SBS trailer Al-Ko Flange Nuts

[Sargan]

I have an SBS 2600 EL. Twin axle trailer.
They state hubs are maintenance free, just look in through observation hole to view thickness of brake pads.
I launch in salt water ... and hubs always look poor after 12 months .. so I remove, clean all, grease adjuster mechanism, oil springs. Etc,
In previous trailers (Indespension) they had castellated nuts and split pins, installed with end float for Taper Roller bearings.

These hubs are fitted with one-shot elliptical flange nuts .... that have to be replaced and set to 290Nm torque. (That is a pretty serious torque)

Key Q ... Al-Ko state ... “Before fitting a new flanged nut, a small amount of the special mineral grease must be applied to the stub axle thread.”

Anybody done this ? .... what grease did you use?

I am assuming the tightening force allows for the difference of having grease applied, plus will help prevent threads galling.

I do have a torque wrench that goes that high ... but how easy it will be to apply that much force I have yet to find out .... may have to add extension tube to Torque wrench handle.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Sargan

I have an SBS 2600 EL. Twin axle trailer.
They state hubs are maintenance free, just look in through observation hole to view thickness of brake pads.
I launch in salt water ... and hubs always look poor after 12 months .. so I remove, clean all, grease adjuster mechanism, oil springs. Etc,
In previous trailers (Indespension) they had castellated nuts and split pins, installed with end float for Taper Roller bearings.

These hubs are fitted with one-shot elliptical flange nuts .... that have to be replaced and set to 290Nm torque. (That is a pretty serious torque)

Key Q ... Al-Ko state ... “Before fitting a new flanged nut, a small amount of the special mineral grease must be applied to the stub axle thread.”

Anybody done this ? .... what grease did you use?

I am assuming the tightening force allows for the difference of having grease applied, plus will help prevent threads galling.

I do have a torque wrench that goes that high ... but how easy it will be to apply that much force I have yet to find out .... may have to add extension tube to Torque wrench handle.

I used a smear of copperslip & an electric impact gun on mine. The gun was set to 300Nm. Never had a problem.

[Sargan]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

I used a smear of copperslip & an electric impact gun on mine. The gun was set to 300Nm. Never had a problem.

I do have copper slip, my air-impact gun is not adjustable. So will have to use Torque wrench.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Sargan

I do have copper slip, my air-impact gun is not adjustable. So will have to use Torque wrench.

300Nm is pretty beefy as you say. About 220lb/ft iirc. Basically a 18” breaker bar with you swinging on the end should do it.

[HDAV]

Originally Posted by Sargan

I do have a torque wrench that goes that high ... but how easy it will be to apply that much force I have yet to find out .... may have to add extension tube to Torque wrench handle.

Then it should be long enough to achieve the required torque surely?

[Sargan]

I have an 16” long 1/2” square drive torque wrench that goes to over 300Nm.
So I may have to use a length of tube over handle to crank it up.

[69cmw]

Originally Posted by HDAV

Then it should be long enough to achieve the required torque surely?

Surely it depends how strong/weak you are [emoji848]

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by 69cmw

Surely it depends how strong/weak you are [emoji848]

Yup[emoji106]

[Sargan]

I clamped the drive end in a vice and could get it to 200Nm but not get it to 300Nm ... but the bench did start moving.across the garage :-)

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Sargan

I clamped the drive end in a vice and could get it to 200Nm but not get it to 300Nm ... but the bench did start moving.across the garage :-)

Stick a metre of pipe on the end. Scaffold pole works well.

[Sargan]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Stick a metre of pipe on the end. Scaffold pole works well.

That was my thought ...... hope trailer stays put.

[paulbrown22]

I use some supposedly water repellent white lithium grease, and similarly a very large torque wrench, which I can only just get to 290Nm without needing a scaffold extension!

[Sargan]

So a smear of any waterproof mineral grease should be fine.

[Sargan]

Quick check anybody found good source for flange nuts & dust caps.

[Sargan]

Related Q.
Assume you knock off the dust caps with a chisel or similar .... do you reuse them, or replace.
Al-Ko show them being refitted with a special tool, do you just knock on with a rubber mallet ?

[paulbrown22]

I think Al-Ko say you can supposedly use the same special tool to remove them too, not that I have one?

Personally I just use some large bladed screwdrivers or chisels to get them off, although occasionally one has been seized so tight I've had to alter it's shape a bit with a hammer to get it out... If everything is cleaned up prior to reassembly, I find they just gently tap in quite easily. I reuse if I can, or if I did end up hitting hard it to get it off, replace it.

[Sargan]

Non..they say to use a chisel to lever off.
Hope they come off for reuse then.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Sargan

Non..they say to use a chisel to lever off.
Hope they come off for reuse then.

I’ve teased them off with a rubber mallet in the past.

[Sargan]

Used to do that to ‘Bearing Savers’

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Sargan

Used to do that to ‘Bearing Savers’

I’ve also used a pair of Facom “mole grip” type pliers that open very wide but keep the jaw parallel. They work well too.
Where there’s a will...