Originally Posted by rbw156
....This sounds like great advice. I like this idea a lot. Have you any pictures &/or diagrams?....
Nah, I've no pictures but I can explain it.
I used 3 rose joints of the type used as a standard steering fitment on an outboard. The steering arm on the main motor had a spare threaded hole and one rose joint was greased well and bolted onto it. If there is only one hole in the steering arm, you could easily use a long bolt and fit the new joint on top of the original steering draglink. This joint is to be left here and, hopefully, never used so it can be pivoted out of the way.
If your auxiliary doesn't have one, you'll need to get/make a bracket to work as a steering arm on it.
You'll also need a bracket to mount near the centre of the transom to which one of the other rose joints is bolted. I had used a length if angle across the transom to spread the load of the outboard and to prevent theft using a chainsaw. I bolted the rosejoint to this.
I made a tie bar from a length of Ø20 aluminium alloy with a stub of M10 thread screwed firmly into each end. The rose joints used an M10 thread.
The third rose joint was screwed onto one end of this tie bar and a locknut was used to allow some adjustment in length at that end.
The other thread of the tie bar was greased and screwed into the joint on the central bracket but it was not completely tightened up so it would allow a bit of rotation of the bar.
A bolt and wingnut then connected the tiebar to the auxiliary motor.
The auxiliary can now be tilted and lowered whilst attached to the bar. I do remember having to put a slight bend into the bar to clear an obstruction. I think it was if the main motor was tilted and also over on full lock it contacted the tie bar. It was an easy fix.
How to use: Spin off the wingnut and remove the bolt. Spin out the tie bar from the joint on the central bracket. Remember it wasn't tightened up so no tools are necessary. Spin the tiebar into the joint on the main motor's steering arm and then reconnect the bolt and wingnut. Voila.
As always, it sounds a bit complicated when written but it's a straightforward job.
The auxiliary engine was not allowed to be supported on the tilt pin when underway. There was a pivoting bracket on the outside of the transom to support it in the tilted position. I've no pics of that either. The engine clipped to the support using the its normal catch so it was only necessary to press the release lever and the bracket fell into the down position and the engine was then lowered. So no mucking about required.
I only once had to use the auxiliary and I was pleased it was 30hp. I suppose it was a bit unusual in that one bank of cylinders on a Merc 200 stopped firing and the engine didn't have enough power to get the boat planing. I was faced with a 20 mile trip home at a few knots, it would be dark in a short while and I'd also miss the tide on the slip by a long way when I got there. Bummer. However, the auxiliary was connected as described above and both engines were used. The boat easily planed and we travelled at close to 30mph for the whole journey. Still missed the slip though and it was just dark as we arrived back at the harbour but a success, none the less.