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Old 14 June 2009, 10:31   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7 View Post
Whilst you are in the bow use a mirror and torch to see if there is a date on the end of the tubes which will give the date of tubes manufacture.
Pete
Wouldn't have thought of that!
It would appear the tubes are signed by Edith, on 19/5/00.

As for fibreglass, I think this is the time to start learning! I'm more of a wood and metal person, but i'm willing to give it a go. Is there a recommended instruction manual?

The Henderson bow hatch is what I was looking for, thanks.

At the moment I'm concentrating mostly on the engine, but I think that the console locker will be getting upgraded fairly soon after that.

Douglas
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Old 14 June 2009, 14:32   #12
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Give Southport Glass supplies a ring and ask for there manual, tells you everything you need to know.

http://www.glasplies.co.uk/

Pete
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Old 14 June 2009, 15:13   #13
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This is a Small Viking Hatch. Just the right size and hard wearing too...
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Old 21 June 2009, 03:55   #14
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Osprey drain point

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris View Post
I have not bothered with one on my VMax as I am confident that it won't leak being that it is an Osprey however if you think it has water in the hull it only takes a few minutes to fit one.
Haven't decided whether to bother or not, but before I go drilling holes in the transom, does anyone have info on the underdeck structure of an early 90's Osprey.
I'm assuming that there will be a route for water all the way from bow to stern, and there won't be a series of sealed compartments under the deck?
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Old 21 June 2009, 04:45   #15
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Hi, is just made a hole in the floor of my Osprey Eagle (1990) yesterday, because i felt there was water inside.
Here is the result :

Top is fiberglass
Then wood
Then Foam. No open space.
btw, the brown inside is water.....
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Old 11 July 2009, 12:59   #16
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Quote:
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Next questions!
At some point in the past, the opening into the bow moulding has been enlarged, and the hatch cover removed.
Was the hard nose section an integral part of the buoyancy system of these boats and supposed to be watertight?
I'm tempted to bolt an aluminium plate over the hole, and re-fit a screw cover on it, just in case!

The console "door" is really naff, but I'm struggling to find a decent door to fit, that will also allow the battery to be easily removed. Any suggestions?

The engine is currently in bits, awaiting an assessment of the damage to one cylinder. Looks like it's had a partial seizure at some time.
Anyone got a spare Johnson 90hp powerhead from around 1988?

Thanks
Douglas
Now sorted!
Bow done with marine ply and an ebay hatch:
Console with a door:
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Old 11 July 2009, 13:14   #17
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Hi There,
Where did you get the console hatch and what size is it please?!

I have a Sparrowhawk and have been meaning to replace the slidy hatch like you have for several years but never got round to it

Cheers,

Orve.
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Old 11 July 2009, 13:20   #18
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Also, perhaps someone can help me with a question about the bow structure.

I hope you don't mind me stealing part of your picture Douglas, but I have drawn around the join between the hull and the solid bow.

This interface on my boat has some cracking/separating/splitting and I need to decide the best way to repair it without it looking like a dog's dinner.

Anyone help?

Cheers,

Orve
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Old 11 July 2009, 13:38   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orville View Post
Hi There,
Where did you get the console hatch and what size is it please?!

I have a Sparrowhawk and have been meaning to replace the slidy hatch like you have for several years but never got round to it

Cheers,

Orve.
I got this one:
http://www.marinemegastore.com/produ...f_id=PLA_45019
Fits perfectly, but had to put a strip of ply across the top, on the inside, for the screws to bite into as the glassfibre was bowing slightly.

(No problem with borrowing pictures!)
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Old 11 July 2009, 17:52   #20
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Orve, the joint was made with fibreglass cloth tape coated in resin. If I was going to repair it, then I would clean the whole thing up with an angle grinder then flap wheel. Replace glass cloth and resin back in. You could use epoxy which would be stronger and if you have access to the inside then do that side as well. Mask off the area to give you a nice clean edge. Southport Glass Supplies will have the correct orange if you want a good match.

Tough little boats, considering some are now nearly two decades old. They stopped foaming the hulls about 91 time because it didn't add any strength just bouancy.

Pete
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