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Old 03 February 2013, 15:57   #21
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Followup on the 420 Pro leak

I was incorrect about water potentially entering the hull at the bolt rope slots. It seems that Zodiac (mine is a Hurricane from Canada) put a sleeve inside the bolt rope slots and formed the fiberglass around the sleeve (picture a 3/4 PVC tube with 1/4 of it cut out lengthwise and the fiberglass wrapped around it. It seems the joint between the sleeve and the actual fiberglass is separating in a couple places, but any water that might get behind the sleeve never actually gets into the hull. Water must be entering a the rear end of the slot where the bolt rope does not fill it in all the way. Here comes the silicon to fill it in. And a new drain plug.
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Old 18 November 2013, 12:51   #22
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Following up on Zodiac water leaks

Gents... am recent addition to Ribnet forums but couldnt help noticing this thread. Am owner opf Zodiac Pro12 RIb and there was a recall on water ingress from transom area where the through holes are machined to fit self balers. The holes were machined such that the wall thickness with double bottom was compromised. Repairs were completed FOC under warranty

I am attaching a documented procedure for rectifying the issue.

Good luck to all
Attached Files
File Type: pdf VES rlr 00109-00 Transom bailer seating repair 01.pdf (111.7 KB, 141 views)
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Old 20 October 2017, 16:20   #23
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I'm curious to bring this back to life, for a solution, as I read there really isn't any conclusion?

I have a strange water in hull problem.
Bought a Zodiac 12 MAN PRO used, launched it with new drain plug installed, no engine on, took it back up 10 days later - no water inside.

Took it apart, repainted it completely, put on a 60 Mariner Bigfoot EFI, laughed it, and 10 days after I had it out of the water on a crane. 3-4 mins of water pouring out the drain plug! Saltwater!

Hanging on for dear life out over the stern in the crane 6m above the water, I checked the plug, cleaned it, seal that is new, looked flat perhaps.
And now it's docked next to my window, I can just see that the engines ventilationplate comes from 2" above water when trimmed all the way up, to getting closer and closer to the water, every day...
I simply can't believe that a faulty o-ring can bypass 20-40 liters every day!!?! There must be something else at play.
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Old 20 October 2017, 16:56   #24
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Yeah I did find the problem. I took the tubes off and there was a small cracking in the channel which the tube goes into. It was far enough up the channel to not get wet when the boat was unladen but when laden was below the water line and slowly let water in.

I dug it out with a demel and filled it with epoxy and fibre. Fixed the leak and didn't have a problem afterwards. Tubes are easy is to get on and off (I did it on my own) just use lots of fairy liquid to get them back on! Let us know how you get on.
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Old 22 October 2017, 21:56   #25
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Yeah I did find the problem. I took the tubes off and there was a small cracking in the channel which the tube goes into. It was far enough up the channel to not get wet when the boat was unladen but when laden was below the water line and slowly let water in.



I dug it out with a demel and filled it with epoxy and fibre. Fixed the leak and didn't have a problem afterwards. Tubes are easy is to get on and off (I did it on my own) just use lots of fairy liquid to get them back on! Let us know how you get on.


I had exactly the same problem as Martin did and used the same fix.
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Old 23 October 2017, 01:55   #26
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And how exactly did you figure out the crack was there? And both sides?
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Old 23 October 2017, 02:55   #27
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Mine was only on the port side.

We filled it with water with the transom bung in and that is where the water leaked out of the boat.

Once the tubes where off, the separation was obvious.
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Old 23 October 2017, 04:08   #28
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On a heavy duty trailer or?
If you fill it up on a normal trailer, the thing is gonna break. I thought of that, but thatís never gonna go good here. Thought of placing it supported on the ground, but then I think the engine has to come of as well.
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Old 23 October 2017, 06:23   #29
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On a heavy duty trailer or?
If you fill it up on a normal trailer, the thing is gonna break. I thought of that, but thatís never gonna go good here. Thought of placing it supported on the ground, but then I think the engine has to come of as well.


Surprised if you canít tilt engine far enough to clear the ground, especially if you were to put the hull on some old tyres or similar. I think most trailers would be ok with a hull void full of water sitting stationary - the dynamic loads of hitting a pot hole or speed bump at 20-30mph are much more dramatic than just sitting at rest. You can test by pumping air into hull and soapy water testing everywhere too, although it may be less obvious for a hidden leak.
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Old 23 October 2017, 06:41   #30
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We donít fill it to the top of the tubes, just high enough cover the rigid part. Played with the jockey wheel to adjust the level.

The trailer was fine.
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