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Old 15 September 2006, 12:24   #1
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Country: UK - England
Town: Bridlington, E Yorks
Boat name: Stormchild
Make: Ribquest 5.8
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF115TUL
MMSI: 235030489
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 83
Under seal for the motor.......

I use my vauxhall frontera sport as my tractor for launching my pride & joy. Its a decent little 4x4 and in good nick - on an X plate its the 2.2 16v petrol I picked it up in May this year with only 25'000 on the clock for a very reasonable price.

Because its gets its feet wet - Submerged up to the sills, twice everytime I launch & recover the boat. (Sometimes this is 2 - 3 times a week.) I want to do something to limit the damage that can be caused by salt water corrosion.
So far the effects of salt water corrosion are very minimal and thats exactly how I want it to stay - is there an anti foul type product / under seal that can be painted / sprayed onto the under side of the car to limit / prevent damage ?

One suggestion is mixing heating oil with red oxide paint and spraying this on liberally after using a pressure washer each time it comes out. Another suggestion was a heating oil / diesel mix......

I'm sure there will be environmental issues to using these kind of chemicals - and I dont want to create my own oil slick, every time the bottom of the motor gets wet.

Any suggestions anyone ?
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The important thing is this: To be able at any moment to sacrifice that which we are for what we could become. (& then get the RIB out !)
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Old 15 September 2006, 12:34   #2
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Anything you do that works and isn't a constant hassle is not likely to be green. Some folk put on old sump oil with an underseal gun, it lasts about a year but I couldn't possibly recommend it.


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Old 15 September 2006, 12:37   #3
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Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
The best AND easiest stuff I have ever come across is Acrypol - it is a roof sealant that sticks like the proverbial to a blanket - it is just slapped on with a big old brush.Make sure you wire brush any loose stuff off first.When it is all finished spray black waxoyl underbody seal over it and fill all the cavities with normal waxoyl. You can just use the waxoyl - make sure you use the underbody seal - NOT Shultz but Waxoyl Shultz - there is a big difference.

If you want to go the whole hog sandbalst the chassis back to bare metal and use Epoxy paint but that is a hell of a lot of work.

What ever you use make sure you wash the vehicle thouroughly underneath afterwards - you do NOT want high pressure - just loads of water - the laziest and most effective way is to use a garden sprinkler - just leave it under the vehicle for an hour when having a cup of tea!!! Pressure washers can wash off your underbody seal - wash grease out of the bearings and still not clear it all off!!!
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Old 15 September 2006, 12:59   #4
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Country: UK - England
Town: Pinner, Middlesex
Boat name: I SHOULD COCOA
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Engine: 5 hp yam
Join Date: Jul 2003
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http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/
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Old 15 September 2006, 14:17   #5
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Country: UK - England
Town: Isle of Wight
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I coated the underside of my 23 year Landy with Waxoyl and oil. My advice would be:

Just use Waxoyl as trying to work on a vehicle with oil is very messy
Better still use a rope to launch and recover! This is my current method and works well. You can buy some very strong rope as offcuts. My current bit of rope has a breaking strain of 6,500 Kgs.
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Old 15 September 2006, 16:39   #6
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Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Waxoyl every time. If I was in the UK I'd have both my vehicles done at Before N After, you get what you pay for I think and a proper inside and out job on the chassis is worth its weight in gold.

I don't put mine in the water as the slipway I use is steep enough to float the boat off with the back wheels of the 90 just at the waters edge, but even so it gets washed down afterwards, every time.
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Old 15 September 2006, 18:19   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
Waxoyl every time. If I was in the UK I'd have both my vehicles done at Before N After, you get what you pay for I think and a proper inside and out job on the chassis is worth its weight in gold.

I don't put mine in the water as the slipway I use is steep enough to float the boat off with the back wheels of the 90 just at the waters edge, but even so it gets washed down afterwards, every time.
I know you are into LRs big time - try Acrypol - it IS amazing stuff - can even be put onto a wet roof!!! Mates Rangie still looks like it's non stick underneath after 5 years.

Before and after may be good but at over£1k - gulp!!!
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Old 17 September 2006, 02:53   #8
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Country: UK - England
Town: Bridlington, E Yorks
Boat name: Stormchild
Make: Ribquest 5.8
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF115TUL
MMSI: 235030489
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 83
Thanks fella's....

Whatever i do is going to have to be a DIY job and I cant take the car anywhere because its in daily use and I cant be without it. Thanks for the advice, i'll give it a go.
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Old 21 September 2006, 17:23   #9
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Just tagging a bit on the end of the thread.

Be aware that the rear brake pads will stiffen up in the calipers due to rust if the rear of the car gets wet. This is prompted because my own tow car is due for it's MOT so today the brakes got a look see. The rear ones were all but seized and clearly the pads had not been returning because of stiffnes caused by corrosion. This has resulted in overheating and the friction material, although still thick, was pretty well baked and broke away easily using my thumb.
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Old 24 September 2006, 16:08   #10
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Country: UK - England
Town: Bridlington, E Yorks
Boat name: Stormchild
Make: Ribquest 5.8
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF115TUL
MMSI: 235030489
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 83
I'm using a mix of old engine oil and heating oil and spraying a good coat over the entire under side, in the chassis and getting as much coverage as I can.

Because of the nature of the beaches and launching spots aroung here, you've either got to pay £12 everytime for tractor assisted (+ another £9 for the council for the privalidge of launching anyways) or get your motor wet. This also means you can only go out and play when they're available. I opt for the latter, but will be taking much more care of the underside of the motor by oiling up before every launch and a good wash down after every recovery, then oiling up again. Its a hassle but I'm sure it'll pay in the end.
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