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Old 18 August 2010, 20:02   #1
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Searider Autopsy Photos

Water got into the plywood around the bolt anchors and rotted out the deck. I had to cut out 2 holes, each about 2 ft sq., to get to good wood. The front flotation chamber was completely saturated. Since there was no easy way to get a reliable seal on the inner chamber, I will be closing off the flooding ports while the boats in the water.

The pictures show the inside of the 5.4 SR for anyone that might be curious about what is going on down there. The deck is have inch ply sandwiched between heavily reinforced glass on the bottom and glass with a light chopped mat on top. The bolt anchors are 2 in sq stainless. You can see a good cross section of the foward ballast chamber, as I cut it for easier access for repairs. The rear chamber is intact. The Aluminum angle in the photos is what I put in to support the new deck.
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Old 18 August 2010, 20:14   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefflee2k View Post
You can see a good cross section of the foward ballast chamber, as I cut it for easier access for repairs. The rear chamber is intact.
They're buoyancy chambers, not ballast chambers.
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Old 18 August 2010, 21:29   #3
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Thanks for the pics. It's interesting how different the 5.4 is from the 6m. I just got done cutting the deck off, and there was a lot more material, and an actual ballast tank... which is now gone.
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Old 19 August 2010, 04:27   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai View Post
They're buoyancy chambers, not ballast chambers.
Not any more they're not...
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Old 19 August 2010, 06:24   #5
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Your 100% correct. The whole hull, when left to flood as intended is a ballast chamber, with the smaller foam filled chambers to add buoyancy and distribute the water evenly for better handling. I try to refer to them in as many different ways as possible so that someone doing a search in the future can find them easier.
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Old 19 August 2010, 07:05   #6
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Are the insides of other ribs similar to this, humber specifically, in very simple construction terms? (Except that instead of the under deck area flooding in and out the flooding hull hole on the outside at the rear, it would drain through a drain plug inside the boat at the bottom of the rear well where a bilge is often located)

My thoughts are along the lines, obviously the deck doesn't rot as it is sealed within glass both from water above and below, so unless you screw in to it, it won't rot.

Or do ribs without the constant flooding have a much lighter/less comprehensive glass coating under the deck?
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Old 19 August 2010, 07:13   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefflee2k View Post
Water got into the plywood around the bolt anchors and rotted out the deck.
fukk mee

didd yew saiy

'hooston, wee av a problum'

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Old 19 August 2010, 12:38   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefflee2k View Post
The Aluminum angle in the photos is what I put in to support the new deck.
Great pictures, very informative! Original build quality looking OK. Regarding the Aluminium angle, there is maybe one potential problem. It seams to be very close or even touching the hull(bottom). If/when structure moves in heavy weather the alu might start to work its way through the hull.

I know this is not likely to happen, but we had a GRP hard boat where we got a hole in the hull due to kind of a similar reason. Glueing/glassing the alu profile to the hull might eliminate the risk. Or then the SR is so stiff that it won't move anyway. Keep the good pictures coming on your project!
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Old 19 August 2010, 13:15   #9
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The aluminum is actually glassed to the hull. I have a T-top (permanent shade) for the boat that pulled the anchors out of the rotten deck to start this project. The aluminum will help anchor the top and distribute the load across the deck and hull. This boat was in service with the coast guard, and has a pair of lifting rings on the deck that they glassed to the hull in the same way for hoisting the boat out of the water. I also modified the shade so that it comes off while trailering, so the boat will only have to support an upward load generated by the boats top speed of 35 knts as opposed to highway speeds. I wish I didn't need the top, but we get 4 months of near 100'f weather and afternoon rains are possible most days.
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Old 19 August 2010, 14:53   #10
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Quote:
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The aluminum is actually glassed to the hull.
Ok, then no issue. Regarding T-tops, what is the protection factor for rain? Sun or heat is not typically an issue here(except for this summer with brilliant weather) but rain is not unusual. Not many T-tops around here.
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