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Old 17 April 2008, 16:06   #1
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Project Lomac botched rigging

Started to replace the towing eyes today as they were loose and rusty. They do not go though the transom but the hull extensions accessed by deck hatches and a 2foot blind reach to get to the inside nuts. Gave up trying to loosen the nuts and got out the die grinder ( air) and a cut off wheel. Hull is about 2 cm thick at this point and they used a piece of scrap ply and no washers. Any suggestions on a suitable new backing plate. Was thinking of some 1/2 inch oak or 1/4" ally. Has now turned into an all day job.
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Old 17 April 2008, 16:33   #2
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Our towing eye as gone south its the same type as the ones to the right of your
photo. the plate slips over the d ring so you cant tighten the nuts
The nice people at Scorpion are sending me a new type which as nuts on both
sides of the d ring
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Old 17 April 2008, 16:53   #3
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Originally Posted by Roy Smith View Post
Our towing eye as gone south its the same type as the ones to the right of your
photo. the plate slips over the d ring so you cant tighten the nuts
The nice people at Scorpion are sending me a new type which as nuts on both
sides of the d ring
Not quite the same. Both the old and the new ones have a shoulder, so the plate cannot slide up and therefore no need for a nut on the outside. Unless of course, yours are really badly corroded and the shoulder/plate has rotted away.
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Old 17 April 2008, 17:07   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limey Linda View Post
Started to replace the towing eyes today as they were loose and rusty. They do not go though the transom but the hull extensions accessed by deck hatches and a 2foot blind reach to get to the inside nuts. Gave up trying to loosen the nuts and got out the die grinder ( air) and a cut off wheel. Hull is about 2 cm thick at this point and they used a piece of scrap ply and no washers. Any suggestions on a suitable new backing plate. Was thinking of some 1/2 inch oak or 1/4" ally. Has now turned into an all day job.
I would suggest a stainless backing plate, aluminium would corrode against the stainless towing eye.

A 1/4" plate say around 4" square with 2 holes for the eye should be pretty solid.

Notice how effortlessly I slipped back into imperial measurements there, not easy for a youngster like me
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Old 17 April 2008, 17:17   #5
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I would suggest a stainless backing plate, aluminium would corrode against the stainless towing eye.

A 1/4" plate say around 4" square with 2 holes for the eye should be pretty solid.

Notice how effortlessly I slipped back into imperial measurements there, not easy for a youngster like me
Yea, thought of the Ally/SS problem having just drilled/ hammered a SS screw out of an Ally casting. Will use SS or white oak and penny washers.
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Old 17 April 2008, 17:40   #6
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Don't use Oak. If your transom is 20mm of solid fibreglass, you won't need anything other than the strap plate on the u-bolt. I'd take care to work out the dimensions and trim the u-bolts as necessary so that a socket set can be used to get in there and tighten the nuts properly. Use nylock nuts because, as well as being vibration proof, they keep water out of the threads.
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Old 17 April 2008, 21:11   #7
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Don't use Oak. If your transom is 20mm of solid fibreglass, you won't need anything other than the strap plate on the u-bolt. I'd take care to work out the dimensions and trim the u-bolts as necessary so that a socket set can be used to get in there and tighten the nuts properly. Use nylock nuts because, as well as being vibration proof, they keep water out of the threads.
Thanks for the input. I think I will add some ss penny washers just for extra load spreading. Good idea about trimming the thread length back. One side is is going to be a bugger as the thru. hull for the bilge pump and the fill and output hose deck fittings for the deck shower are in the way and it will all have to done blind.
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Old 18 April 2008, 03:08   #8
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Don't trim the thread if you can avoid it..

A) You've got the chance to screw up the measurement and B) You need to make good the start of the thread, which isn't as easy as it looks, with the consequent risk of cross threading if you're working blind..

...either use a deep socket or a ratchet ring spanner.
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Old 18 April 2008, 06:22   #9
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A) You've got the chance to screw up the measurement and
Shit that'll be difficult. Measure the nut, measure the transom, measure the washers and add 3mm for good luck.
Quote:
B) You need to make good the start of the thread, which isn't as easy as it looks,
Jeezus. No fekkin comment.
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Old 18 April 2008, 06:31   #10
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Actually, I've changed my mind and I'll be more constructive.

After cutting off the surplus, hold the tread in a vice using some protection, file the end flat and then chamfer the corner using a sightly upward stroke of the file to prevent any burrs forming in the thread. Easy and job done.

Some folk put a nut on the thread before sawing off and then screw it off to clean up the thread tip. I find this a waste of time and in stainless it's worse because it tends to pick up a bit.
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