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Old 06 July 2008, 04:29   #21
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looking superb!!
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Old 06 July 2008, 05:49   #22
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thanks guys, im dead chuffed i did what i did now what with the weather today!
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Old 09 July 2008, 04:29   #23
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Well boys and girls went out last night in langstone harbour, pretty choppy as you can imagine! - some fairly sizeable rollers actually coming in through the harbour mouth which was quite fun actually

The only set back was down to my own stupidity, (I'm going to get ripped in too for this im sure ) I've rigged the sterring cable the wrong way round, so turning left at the wheel actaully turns the boat right and vice versa - very hard to get your head around! Im amazed I didnt crash the subaru on the way home! -

SO my next questions is can I rig the cable through the helm the other way does anyone know please? I'm buggered if Im taking the engine off again just so I can move the steering cable, I think the reason I did it was becasue it was quite long and one side was harder to get in as it fouled the tube even when deflated and there not much flex - such a school boy error!

I went out really for 2 reasons,
1. to help a friend move his sailing boat to another mooring - (which amazingly we did without too much grief with current steering issue!)
2. FOr me to experience the Sr5, it certainly retains the sr4 characteristics in a amazing way just a lot bigger/sure footed, really like it - I want a 90 or bigger now tho, I gave it a little blip just briefly in the water ski area just for testing

Couple of pics to follow, looks better in the water
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Old 09 July 2008, 04:43   #24
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Don't know about switching cable sides on the helm but you should be able to remove the cable from the engine, slacken the big tilt tube nuts and draw the tilt tube through far enough to put the cable in the other side of the motor.(corrosion on threads depending of course).


I bet you're still grinning
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Old 09 July 2008, 05:00   #25
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Cheers NOS, I didnt know you could get the actual tube out like you say corrosion permitting
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Old 09 July 2008, 05:11   #26
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Looking good

Quote:
Originally Posted by ollyit View Post
The only set back was down to my own stupidity, (I'm going to get ripped in too for this im sure ) I've rigged the sterring cable the wrong way round, so turning left at the wheel actaully turns the boat right and vice versa - very hard to get your head around! Im amazed I didnt crash the subaru on the way home! -

SO my next questions is can I rig the cable through the helm the other way does anyone know please? I'm buggered if Im taking the engine off again just so I can move the steering cable, I think the reason I did it was becasue it was quite long and one side was harder to get in as it fouled the tube even when deflated and there not much flex - such a school boy error!
I did exactly the same thing when i rigged mine. It didnt even occur to me to check what way it would go!!! Luckily I was prepared for somthing to go wrong on the first launch so had my tool kit with me. It was just a matter of swapping the cable sides as Nos says.
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Old 09 July 2008, 05:13   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ollyit View Post
Cheers NOS, I didnt know you could get the actual tube out like you say corrosion permitting
Looks good-that 60 is almost as big physically as my 85!

You don't have to remove the tube itself. If you've got enough thread sticking out on the port side you might not even need to do what's below.
(might be teaching you to suck eggs here but...)
Wire brush then grease/oil the outside of all the threads before you try to move anything.

Remove the cable from the tilt pivot tube, back the big nyloc nut on the starboard side of the tilt tube off til it's flush with the end of the tube.

At this point if it's undone without having to use 2 spanners you'll want to put a grease gun on the tilt tube grease nipples.

Jack the engine up gently from underneath the skeg to take a bit of weight off the tilt pivot tube.Do up the port side nut in a similar way you would when tapping a thread-one turn then back off half a turn to allow any rust to drop out rather than jamming up the threads.
Just bolt your steering back on the other side then
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Old 09 July 2008, 05:24   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ollyit View Post
The only set back was down to my own stupidity, (I'm going to get ripped in too for this im sure ) I've rigged the sterring cable the wrong way round, so turning left at the wheel actaully turns the boat right and vice versa - very hard to get your head around!
Good anti theft device that, any thief would never get it out the harbour
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Old 09 July 2008, 06:10   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
Looks good-that 60 is almost as big physically as my 85!

You don't have to remove the tube itself. If you've got enough thread sticking out on the port side you might not even need to do what's below.
(might be teaching you to suck eggs here but...)
Wire brush then grease/oil the outside of all the threads before you try to move anything.

Remove the cable from the tilt pivot tube, back the big nyloc nut on the starboard side of the tilt tube off til it's flush with the end of the tube.

At this point if it's undone without having to use 2 spanners you'll want to put a grease gun on the tilt tube grease nipples.

Jack the engine up gently from underneath the skeg to take a bit of weight off the tilt pivot tube.Do up the port side nut in a similar way you would when tapping a thread-one turn then back off half a turn to allow any rust to drop out rather than jamming up the threads.
Just bolt your steering back on the other side then
Thanks NOS, I'll print this out and try to do it like you say, I'll swot up on the yamaha owners manual tonight also - yeah I reckon the whole 50-90 yamaha 3 cylinder range are blatently the same physical size, or at least the cowl hoods are anyway !
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Old 09 July 2008, 10:15   #30
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you can usually just thread the cable through the steering box the other way - may be easier, but quite messy with the grease!
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