Old 21 April 2011, 09:01   #37
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In relation to this, tried to get the deck hatch off on ours yesterday - won't budge a milimetre. Guess it's better to leave it like that though rather than risk a leak by not putting it back correctly etc.
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Old 21 April 2011, 09:17   #38
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I'd recommend you persevere. I decided to flocoat the inside to finish it off but was having trouble drying it out. Kept getting dribbles of water even with the trailer jacked up so that the keep was sloping backwards. I then put an engine lift on the hitch and lifted it up until the hitch was at head height. Must have got another 2 bucket loads out or more.

Anyway job finished now. Perfect signal at all speeds.

Richard
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Old 21 April 2011, 17:05   #39
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I then put an engine lift on the hitch and lifted it up until the hitch was at head height. Must have got another 2 bucket loads out or more.
Love to but boat is as below however with only 5 inches to other boats in all directions! We raised the nose up using the tractor in September and nothing at all came out. Not a drop. (had been in for 8 weeks solid). Then put it in for a week in October and there was at least 2/3 pints.
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Old 22 April 2011, 13:49   #40
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I'd recommend you persevere.
Done it

Little bitty of water in there, maybe 2 pints or so. Pics taken after a few spongefuls. Our transducer is mounted well off to one side and actually goes through the hull (pic so that there has had to have been a hole cut in it. Wonder what it's sealed with I think if we had been able to jack the nose up it would simply have kept coming. Nothing we can do about it really except sponge it out once a year I guess. Have left it open to dry though, so will see how that helps, then crack out the vaseline at half term

Anyway, main job today was to make a wiring diagram of the console so that we can work out if fitting AIS is going to be feasible. Judging by the fact that our NMEA network is a bundle of crimped wires in some insulating tape... I think that it is a forlorn possibility

Plus a gratuitous pic of the boat in the shed stuffed in amongst the other boats.
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