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Old 29 April 2013, 15:57   #1
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Engine position for towing

There are many opinions about tilted, blocked, down as far as possible.
I'm of the opinion that for towing the engine should be tilted, turned and supported. That way it is bearing down on the transom and mounts whilst bouncing around on the trailer. With it in its down position whilst towing the outboard pulls on the transom with every bump on the road, also the prop is very close to the road.
The manufacturers design the tilt mech for transport no?
I agree that rams and/or supports may need help in the form of blocks, but this is the way to trailer them surely.
The reason for this question is that I have had a few steadfast comments about trailering with the engines in the down position. I reckon you should tow with the engines tilted and supported.
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Old 29 April 2013, 16:06   #2
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I tow mine with engine tilted, turned to one side, and supported by a block of wood ( so power ram is not taking the weight,) , that way lower leg is well clear of the road, although my transon is right above the rear roller on trailer, not had any problems.
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Old 29 April 2013, 16:10   #3
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Less stress on transom with the motor in down position. (force straight down). But skeg is too close to the ground..... Hence the use of support bar to reduce transom twist force. In my mind the transom is designed to take this twisting load anyway, as the engine under power is also making this force. A strong rib should be fine.. If it breaks whilst being towed, is it fit for a rough sea?

Is the support block/ bar to stop the ram creeping down also?
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Old 29 April 2013, 16:13   #4
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With an engine trimmed out bouncing about on the waves there will be far more stress on the rams and transom, that said, I use a price of 4x2 to support it when on the trailer.
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Old 29 April 2013, 16:14   #5
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Quote:
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Less stress on transom with the motor in down position. (force straight down). But skeg is too close to the ground..... Hence the use of support bar to reduce transom twist force. In my mind the transom is designed to take this twisting load anyway, as the engine under power is also making this force. A strong rib should be fine.. If it breaks whilst being towed, is it fit for a rough sea?

Is the support to stop he ram creeping down?
If the motor is down it is behind the transom and pivoting over the mounts, don't forget that when the prop is pushing the boat it is actually pushing up and forwards.
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Old 29 April 2013, 16:15   #6
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lots about this here
http://www.rib.net/forum/f8/outboard...own-46436.html
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Old 29 April 2013, 16:17   #7
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Totally correct, there's lots there, what's the view? Well I think I know the correct answer, just need a convincing argument that convinces me that it's worth considering engine down. Which I won't anyway.
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Old 29 April 2013, 23:02   #8
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There are numerous hypotheses that get discussed and different folks have different views. Nowt wrong with that.

Never spent enough time considering every pro and con angle so have just gone with the Ribcraft/Suzuki advice we were given at handover: engine up, no chock, any steering angle, enjoy

Can't say as I've ever heard that any particular configuration caused anybody a problem.
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Old 01 May 2013, 11:39   #9
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There are numerous hypotheses that get discussed and different folks have different views. Nowt wrong with that.

Never spent enough time considering every pro and con angle so have just gone with the Ribcraft/Suzuki advice we were given at handover: engine up, no chock, any steering angle, enjoy

Can't say as I've ever heard that any particular configuration caused anybody a problem.
I agree with Leapy - had same advice from RC at handover - Engine fully up, no chock, crack on.
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Old 02 May 2013, 08:54   #10
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My engine will drift slowly down over time so could potentially drop low enough to hit the ground. It does however have a "flip over" transport brace which it lowers onto giving it a firm transport position. In my opinion, raising it puts the weight directly over the transom, rather than behind it, however I dont think the forces during trailing are going to be significant compated to forces exerted on the water.

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Old 02 May 2013, 10:09   #11
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I would expect the various twisting moments to be minimised by having the engine down, but with the heaviest part being so close to the axis it rotates about, I'm not convinced it makes a great deal of difference from a structural point of view.

The leg will exert various twisting moments, but assuming it weighs much less than the engine block and guessing that its centre of mass is between a quarter and a third of the way up, is it going to make much difference? I suspect not enough to worry about it.

If the whole engine was of a uniform density, the answer would clearly be to tow with it down, but they're not, so it isn't (necessarily).

I suspect more practical concerns are more important: if the engine's down, it might be too close to the road, if it's up it might be resting on a tilt lock that might not be quite strong enough, or a piece of wood that's not always that reliable (one of our old, unassisted manual-tilt 40hp two-strokes chewed through a chock a couple of years ago, and that was just crossing the road on a trolley).
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Old 02 May 2013, 11:08   #12
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I suspect more practical concerns are more important: if the engine's down, it might be too close to the road, if it's up it might be resting on a tilt lock that might not be quite strong enough, or a piece of wood that's not always that reliable (one of our old, unassisted manual-tilt 40hp two-strokes chewed through a chock a couple of years ago, and that was just crossing the road on a trolley).
I towed over 550 miles last week with a 40HP 2S supported in the raised position with a piece of 2 x 2 wood. Perhaps I was taking a big risk doing that
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Old 02 May 2013, 11:40   #13
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I use the bit of wood to save the tilt mechanism but probably will fabricate something to brace the leg direct from the trailer this year to save the transom from flexing on longer journeys. Some of the potholes are getting HUGE but at home we're getting the bike race next year & they've already made a start filling all the ones on the route....
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Old 02 May 2013, 11:48   #14
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Do they not make "transom savers" in the UK?

Over here we use braces like this. http://cdn.stripersonline.com/a/ab/a...ttach39898.jpg

BTW there is some debate over the utlity of things like this, particularly for adequately built fiberglass transoms.
http://www.boatus.com/trailering/201...nsomsavers.asp
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Old 02 May 2013, 12:00   #15
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I've Tow'd All over the Place,and continue to do so..Somerset to Scotland is a Slaap,and Carnarfon last weekend is a Good Trial too.. I definately recomend (after trying different options) Rams in 'Down' on to Block of woood with engine turned to right,and Strapped/Supported in possision (I use small Ratchet straps around Leg to Trailer) in position to stop Latteral movement.
I would say I think the Bigger (Heavier) the engine the more important it is to support it as much as Poss.
With the Roads as they are these days...I also Check All the Fixings!... Often.
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Old 02 May 2013, 12:23   #16
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I've Tow'd All over the Place,and continue to do so..Somerset to Scotland is a Slaap,and Carnarfon last weekend.
Scotland and Wales?!! Wow, that really is a slaap.
Mind you, if I lived anywhere near Taunton, I'd also wanna get the feck out.
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Old 02 May 2013, 12:45   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack View Post
Do they not make "transom savers" in the UK?

Over here we use braces like this. http://cdn.stripersonline.com/a/ab/a...ttach39898.jpg

BTW there is some debate over the utlity of things like this, particularly for adequately built fiberglass transoms.
Who Needs A Transom Savers - BoatUS Trailering Magazine | BoatUS
I have looked at these on ebay and they all seem to come from Australia and the U.S. are they any good ?
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Old 02 May 2013, 12:50   #18
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I have looked at these on ebay and they all seem to come from Australia and the U.S. are they any good ?
I have one. It supports my Yam F60 independent of the little locking lever and doesn't come loose. So it seems to work, but I have never cracked a transom either so I am not sure how I'd tell if it "wasn't working"?
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Old 02 May 2013, 12:54   #19
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I have one. It supports my Yam F60 independent of the little locking lever and doesn't come loose. So it seems to work, but I have never cracked a transom either so I am not sure how I'd tell if it "wasn't working"?
Thanks for that Capt'n it would be interesting to hear if in U.K. guys have one one here.
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Old 02 May 2013, 13:38   #20
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The mercury manual shows these outboard trailer bars with a v for the gear case to rest in but I haven't found where to buy one in the uk. Seems like a good idea to stop the engine bouncing when towed. In fact the manual states you should not rely on the small tilt lock and rams when towing.

Who sells them in the uk I wonder??
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