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Old 17 December 2009, 03:57   #61
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Originally Posted by Neville View Post
cookee,

did you buy the cladding aswell precut or are you doing that yourself?

doing a similar project myself with a workboat - contemplating using jim more designs for a complete plug kit, am interested to see how yours comes along

good luck
Hi Neville,

We did consider it, and Kitten has got very proficient at Rhino (the 3D drawing package) now, but we are cutting it all to fit - as usual with these things the fiddly bits are the steps, and that bit is well on the way to being done, the rest of the bottom is fairly flat which is straightforward.

Don't know the kit you're talking about, but it sounds interesting - do you get the skin with that package?
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Old 18 December 2009, 08:47   #62
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A few updates for those of you not too bored yet!

Painted and polished plug ready to make the steps
The hull with one of the steps in position
A couple more ready to fit
All in position
And from behind!
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 19 December 2009, 08:33   #63
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we initially priced a wooden female mould kit with a company in italy, and were quite tempted, but i didnt fancy the idea of refinishing the inside of the mould, these come with foundations, cladding etc and allegedly just slot together. check out www.3dwmoulds.com


It now looks like we will be going with this other company called Jim More Designs who are uk based and have provided plug kits for alot of racing yachts etc.

I believe they can come with or without the cladding.

Im a little bit aprehensive about the project in case we slip up, and we do like to rush things as time is money as im sure you will be more than aware !

Are you coating your plug with GRP ?

Cheers
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Old 20 December 2009, 01:24   #64
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what are skins and cladding???

is 3d cnc milling not a simple alternative or is cost considerably higher??
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Old 21 December 2009, 09:37   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neville View Post
we initially priced a wooden female mould kit with a company in italy, and were quite tempted, but i didnt fancy the idea of refinishing the inside of the mould, these come with foundations, cladding etc and allegedly just slot together. check out www.3dwmoulds.com


It now looks like we will be going with this other company called Jim More Designs who are uk based and have provided plug kits for alot of racing yachts etc.

I believe they can come with or without the cladding.

Im a little bit aprehensive about the project in case we slip up, and we do like to rush things as time is money as im sure you will be more than aware !

Are you coating your plug with GRP ?

Cheers
Sounds interesting, which boat are you looking at building? If you don't mind me asking what sort of cost (PM or email me if you prefer) is this system and what do you get? It looks like you will have a female mould instead of a plug to make a mould, that means you will be dealing with concave surfaces rather than convex ones, which are a little harder to get nice and flat - but I don't know the process or your skill levels!

Our plug will either be painted with high build paint, then sanded and polished or laminated with shiny Formica or a combination of both which is most likely, then we will take a mould off that to make the boat from.

Gtflash - the cladding or skin is the surface you take a mould off that goes over the frame - the mould for the steps was made this way with a high build paint polished to a shiny surface.

3D machining is the preferred option, it is undoubtedly much faster if the lead time is not too great but is costly compared to the method we have used. In addition the foam plug then has to be coated in a material hard enough to take a mould off which is more money - I believe the material itself is expensive - I have not seen how good the machine finish is, but I believe some hand finishing is still required with this method. If we had the money we would follow this route without a doubt.
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Originally Posted by Zippy
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Old 02 February 2010, 12:09   #66
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A few more photos to show what's been happening recently - the hull is now covered with shiny white stuff (stuck 9on with spray on contact adhesive) and the spray rails have been fitted.
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 02 February 2010, 17:28   #67
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Thanx for the update Cookee. What is 9on - a non-stick/mould release surface?
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Old 02 February 2010, 17:39   #68
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Thanx for the update Cookee. What is 9on - a non-stick/mould release surface?
.....or a typo, perhaps?
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Old 03 February 2010, 10:08   #69
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Thanx for the update Cookee. What is 9on - a non-stick/mould release surface?
The shiny white stuff is just Formica as you would put on your kitchen top, it provides a great hard shiny surface for taking a mould off, and we have used it for some time for making plugs.
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Old 22 February 2010, 11:59   #70
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A bit more progress - the two rear sections of spray rails are now covered in Formica and the curved forward rails are painted and polished, the whole running surface has been polished and the sides are now on and flat and waiting for the "Formica Treatment".

Once all of that is done the next stage will be attaching the flange and making the hull mould, turning it over and starting on the other side.

The boat will be "Seamless" with no rubrail so it will be joined from the inside whilst all being still in the moulds - the first time we will see the finished boat it will come out all joined together!
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Originally Posted by Zippy
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Old 22 February 2010, 13:47   #71
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the steps on the hull are vented by rebates behind the step
Oooh sounds interesting .. is this a method of improving the air ' skin' under the hull ?
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Old 23 February 2010, 03:48   #72
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Oooh sounds interesting .. is this a method of improving the air ' skin' under the hull ?
Kittens better on the theory than me, but this is all about keeping the steps vented, with shallow steps it is easy for the steps to get closed off when the boat heels over, the steps then suck water and hold the boat over on one side until it releases, then rolls onto the other side and repeats the process. With larger steps this is prevented.

Once the steps are properly vented the hull will ride on two or three points instead of the whole back of the boat reducing drag - it doesn't have an "air skin" under the hull.
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Old 23 February 2010, 12:51   #73
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Hehe, I'm gonna put me neck across the block and reckon on a wee bittie too much bow lift.

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Old 23 February 2010, 13:18   #74
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Do all the rails line up, just from the photos it looks as though where you have a step the next rail is inbetween the previous two? Is it just how the photo has been taken? If not why don't you have them running in line?
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Old 24 February 2010, 03:17   #75
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Hehe, I'm gonna put me neck across the block and reckon on a wee bittie too much bow lift.

All of the spray rails are removable although we think it's just about right (Obviously!)

No they don't line up!
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Old 24 February 2010, 05:09   #76
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Hehe, I'm gonna put me neck across the block and reckon on a wee bittie too much bow lift.

Do you mean recovery? Have you taken into account the progresive spillage from the angled rails and the waisting of the fwd hull?
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Old 24 February 2010, 05:15   #77
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Do you mean recovery? Have you taken into account the progresive spillage from the angled rails and the waisting of the fwd hull?
How come the spray rails don't line up?
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Old 24 February 2010, 08:13   #78
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How come the spray rails don't line up?
coz.
question for Chewy, why should they?
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Old 24 February 2010, 08:26   #79
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Do you mean recovery? Have you taken into account the progresive spillage from the angled rails and the waisting of the fwd hull?
Yeh, ok you could call it recovery given that mostly the forward hull will be cutting the water but that bow will be riding the bigger waves. Not worth discussing tho cos I can only see the build pics... I'm sure you'll remember I said it and put me right after running it for a while... or not.

Just jokin.

It's a lot of work tho guys and I hope it's a big success for you..
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Old 24 February 2010, 09:49   #80
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coz.
question for Chewy, why should they?
I was just interested that was all, you've obviously made the rails like that for a reason?
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