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Old 25 September 2007, 15:11   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keelhauled View Post
I dont know where you get your willpower from. If it was me I would have to tape on a set of leads, hook it up to a fuel can and try it out. The suspense would kill me.
I know what you meen

I'll have the engine PDIed within the month and will try it staight after
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Old 29 September 2007, 04:43   #102
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Rain again!

I spent a bit of time in the garage yesterday and tinkered with the battery carriers. I've drilled some fixing points for some self tapers in the bottom and fixed SS studding though the frame, held in place with nuts with penny washers with rubber grommets either side. With the clamp brace at the top I was planning to be a little adventurous and make something that covered the whole top of the batterys, however this was a little OTT I thought in the end and went for simple wooden braces.

I will fix the carriers in place with self tappers into the deck, however I can't penetrate the deck any more than 20mm as the fuel tank is located underneath, so I will fix each frame with 6 CSK self tappers shutter the outside of the frames with plasticine and float a layer of Poly resin under the base of the frames. That should hold them nicely in place.

I will then flowcoat the Alloy frames and wooden braces to make it all look nice

I also spent a bit of time designing the layout of my gauges and came up with some carbon fibre to use as a dash. This is a matt finish and a little scratched. I've still to finish the dash which needs some trimming.

Any Idea's on how to coat the Carbon fibre to give a deep gloss effect and a hard wearing surface. I tried varnish and that scratches too easily, is this another job for poly resin?
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Old 29 September 2007, 05:04   #103
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if you get bored some time do me a favour and measure your boat
rear to nose end of trailer for me, curious to know if one would fit on my drive my 6.5 took the piss when it was at home
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Old 29 September 2007, 09:06   #104
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Andy

Looking good, but I think you may struggle to flowcoat the alloy.

I seem to remember reading that most resins will not stick to alloy unless its specially prepared in some way, but can't remember what that is.

I'm sure somebody with better knowledge of it will post soon.

Nasher.
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Old 29 September 2007, 09:08   #105
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zinc chromate be the stuff ali etch primer mix de etch + acid reducer 50/50


Quote:
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Andy

Looking good, but I think you may struggle to flowcoat the alloy.

I seem to remember reading that most resins will not stick to alloy unless its specially prepared in some way, but can't remember what that is.

I'm sure somebody with better knowledge of it will post soon.

Nasher.
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Old 29 September 2007, 11:39   #106
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One of the most useful, easy to use coatings I have used is Truck Bed coating, made by Duplicolor. Provides a textured finish, really tough provided you de-grease first. Available at auto parts stores in a spray can for about $6.00 over here. I like textured coating because I do not have to spend hours on surface prep. and they can be re-done/touched up and it never shows.
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Old 29 September 2007, 12:27   #107
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Perhaps I'll leave it natural finish. No one will be looking at it on an every day basis as it'll be below decks. Just a thought could I glass it over first and then flowcoat?

Anyway, I did manage some fibre glassing today and didn't do a bad job. I bought some digital scales so that I could measure exact quantitys of Poly resin out (that way it goes futher with small batches).

I'll have to finish the ends of the holes....Any suggestions on how to thicken up the gel coat into a paste? I also fitted the fuel filler moulding, but because of either a warp in the moulding or a slight curve of the console I had to use the set-up in the photo to apply pressure to all areas whilst the resin cures. However I will be left with lots of gaps between the moulding and surface of console. Is mixing gel coat into a paste and forcing its way into the gaps a plan? How would I do this?

I also plan to fibre glass a couple of layers at the back of the fuel fill moulding, just to make doubly sure it won't fall out

I also cut some impact mats for the anchor locker and fitted a U bolt to the locker too.

Plan for tomorrow is to turn my attention to finishing the fuel moulding, filing the bow locker door to fit and fitting it. Lots of flowcoating, seat bases, mounting the isolator switch and mounting a new inspection hatch door the the console to access this.

Anyway some more pics:
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Old 29 September 2007, 12:39   #108
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Looking good....

Use aerosil or cabosil to thicken up the gelcoat. Some people use talc but this usually changes the colour of the gelcoat.
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Old 29 September 2007, 12:41   #109
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Quote:
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could I glass it over first and then flowcoat?


Any suggestions on how to thicken up the gel coat into a paste?

Anyway some more pics:
Andy

The problem with Ali is most if not all resins will not stick to it, so glassing over won't be an option either.

To thicken up the gel coat you can add a filler, which is a powder made of tiny glass balls.

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Old 29 September 2007, 12:43   #110
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To thicken resin into a paste for joint filets add glass beads( actually it looks like a powder/flour)
Should be available from any FB supplier.
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