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Old 30 April 2015, 08:52   #1
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Zodiac restoration project

Hi,
this is my first post here. I'm new to the, inflatable boat world. a friend took me out last summer and I got the bug. So as soon as it started to warm up I started looking for a boat of my own.

I just purchased a what i believe to be a 1977 model Zodiac GR MK3. the plate on back says model 3463 and serial number ending M77B. If anyone can confirm I'm interpreting that right that would be great.

The boat has seen better days but I got it cheap. I have been researching different ways to restore the boat and read tons of threads here on this forum. If I missed one that addressed this already, my apologies.

my question is.... thoughts and opinions on re-covering the tubes with a new layer of hypalon? I plan to find and patch any holes in the existing tubes (found two already) and then cover the tube with a new layer of hypalon. Essentially just a huge patch.
This will be cheaper than tuff-coat or like options and provide an extra layer of protection on the original tubes As well as making them look like new.

Has anyone tried this?
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Old 30 April 2015, 13:22   #2
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Originally Posted by AKjon View Post
Hi,
this is my first post here. I'm new to the, inflatable boat world. a friend took me out last summer and I got the bug. So as soon as it started to warm up I started looking for a boat of my own.

I just purchased a what i believe to be a 1977 model Zodiac GR MK3. the plate on back says model 3463 and serial number ending M77B. If anyone can confirm I'm interpreting that right that would be great.

The boat has seen better days but I got it cheap. I have been researching different ways to restore the boat and read tons of threads here on this forum. If I missed one that addressed this already, my apologies.

my question is.... thoughts and opinions on re-covering the tubes with a new layer of hypalon? I plan to find and patch any holes in the existing tubes (found two already) and then cover the tube with a new layer of hypalon. Essentially just a huge patch.
This will be cheaper than tuff-coat or like options and provide an extra layer of protection on the original tubes As well as making them look like new.

Has anyone tried this?
The paints are actually the cheaper solution. Adhesive is about $80 per liter, and hypalon is about $150-$250 per meter. Not to mention the quantity of labor required.

Do you have some pictures of the boat?
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Old 30 April 2015, 20:21   #3
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i can buy adhesive from a local supplier for $90 gallon ($22.50 liter) and i found a good deal on some bulk hypalon. $100 for about 45 sq ft (just over 4 meters)

Tuff-Coat will cost me over $400 after shipping. other paints might be a little cheaper but dont offer any added protection.

I'll get a few pictures posted soon.

Thanks.
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Old 30 April 2015, 21:06   #4
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i can buy adhesive from a local supplier for $90 gallon ($22.50 liter) and i found a good deal on some bulk hypalon. $100 for about 45 sq ft (just over 4 meters)

Tuff-Coat will cost me over $400 after shipping. other paints might be a little cheaper but dont offer any added protection.

I'll get a few pictures posted soon.

Thanks.
What brand and model of adhesive, and what brand & decitex of hypalon?

There is junk adhesive and junk Chinese hypalon out there...
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Old 30 April 2015, 22:15   #5
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i did not get a brand name of the Hypalon, just that it is 35oz. the adhesive is Clifton Hypalon Adhesive, sold by NRS.
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Old 30 April 2015, 22:51   #6
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here is the ID plate. i'm having issues with the other pictures i have. i'll take more tonight.
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Old 30 April 2015, 22:57   #7
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maybe easier to read.......
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Old 01 May 2015, 07:06   #8
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Here is a couple pics of the boat.

As an alternative to trying to cover the whole tube, I'm thinking maybe just a couple of large patches on the bottom of the tubes where they are more likely to rub more often.
I'm not worried about winning any beauty contests with this boat. I'm just looking to make it river worthy and reliable.
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Old 01 May 2015, 12:11   #9
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Is the white stuff weathered material, or is it ground in dirt / paint?

I would just give the whole boat a good cleaning. A Mr Clean magic eraser with some powerful boat detergent works wonders.

Maybe hit the tough spots with a rag and some toluene.
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Old 01 May 2015, 15:50   #10
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That is weathered material. I actually just grabbed a handful of magic erasers yesterday and plan to go to work on it this weekend.

Any tricks of the trade for loosening up old valves. They don't seem to be leaking but I was still going to clean them up and considering flexseal, or toobseal, as an option if I continue to lose air
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Old 01 May 2015, 17:09   #11
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The cap gasket, one-way diaphragm, and valve base gasket should be replaced. The brass components should be cleaned. Light corrosion can be removed with vinegar.

To remove the IC cup assembly, utilize a 10mm deep well socket to remove the nylock nut inside the valve, then simply wiggle the flywheel while pulling outward. DO NOT PRY. The valves are brass, easily damaged, and are very expensive.

The valves should be cleaned with solvent and regreased with Evinrude triple guard grease.
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Old 02 May 2015, 01:19   #12
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That boat and plate certainly seem to be from a late 70's early 80's MKIIIGR. I can confirm model #3463 was that model as it corresponds to our old 1981 MKIIIGR. Those boats were gray with black floors. This one looks like the tubes were painted black. Also looks like someone tried to convert the transom for a long shaft engine. They all had short shaft transoms in those days.
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Old 02 May 2015, 07:50   #13
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Office888, I just replaced most of the gaskets tonight as I found a couple leaking and had extra new ones given to me with the boat.
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Old 02 May 2015, 07:57   #14
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Projectile, thanks for the reply. I knew most of the pictures I have found they were grey, just assumed they made one in black also. Didn't think about it having been painted. if that is the case I guess the Grey areas starting to show through aren't as big of a concern as I thought. I don't see any fabric showing anywhere but was still concerned that material may be deteriorating or getting thin.

The transom does in fact have an extension added to it.more so for keeping a jet unit as shallow as possible than for a long shaft.
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Old 02 May 2015, 17:58   #15
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Well after a couple of tube patches and replacing some valve gaskets I have a boat that successful holds air!! (at least over night)
Now to patch a couple of thin spots in the floor and maybe I can put this thing in the water tomorrow and test it out.
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Old 03 May 2015, 22:23   #16
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zodiac

If I owned the boat I would as you have already stated make it air tight then I would try and clean the tubes up with acetone (nail polish remover etc) then paint it with hyperlon paint. Keep us posted with the repaint etc even if it takes a while .....good luck.
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Old 27 June 2020, 02:03   #17
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AKjon, you still around? I have a very original 3463 and was wondering how your restoration went.
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Old 19 February 2024, 23:30   #18
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XDC, I was cleaning up the inbox and found this. sorry for letting this thread die. I would probably no longer use the term "restoration" to describe my boat project lol.
It did however get me through a few good seasons of use with minimal troubles. I cleaned it up and ran it "as-is" with the plan to just upgrade to a new boat after a few years. I haven't used it much for last couple of years and it has developed a couple of new air leaks.
I actually plan to pull it out this spring and get it back on the water. I plan to pull the valves and clean them up again and put some ToobSeal or SuperSeal in them to hopefully seal up any small pinholes I may have.
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