New expensive RIB or old cheap speedboat?

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Hard to tell how old that Humber is I would get the serial number off the hull and ring up Humber, and ring a Johnson/ evinrude dealer with the serial number from the outboard. Looks like a nice package, although I don't like the way the engine remotes are mounted. As JW rightly says theres loads on restoring tubes on here, search for, cleaning tubes, traffic film remover, 303, and rib shine.
Is that 30 knots or 30mph?

Alex

[BogMonster]

Thanks as you say, loads of info on tubes

With 2 of us on it we were doing about 30mph yesterday according to my hand held GPS, but that was whacking into some pretty choppy waves and with a ~20kt headwind, I am sure it would give more in calmer conditions so probably about 30kt then I guess, we didn't really have any length of time at full power because of the sea state and the owner said one thing you really don't want to do is for the prop to come out of the water at full power and then bite again still at full power... I can see the wisdom in that

Don't know much about it, but it felt to me like the engine wasn't putting its power into the water if you know what I mean, it revved very freely when you touched the throttle and I reckon if you firewalled the throttle from a standing start you'd lose any passengers off the stern if they weren't holding on!! so I wonder if a different prop would improve top speed, acceleration off the mark was impressive but seemed to peak earlier than I would expect. What would a typical top speed be with a 115hp on a 5.8?

anyway I haven't bought it yet so perhaps a bit early to start worrying about that, gotta get his expectations of price and my available funds in the same ballpark first

[jwalker]

The performance is in the correct ball court.

In the well at the stern, there is a lever type rubber bung. Empty the well, flick the lever straight and pull the bung. You may need to wriggle it to get it to move. My Destroyer never let any water into the hull in the five years I owned it but I've heard of a Destroyer where the sikaflex sealing around the trunk bailer allowed water to gradually seep into the transom and onward into the hull. Check it because the transom plywood could be wet.

Some folk will tell you that you can't avoid water in the hull. Pish is my response to that. If there's water there's a hole somewhere.

For the first couple of years of it's life, my Destroyer had a positive pressure inside the hull and each time I popped the bung the catalyst could be smelled as the air skooshed out.

Oh yeh, applying power as you land is generally a good idea...but that's another thread....

[Searider]

Bit older than I thought (owner thinks 2000) but looks ok to me and having been out in it this morning the Grin Factor is certainly there


To tell the age, if it's newer than 1998 it should have a 14 digit hull identification number. The last 4 digits give you the date of manufacture and model year thus:


GB AAA BBBBB CDEE

GB is the country code

AAA is the manufacturers code

BBBBB is the boatbuilders serial number for the boat. Can be letters and numbers

C is the month of manufacture - A=January, B=February etc

D is the year of manufacture 9 would be 1999, 2 would be 2002 etc

EE is the model year 99 = 1999, 03 2002etc.

However this only applies to vessels sold or put into service within the EU since 16th June 1998.

It does not apply to commercial craft and I don't think it applies to the Falkland Islands.

RIB manufacturers were notoriously poor at complying with this regulation when it came in.

Regards

[BogMonster]

Thanks - I can find out for sure anyway because I know that it came down at the same time as an almost identical one that belongs to somebody I know - both were brand new - so I am going to call him today and see when he got his one which will be the same age as this (though now sold - he now has the Rigid Raider shown in the photo above)

[ADS]

Originally Posted by Searider

To tell the age, if it's newer than 1998 it should have a 14 digit hull identification number. The last 4 digits give you the date of manufacture and model year thus:


GB AAA BBBBB CDEE

GB is the country code

AAA is the manufacturers code

BBBBB is the boatbuilders serial number for the boat. Can be letters and numbers

C is the month of manufacture - A=January, B=February etc

D is the year of manufacture 9 would be 1999, 2 would be 2002 etc

EE is the model year 99 = 1999, 03 2002etc.

However this only applies to vessels sold or put into service within the EU since 16th June 1998.

It does not apply to commercial craft and I don't think it applies to the Falkland Islands.

RIB manufacturers were notoriously poor at complying with this regulation when it came in.

Regards

JK, could the above be included as a feature, if Duncan doesn't mind?

Alex