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Old 27 April 2008, 08:53   #241
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I have a bit less room on the transom that you have even with the smaller motor. I need to get an aux in on the port side so still thinking on whether I can get away with a pole on the other side rather than try and squeeze in an A frame.
The pole you have made looks like just the thing, I assume there is a plate welded to the bottom and it is simply bolted through?
I still need seats but have been unable to find something at the right price that suits so far, still I have a month or two before that becomes a problem as they are simply being screwed to the deck as the last job, nothing goes through or in them apart from stores.
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Old 27 April 2008, 14:25   #242
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The pole you have made looks like just the thing, I assume there is a plate welded to the bottom and it is simply bolted through?
Yes a plate welded to the bottom, held in place by 3x m10 bolts
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Old 27 April 2008, 19:05   #243
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Are those small retainer things on the top of your console home made or bought in? I could do with something similiar on a smaller scale for mine/
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Old 28 April 2008, 05:13   #244
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I have to say Andy - very impressive looking RIB. You've done a really nice job there. Did you bend the polycarbonate screen yourself or did you get someone to do it for you?
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Old 28 April 2008, 12:37   #245
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Are those small retainer things on the top of your console home made or bought in? I could do with something similiar on a smaller scale for mine/
I assume you mean the little rails that are meant to stop things from falling off. These where "home" made at work

Just bent up some 6mm solid stainless rod and welded the legs to it in the various places. The fixings are M8 round head bolts welded on the end of the legs.
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Old 28 April 2008, 12:43   #246
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I have to say Andy - very impressive looking RIB. You've done a really nice job there. Did you bend the polycarbonate screen yourself or did you get someone to do it for you?
I bent it myself, was a little tricky getting the heat right as there was very little margin between bending heat and bubble heat if you know what I mean

I made a board up the width of the console and put a large radius at each end. I then mounted the staight screen on the board and clamped into position. When heating (I used a halogen heat lamp) I placed a piece of wood on the end of the screen, maintaining a 2" gap where the bend was going, this enabled me to heat the local area without heating the areas that I didn't want bent.

There are a few little bubbles and burnt areas on the screen, these are on the bottom and will be covered with a strip of stainless.
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Old 19 May 2008, 15:35   #247
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Andy,
can you PM me your supplier for the seat pads and stainless? looks like I am going down the route of buying boxes and getting pads and stainless built to suit.
Rather than reinvent the wheel I am hoping I can use the same suppliers you did as you seem to be happy with your results?
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Old 19 May 2008, 16:06   #248
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Rather than a cut & shut 6.5, the 6.2 is a 'stretched' 5.8.

There's two Vipermax moulds, the smaller mould used for the 5.5 - 6.2 range and the large mould for 6.5+.

The smaller mould is a narrower beam and has less freeboard, so you can't put big 'ViperMax' logos on the chine beneath the tube flange
I know this is reviving a rather old post but I asked this question of Mike from Osprey the other day and was told that the 6.2 and 6.5 are the same width and the only difference between the two was an extra 30cm at the rear. In fact that 5.8 is again the same width just shorter.

I mentioned that the specs on the website look to disagree with this and Mike said they must be wrong.
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Old 19 May 2008, 17:37   #249
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Andy,
can you PM me your supplier for the seat pads and stainless? looks like I am going down the route of buying boxes and getting pads and stainless built to suit.
Rather than reinvent the wheel I am hoping I can use the same suppliers you did as you seem to be happy with your results?
Sorry can't really help you. I wouldn't recommend the upholsterers and I have some quality issues and the stainless seat backs took a lifetime to be built buy a local fairly unreliable person, was cheap though!.....Oh the joys of boating

Have a word with Chris as to who he's using.
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Old 19 May 2008, 17:42   #250
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The smaller mould is a narrower beam and has less freeboard, so you can't put big 'ViperMax' logos on the chine beneath the tube flange
Thank F' for that.
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