Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 22 September 2014, 17:34   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
SIB Trailer Build

I'm knocking up a trailer for my new SIB, I'll post progress if anyone's interested.

It's a Gemini GRX
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0205.jpg
Views:	236
Size:	149.2 KB
ID:	99231  
__________________

__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 September 2014, 17:40   #2
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
The trailer it came on would be ok for local launches but I'm Midlands based and either head north to Scotland or south to Pembrokeshire so I want something that I don't have to worry about.

I'm inventing the trailer as I go along so any good ideas will be appreciated!
__________________

__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 September 2014, 17:56   #3
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
Progress so far....
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0213.jpg
Views:	238
Size:	143.4 KB
ID:	99238   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0222.jpg
Views:	236
Size:	148.8 KB
ID:	99239   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0228.jpg
Views:	225
Size:	153.0 KB
ID:	99240  
__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 September 2014, 18:00   #4
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
It's a bit of an evening and weekend project when I can fit it between real (paying) jobs.

Has anyone had experience of getting an IVA on a trailer from VOSA?


All the best, Jim
__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 September 2014, 18:10   #5
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
It's not another Clicky thread I promise (I hope).
__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 September 2014, 23:29   #6
RIBnet admin team
 
Nos4r2's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,828
RIBase
It doesn't look like it. If anything it looks like the trailer will weigh more than the boat .
__________________
Need spares,consoles,consumables,hire,training or even a new boat?

Please click HERE and HERE and support our Trade Members.

Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE
Nos4r2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 02:13   #7
Member
 
Peter_C's Avatar
 
Country: USA
Boat name: Uh...a kayak?
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,486
OH MY, and I thought "I" overbuilt stuff. Very nice job!

When I built the upright stanchions for my 4.2m SIB, I used aluminum, and welded up only four of them. Two can be seen in the photo below. I reused the single u-bolts, but what you can't see, is the part that fits into the frame channel to keep it from rocking and carries the actual weight to the trailer.


Nice shop setup for manufacturing large steel objects.
__________________
Peter_C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 11:38   #8
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
It doesn't look like it. If anything it looks like the trailer will weigh more than the boat .

Spot on Nos4r, at the moment it weighs the same as the boat, 100kg


There's a bit more to go on it yet though
__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 11:51   #9
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C View Post
what you can't see, is the part that fits into the frame channel to keep it from rocking and carries the actual weight to the trailer.
That makes sense Peter.

I like your 'transom saver' and I'm messing about with a home made mk1 version. Do you get much side to side movement with it? I was thinking of an A-frame arrangement to try and reduce movement in the leg.

Also would you recommend a short sloping bunk section to help recover the boat onto the main bunks?

I'm trying to work out angles of straps/transom saver at the back end and it's getting crowded.


Cheers, Jim
__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 12:02   #10
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
Couple of the back end.

Two bits of box to support the transom and stop the boat sliding off the back of the trailer. Other pic is mk1 transom saver being invented.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0266.jpg
Views:	229
Size:	153.6 KB
ID:	99242   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0267.jpg
Views:	602
Size:	120.2 KB
ID:	99243  
__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 12:22   #11
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: gloucestershire
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 342
Very nice !. are you going to get it galvanized ?

I made a transom saver for my sib of a similar type to Peter_c (but made of salvaged materials) and just use a small ratchet strap round the leg and back of the trailer to keep it all snugged up, works well .
__________________
camelgas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 12:28   #12
Member
 
Peter_C's Avatar
 
Country: USA
Boat name: Uh...a kayak?
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,486
Quote:
Originally Posted by hippyhunter View Post
I like your 'transom saver' and I'm messing about with a home made mk1 version. Do you get much side to side movement with it? I was thinking of an A-frame arrangement to try and reduce movement in the leg.
I would always recommend a transom saver especially with a SIB. Mine does flop side to side, and although I don't really think it will damage anything, it is annoying to watch in the rear view mirror. If I ever built one it would extend up the lower leg, as you have already done to keep it from flopping about.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hippyhunter View Post
Also would you recommend a short sloping bunk section to help recover the boat onto the main bunks?
YES! I cut mine at angles, then sanded them to a nice round over, only because my trailer came with them. If I ever have to build new ones, I will build a stainless bracket to hold a section of 2x6" bunk at around a 25* down angle...or so. It would probably be one of those eyeball builds, which I think you know something about. The bracket could just be 3/16" with a couple strips welded to the bottom for added strength over the bend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hippyhunter View Post
I'm trying to work out angles of straps/transom saver at the back end and it's getting crowded.
You don't have to tell me about a busy transom! The angle of the tie down straps is not nearly as important as actually putting them on.

What the heck are those uprights at the back for? Seriously overkill, "if" they are just to keep the boat from going backwards.

One thing I would also highly recommend is side bunks or a roller to help guide the boat one in rougher/windy conditions. I prefer to drive the boat on the trailer, IF the trailer gets dunked. I quite dipping the trailer in salt water though after building transom wheels brackets and legs.
__________________
Peter_C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 12:55   #13
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by camelgas View Post
Very nice !. are you going to get it galvanized ?

Thanks, yep it'll be off to the galvanisers (to add more weight).
__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 13:21   #14
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C View Post
What the heck are those uprights at the back for? Seriously overkill, "if" they are just to keep the boat from going backwards.
I want to take as much movement as possible out of the transom when I'm towing with the engine on the boat. I'm planning on strapping diagonally backwards from the D-rings on the transom down to the trailer so the transom is pulled tight against the uprights. I won't be so concerned about tube pressure when I'm going down the road.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C View Post
One thing I would also highly recommend is side bunks or a roller to help guide the boat one in rougher/windy conditions. I prefer to drive the boat on the trailer, IF the trailer gets dunked. I quite dipping the trailer in salt water though after building transom wheels brackets and legs.
They're in the pipeline. I'd prefer not to fit transom wheels so the trailer will get dunked although I've got an idea for preserving my wheel bearings.

One thing I did realise after I made the Neptune's trident affair at the front was that it would be a nuisance to mount a winch if I decide I want one.


Thanks for the advice
__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 13:27   #15
Member
 
Festinghouse's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Chorley / Holyhead
Boat name: Northwind Challenger
Make: Tornado
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mariner 115 efi CT
MMSI: 235080598
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,408
RIBase
Send a message via Skype™ to Festinghouse
i built this a few years ago, supported the leg perfectly when strapped down and had the sloping bunks as mentioned
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	CIMG0108.jpg
Views:	244
Size:	157.5 KB
ID:	99249  
__________________
"Life may often suck, but the alternative is unacceptable"
MMSI Sticker

Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
Festinghouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 14:16   #16
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hereford
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 115
Crikey that skeg's seen some action.

Cheers FH, those sloping bunks look like the way ahead.
__________________
hippyhunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 14:23   #17
Member
 
Festinghouse's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Chorley / Holyhead
Boat name: Northwind Challenger
Make: Tornado
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mariner 115 efi CT
MMSI: 235080598
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,408
RIBase
Send a message via Skype™ to Festinghouse
yeah i never did get round to repairing that one, too many rocks around anglesey!
__________________
"Life may often suck, but the alternative is unacceptable"
MMSI Sticker

Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
Festinghouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 September 2014, 17:07   #18
Member
 
Peter_C's Avatar
 
Country: USA
Boat name: Uh...a kayak?
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,486
I have never seen a boat with anything more than a couple of strap tie downs at the stern. You do need to support right under the transom with the bunks. Without those two poles in the back you already won't have any movement as your motor support stand looks solid

Another thought, since you are dipping it would be to completely seal the trailer up, so that there are no holes in it. That way salt can't get to the inside. I might be inclined to temporarily rig something up to pressure test it. Then cut off the fitting, weld it closed and grind it flat.

A winch is a must have...period. Mine got used pretty much every time I dunked the trailer, and even more so when I don't and drag it on.
__________________
Peter_C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24 September 2014, 01:40   #19
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: gloucestershire
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 342
If the box section frame is welded closed , then galvanizing will most likely distort the chassis.
__________________
camelgas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24 September 2014, 02:28   #20
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: reiver 3.8/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: 40hp 2st 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,403
Galvanising company won't dip closed tubes as they are likely to burst when dipped
Best idea is leave tubes as open as possible to ensure complete coating with zinc.drill high & low drain holes to avoid pooling or air entrapment during dipping
__________________

__________________
beamishken is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:20.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.