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Old 01 October 2011, 02:59   #11
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From the photo it appears that the motor has the correct height. If not there is POWER trim you can buy an after market and to solve any problems
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Old 01 October 2011, 03:28   #12
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Would be worth you and the Mrs getting some training (RYA PB2) which will teach you what those buttons are for! If as a total beginner she had the engine trimmed all the way down I'd start there. Search the forum for advice on trimming.
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Old 01 October 2011, 04:06   #13
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In addition to what Polwarts said. Using black marker, mark a line on the transom before you raise. That way you can drop it to the original position and have a referance mark when lifting. The other thing that might help you, if you have to take out bolts to move engine up, is to clap wood on the transom either side of the saddle to prevent it from moving/slipping sideways.
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Old 01 October 2011, 04:47   #14
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Thanks Polwart, yesterday was the first time we really has it out, I had asked her to trim it up a little but she was not 100% confident where the trim was and as we were not going very fast I figured it best to let her enjoy herself, I did manage to get it level at one point but it didn't make any difference.

We're not really beginners, we had a Fairline Targa 30 for many years and use a friends 10m Raider a fair bit so quite used to trimming legs and tabs on those but she was never really interested in healming big boats unless they have sails, this is very different and she loves it so will be doing her PB L2 with her friend pretty soon. I am having to learn about small boats and as this one was not rigged properly I have a fair bit to learn.

Back on topic, I've raised it up which has left an inch between the transom and the bracket, do I need to support this or will the 4 bolts be enough?

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Old 01 October 2011, 05:56   #15
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Hi Thomas, that looks better, just about write, it may be a fraction high, try it before you do any permanant work on the transom, what i would do is cut a piece of hard wood to go between engine bracket and transom, temporaraly fixed with the dredded silicon, a nice firm fit that way it will support the engine weight, you obviously know the principles of trimming, so now its just practice, good luck regards Mark
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Old 01 October 2011, 07:22   #16
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The spray is definitely the engine being too low, my Humber did it at any speed unless trimmed well out, you got a "rooster tail" of water out the stern, just trimmed out until it disappears. The engine was a DIY rig by the first owner and I think it was an inch or two lower than it should have been.

In some ways I actually preferred having the engine a bit low and trimming out, the Osprey is set "correctly" and when there is no weight in the back of the boat (and me in the front) it ventilates too easily on turns for my liking.
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Old 01 October 2011, 08:58   #17
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Steven, do you trim down for tight turns?
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Old 01 October 2011, 09:20   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skippermarky View Post
Hi Thomas, that looks better, just about write, it may be a fraction high,
Still looks to low to me!
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Old 01 October 2011, 11:23   #19
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Thomas; you can have the wife try this:

Run at a given throttle seeting (something near flat out, but not crazy-scary-fast.) Note the speed on GPS. Have the wife trim the motor out in half-second bursts without changing throttle, and see what happens to speed. Keep this up until the motor is trimmed up high enough to start slipping a bit. Drop it back down a touch, and you'll have figured out what the effects of trim are.

My normal throttle up is to nail the throttle open until the boat climbs out of the hole and begins to plane, then I trim up about a third or so while reducing throtttle to get to the speed I want. I then adjust trim to get the ride I want over swell or chop. Should note that my prop usually starts to slip when trimmed about 2/3 to 3/4 up when on plane.

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Old 01 October 2011, 12:53   #20
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