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Old 25 August 2013, 22:20   #81
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Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
This tells the car that the trailer is connected, & car goes into "trailer mode". The LEDs present a higher resistance than a filament bulb so the car doesn't see the trailer, however the search voltage is sufficient to cause the LEDs to glow.
Shouldnt that read

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Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
This tells the car that the trailer is connected, & car goes into "trailer mode". The LEDs present a lower resistance than a filament bulb so the car doesn't see the trailer, however the search voltage is sufficient to cause the LEDs to glow.
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Old 27 August 2013, 18:45   #82
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Shouldnt that read

Iirc the LEDs have a current limiting resistor in series otherwise they would be a dead short on DC with the correct polarity. The current limiting resistor is around 1 kOhm, which is a lot higher than the the filament bulb, that's why you have to put the "spoofing" resistor in // with the LEDs, to simulate a filament bulb.
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Old 04 October 2013, 18:35   #83
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I've got another set of "submerisble" ones that I was hoping to have fitted in time for tomorrow's Forth cruise, but various stuff got in the way and they probably won't be on 'till next week. Will report as & when they go swimming.
Once again life got in the way and the kit is now tested & ready to fit, but still lying on the bench...

So, Ford Focus with OEM trailer module. LED Autolamps clusters

No "strobing" as seen by others, but I have had to fit 2 22Ohm resistors in paralell with the indicators to stop "disco effects". Admittedly the disco lights were only a problem in the dark as the LEDS that shouldn't have been on were just glimmering (or in the case of ther O/S indicator - 3/6 of the LEDS were glimmering!) but other than that, plug & play.

Now I just need another 4 months to fit them to the trailer & I'll report back on the submersible side of things......
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Old 04 October 2013, 19:15   #84
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It's my winter project to do a led light board so far I have the board
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Old 04 October 2013, 21:44   #85
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Mine are well under way.

Stainless steel 'sliding' brackets fabricated - although only tacked together in these images.

Submersible light units, Number Plate light and Fog lamp.
Acrylic backing boards.

Just need to break out the adhesive lined heatshrink and run a set of cables down each side to the winch post where I'll add a waterproof junction box, before going forward with a single cable to the plug.
I'll also use the junction box to mount the resistors as the D3's CANBUS system doesn't like the light units I have.

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Old 04 October 2013, 22:21   #86
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Mine are well under way. Stainless steel 'sliding' brackets fabricated - although only tacked together in these images. Submersible light units, Number Plate light and Fog lamp. Acrylic backing boards. Just need to break out the adhesive lined heatshrink and run a set of cables down each side to the winch post where I'll add a waterproof junction box, before going forward with a single cable to the plug. I'll also use the junction box to mount the resistors as the D3's CANBUS system doesn't like the light units I have. Nasher.
They look good I might have to go and raid PD shed for some bits now.
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Old 04 October 2013, 23:38   #87
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For Mick

This is exactly what I've used, but I purchased them from different vendors

12V 24V Number Plate LED Light Multivolt For Truck Trailer Boat BMW Audi Ford | eBay

Trailer Light - LED Autolamps 12v Rear 3 Function Stop Tail Indicator G2 Plug in | eBay

LED Autolamps 135FME Rear trailer, truck fog light | eBay

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Old 05 October 2013, 00:07   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
Mine are well under way.

Stainless steel 'sliding' brackets fabricated - although only tacked together in these images.

Submersible light units, Number Plate light and Fog lamp.
Acrylic backing boards.

Just need to break out the adhesive lined heatshrink and run a set of cables down each side to the winch post where I'll add a waterproof junction box, before going forward with a single cable to the plug.
I'll also use the junction box to mount the resistors as the D3's CANBUS system doesn't like the light units I have.

Nasher.

Not dis-similar to mine. I managed to get the ballast resistor into the light clusters behind the red reflector.
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Old 05 October 2013, 18:29   #89
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Not dis-similar to mine. I managed to get the ballast resistor into the light clusters behind the red reflector.
I was a bit worried about squeezing them into a tight space as they generate a bit of heat.

Not going to get anything done on them tomorrow as I'm changing the D3's Timing Belt and HP Fuel pump belt
Hoping it will be easier than the last one I did which was my Subaru Legacy GTB.

Nasher.
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Old 05 October 2013, 18:39   #90
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I was a bit worried about squeezing them into a tight space as they generate a bit of heat. Not going to get anything done on them tomorrow as I'm changing the D3's Timing Belt and HP Fuel pump belt Hoping it will be easier than the last one I did which was my Subaru Legacy GTB. Nasher.
Now that's a job and a half good luck
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Old 05 October 2013, 19:18   #91
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The current limiting resistor is around 1 kOhm, which is a lot higher than the the filament bulb, that's why you have to put the "spoofing" resistor in // with the LEDs, to simulate a filament bulb.
I assume you put the small resistor in parallel with the LED/limit resistor. That kind of blows the whole low-current draw thing all to hell doesn't it?

jky
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Old 05 October 2013, 23:53   #92
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I assume you put the small resistor in parallel with the LED/limit resistor. That kind of blows the whole low-current draw thing all to hell doesn't it?

jky
It increases the current on the indicators only, the brake & sidelights aren't a problem, at least not on the Discovery. The current draw was never an issue, it was the reliability of the filament lamps that was a PITA.
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Old 06 October 2013, 18:40   #93
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I have had a few sets of LED lamps from these guys and also other sellers on ebay... The say they are watertight although they are not IP rated... However they have all let water in. I have stuck with them and eventually found that by wicking super glue into any joins on the plastic of the lenses My latest set have lasted for a year....
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Old 07 October 2013, 13:13   #94
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We are heading down a remarkably similar road. Only difference is due to various space constraints I (will!) have the square fog lamp & number plate on a "short" board on the A- frame with a Bulgin Bucanner to connect into the Jn box at the winch post (also feeds the boat battery - I have a 13 pin Euro skt) and I have just used filament lamps for that as it won't be going swimming.....

I used a 22Ohm load resistor as I reckoned that all I needed to do was give the voltage somewhere "solid" to go - 22ohm gives about 7W, and when it's (It being a 10W wirewound resistor) flashing generates next to no heat (I could touch it with no issues after 10 mins operation, and on a cold evening was only moderately lukewarm) , so I have just put them in the Jn box.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
I assume you put the small resistor in parallel with the LED/limit resistor. That kind of blows the whole low-current draw thing all to hell doesn't it?

jky
This isn't about current draw - it's about removing the faff factor of loosing a 2m manky plank into the back of the car (that will inevitably touch the seats) every time I launch!

Quote:
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I have had a few sets of LED lamps from these guys and also other sellers on ebay... The say they are watertight although they are not IP rated... However they have all let water in. I have stuck with them and eventually found that by wicking super glue into any joins on the plastic of the lenses My latest set have lasted for a year....
I could have sworn mine had "submersible" written on the box..... I must investigate further!
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Old 09 October 2013, 22:41   #95
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due to various space constraints I (will!) have the square fog lamp & number plate on a "short" board on the A- frame
Oh dear. I really must learn to speak the English language......

Allow me to clarify my atrocious wording, which may imply I have the fog light at A- frame height...... which of course would be totally illegal.

<engage clear English campaign mode>

What I meant to describe is that instead of using the long thing fog lamp used by Nasher, I have used the square version, mounted on the opposite side of the O/S triangle reflector to the Tail / indicator cluster in order to adhere to the lamp separation rules.

I have mounted the number plate (which has no height restriction) on a short lighting board with 'plate illumination using conventional bulbs (helps to not confuse lighting modules as well! ) fixed to the A--frame. This board and also carries the reversing lights.




I have sealed the N/S wiring this evening, and if all goes to plan the O/S soldered joints will be sealed tomorrow (don't hold your breath! ) . & I can install the cables & Jn. box. I'll post some pics once it's all together.
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Old 09 October 2013, 23:14   #96
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Glad you're getting on with it quicker than me.

I managed to finish weld the supports together over the weekend but that was all.

Nasher.
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Old 10 October 2013, 17:55   #97
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Glad you're getting on with it quicker than me.

I managed to finish weld the supports together over the weekend but that was all.

Nasher.
There's a reason I decided to use heavily treated wood to support mine!
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Old 10 October 2013, 19:46   #98
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Nasher... You got any plans to make some more of these for a fellow Disco3'er
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Old 10 October 2013, 21:11   #99
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Hadn't thought about it really.

I could probably be persuaded, but would want to try them out properly first, and I'm tied up every weekend now until the middle of November, which will be when I next get to work on them.

Nasher.
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Old 10 October 2013, 21:16   #100
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I installed a set of Westbar LED Tail Lights on my trailer.
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