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Old 31 March 2005, 16:37   #31
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This pic:

http://dogscogs.com/gallery/album01/DSCF0759

Suggest you may have counter rotating props ... or are my eyes getting old?
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Old 31 March 2005, 16:42   #32
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Just another suggestion! Are the twins setup correctly, toe in/out if you know what I mean? Not so sure how this would affect chine walk though.
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Old 31 March 2005, 16:43   #33
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Quote:
Why does my boat rock?
Hey Dude, all Ribs Rock!!

(sorry, son's in rock band the speak is rubbing off on me )
Kernow
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Old 31 March 2005, 17:00   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
Also, and excuse me....But!! I don't see the point of moving the weight up front to increase the wetted area under the hull to get over the problem of chine walking unless you're already fully trimmed in and still get it? I mean, if by increasing the weight up front to effectivley increase the surface area in contact with the water, isn't that going to slow your top speed? Its the same as trimming in isn't it? And by having a lesser weight up front you would have an advantage in a following sea.

Andy
We need more weight in our bow as our Yam 200HP will not trim far enough down, and it needs a little more (not by much). This is because the angle of the transom is not enough for our Yam 200. The boat was designed for a Merc which trim down more than a Yam. However triming it down makes head on solent chop more easy to deal with which is why we have a 50lbs weight in our bow. Another option is to install a wedge to help force the nose down or trim tabs. We dont think we need go that far and the boat works well now.

However that weight does not effect our chinewalking. As I said in an earlier post we get walking when we are trimmed up too high trying to get the fastest from the boat. We get to the point where there is very little hull touching the water and then walking starts. I can minimise it by not reacting to it when it occurs and trying not to swing on the wheel ... I keep it very steady and balanced.

If it walks, trimming down a little solves it and we loose a few mph. However we certainly are not trimmed down as far as the engine will go ..... and so I dont think having weight to hold the nose down is helping much, as there is plenty of trim still available to force the nose down without the weight.

I would be happy to take a look at your boat. We are out Sunday travelling from Portsmouth to Swanage for some diving. Happy to meet you on the way for a quick look, but we will be passing southampton water early! Like 8:30am
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Old 31 March 2005, 17:28   #35
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Hi Andy,

Probably going to be a little early, but will let you know either way on here if you are around on saturday.
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Old 01 April 2005, 00:06   #36
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Andy's thread above pretty much sums up how to get around the wobbly boat syndrome

If it's chine walking then I think you should be able to drive through it with practice and knowledge of the boat.

I used to have an Avon 4.7 with a Yammie 70 (I loved that Boat!) and she used to really rock about 6 knots before terminal velocity, so I took her down to the test estuary for a couple of days. As soon as I got used to the steering I was able to understand the lack of compensation I needed to apply to get through the chine walking.

have you done any powerboat training, if not consider getting some own boat tuition.

I'd be happy to come out with you and burn some of your fuel and tell you if it's an issue or not! Has your boat got footstraps?
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Old 01 April 2005, 02:34   #37
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Hi,

No straps, I am getting my RYA done soon... in my own boat, so maybe I can get some tips then.

When are you out next rougue?
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Old 01 April 2005, 04:06   #38
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Andy,

I was meant to ask - how do I check if the cavity is dry?
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Old 01 April 2005, 05:19   #39
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Laurence Lock was busy, but spoke to a guy called Barry who has pretty much told me the same as you guys - so as soon as I get the battery charged for the port engine, I will try playing with the trim... if that doesnt work I will get the boat taken out of the water and check the cavity also.

Thanks again Guys.
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Old 01 April 2005, 05:21   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benc
Andy,

I was meant to ask - how do I check if the cavity is dry?
At the very bottom of the transom there is a plug that you screw out to let any water in the hull void (obviously the rib will have to be out of the water!! ).

My rib used to chinewalk before from just below 50kts. I thought the boat was overpowered initially but I found that there was water in the hull void caused by the plug not being screwed in tight enough. Emptying the void solved the problem.

Again as Andy said, I suggest you contact Laurence Lock at Barnet Marine who will be more than obliging to help sort it. He knows everything there is to know about your RIB.

edit: just seen you've contacted them already, good luck with getting it sorted. She's a cracking RIB by the way!!
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