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Old 23 April 2012, 17:41   #21
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How does one man satisfy the whole of Europe with Osprey hulls and still have time to do his other grp work?
A little go a long way?
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Old 23 April 2012, 17:47   #22
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I'd be tempted to take some deck up above it personally. Then I could have a poke around and see how bad it is.

After that I'd cut out the bad and make a mould over the hole, gel coat up to it and repair from deck side.

Dosnt have to be a big hole. I have a friend who's a gynaecologist and he can decorate his hall through his letterbox.

D
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Old 23 April 2012, 17:52   #23
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Originally Posted by starnetman2001 View Post
Dosnt have to be a big hole. I have a friend who's a gynaecologist and he can decorate his hall through his letterbox.

D
Thats a bit pervy for Polwart, Mr Rennet and others .... the rest of us are all right .. but those guys have twitchy sphincters ... there .. back on track
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Old 24 April 2012, 00:53   #24
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Baggen,

Did you drill the transom hole up and right through into the void? If you did you might be getting the water that will always be there in small amounts. I think inspection hatches are now fitted in the deck as standard but I had to fit one to my VM have a look. Was surprised at the amount of in there - and my boat lives inside a garage. Your boat looks like it has spent some time afloat. Only get traces of water now.

Richard
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Old 24 April 2012, 16:43   #25
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Yes, we did drill the small hole to control that the "step" wasn't filled with water and to help the process. Our plan is to fill it up all the way from the hole to the big hole. about 30 cm.

We installed an inspection hatch as well last year because we wanted to repair the damage from above and to remove the water in the hull.

Yes, it is in the water from April to October/November with a break in July to polish the tubes and to clean it.
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Old 25 April 2012, 14:03   #26
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Hi Baggen,

I spoke to Mike today and he confirmed that he would look at the pictures tonight and advise what he thought would be the best option...

He did say that if you could get the boat shipped to Hull on a trailer he could collect it to perform a full repair.

However to give you some ideas..

- Chines are fitted at the third layup. So there should be two layers of glass before the wood is then laminated to the hull.

- There is a product used for sealing ponds that you could paint onto the damp wood that you can then easily glass onto, the product would soak into the wood effectively sealing it.

Something like this I suppose...

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it might be worth trying this and then doind a repair again to see if this works?

Chris
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Old 25 April 2012, 15:32   #27
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Thats a great idea, didnt know that existed. Thank you!!
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Old 26 April 2012, 17:37   #28
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Hi Baggen

This was the full reply that Mike Whitham sent to me today...

Hello Chris,

Instructions on how to repair damaged hull are as follows;

Endeavour to dry the damp plywood as much as possible with a heat gun, being careful not to damage the gelcoat.

Apply a coat of G4 Pond Sealer.After 24 hours, repeat this process then leave to dry for another 24 hours.

Apply Crystic Bonding Paste(90-78pa) filling the damaged area to just below surface of the hull, using a spatulla or spreader.
This product requires a catalyst.(MEKP50 or equivalent) at 2% volume.If the repair is deep, you may need more than
one application,allowing each layer to cure before applying the next.

Once you have filled the repair to the correct level, once this has set, you can buff it smooth(ish).also the surrounding area will require buffing to allow the fibreglass to stick.

Before applying the fibreglass clean the area with Acetone.

Mask out the area,ensuring that the masking overlaps the buffed area.

Using an appropriate Polyester Resin & Catalyst (MEKP50-2%) apply ,firstly a fibreglass tissue then 2 layers of 450 gramme chopped strand mat & to finish, another tissue,try to avoid overlapping the masking.

Allow to cure for 24 hours.

Remove the masking & buff smooth.

To finish off, you will need to apply a TOPCOAT, using the same ratio catalyst as before.

Your GRP supplier should be able to supply you with a suitable pigmented Topcoat.
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Old 28 April 2012, 05:11   #29
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Mike
as allways atrue gent such a helpfull guy

Oh and bloody highly skilled to hoot
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Old 28 April 2012, 08:06   #30
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Useful information here! One question though, what is "fibreglass tissue", never used that one, as usually first layers has been 300G/m2 CSM.
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