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Old 04 September 2017, 06:16   #11
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Thanks Jeff, will do.

Once holes are plugged then I sand deck, acetone clean & apply flocoat...is it that simple or have I missed something here? Aha....


1 - how much material do I need to remove from existing flocoat deck, am I just getting a good key for adhesion? (I will be using the anti slip flocoat)

2 - Do I use ordinary masking tape or do I need to mask off where the sponsons are glued to deck with something a bit heavier duty?

thanks
when i did mine i removed the seat bases positioned the new and drew round them then prepped the area down to the original glassfiber drilled the new holes filled the old when i was happy i sanded the filled holes then cleaned with acetone, set the new bases on sika or similar this is the hard part lining it up for the holes, i suppose you could drill through after setting on the glue but i didn't want to contaminate the sealer so i pre-drilled to get all the crap away or you could put some knitting needles in each corner and feed over them that way it's straight on the holes, wish i thought of that at the time but haho.
bed the base down then screw down dip each screw in sika to form a seal, when it's gone off i just nipped each screw/bolt up.
then i masked up inside and out with good masking tape flow coated and peeled off the tape before it set to keep a clean edge.
note i did all my floor again with flowcoat only because the old was white and i wanted grey.
i let my tubes down too and tied down made it easy to work and covered them in old sheets.
others may differ but i did exactly the same as the boat manufacturer did and mine where ali bases for shock mitigation seats never moved and were solid and still are boat now got a new owner he's had it three years and not been back to me.
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Old 04 September 2017, 09:28   #12
eze
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Hi Jeff,

Going to do mine similar to you but will not take it back to the grp.

My Method

Remove all controls & cables ect. Unscrew and carefully unseal console. Clean & plug existing holes with 5mm wood plugs & gorilla glue. Clean deck with 60 grit, acetone clean area twice. Mark out & mask footprint for console & jockey seat, mask tube areas, now flow-coat the deck area (only mix enough for 20-30 mins) Remove all masking tape. Total deck area to be coated is 4m2.




I assume that one coat will be sufficient?
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Old 04 September 2017, 10:16   #13
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with 60 grit i assume on a grinder it will take the original flowcoat off and to be fair thats what you need for around the glued area to make sure it's sound flow coat isn't that thick, when i did mine i was told to go right back so there is less risk of delamination and also flowcoat has wax in it you won't get a good adhesion on your new coat, flow coat is a one coat system and the wax comes to the surface when cured well thats what cures it by keeping the air away from the gelcoat which thats what flowcoat is with 10 %wax in
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Old 05 September 2017, 11:47   #14
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Quote:
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with 60 grit i assume on a grinder it will take the original flowcoat off and to be fair thats what you need for around the glued area to make sure it's sound flow coat isn't that thick, when i did mine i was told to go right back so there is less risk of delamination and also flowcoat has wax in it you won't get a good adhesion on your new coat, flow coat is a one coat system and the wax comes to the surface when cured well thats what cures it by keeping the air away from the gelcoat which thats what flowcoat is with 10 %wax in
Hi Jeff,

I was thinking about doing job with a palm sander but will now use flapper style discs on a 4.5" grinder. Obviously I shall start with a less aggressive grit to see how I get on. One coat it is

thanks
eze
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Old 05 September 2017, 13:25   #15
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Flow coat with grit is very aggressive in its own right so it's like two discs acting against each other the best disc I found and that lasts is the 3 m 60 grit forget the name of them they are woven with big gaps cris cross so they don't get blocked cleans the area very fast, just don't drop the grinder it'll make a mess of your tubes. It's an interesting project you have post some pics up as you go and any tips you might learn.
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Old 05 September 2017, 14:50   #16
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Quote:
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Flow coat with grit is very aggressive in its own right so it's like two discs acting against each other the best disc I found and that lasts is the 3 m 60 grit forget the name of them they are woven with big gaps cris cross so they don't get blocked cleans the area very fast, just don't drop the grinder it'll make a mess of your tubes. It's an interesting project you have post some pics up as you go and any tips you might learn.
Evening Jeff,

I have just ordered a few 80 & 120 grit flap discs for my grinder. Tbh a DAS orbital buffer MAY be better but that equates to another 100-200 outlay that I feel I can better use elsewhere in the project. I come from a sheet metal work background albeit many years ago so I shall take care here for sure.
Slowly, I am getting together all the bits and pieces so I can carry out the works in October if weather allows. You have been very helpful Jeff & saved me lots of potential errors. All the time I have been amending my 'battle plan' due to your input I thank you for that.
I shall post photos of complete project stage by stage... tis the least I can do.

The next stage will be rigging & positioning of electronics...but that is for another day.

Regards

eze
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Old 12 October 2017, 11:14   #17
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Just a quick update on the project;


Console removed, deck sanded, cleaned then gel coat applied...no problems so far.


Beaded poly flow coat applied next day.... all good.


Today;


Total effing nightmare.....I must have used acetone instead of catalyst to cure as surface finish is still as wet as a willy in a brothel.


So tomorrow will be scraping off beaded flow coat then re-applying with catalyst this time.


Oh well...shit happens and if that is the worst to happen then I will be happy, but what a fecking tit!!!
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Old 12 October 2017, 11:58   #18
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I used hex head coach screws instead of pozi head screws
Coach screws aren't any good, too much shank, not enough thread, plus they're tapered, much better fixing with a parallel thread pan head self tapper.
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Old 12 October 2017, 12:22   #19
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Coach screws aren't any good, too much shank, not enough thread, plus they're tapered, much better fixing with a parallel thread pan head self tapper.
Totally disagree the thread is more aggressive and bites further into plywood with the hex head they are far easer to do up especially if using on the internal flange of seat bases, posidrive are ok but easily slip out and distort,stainless is quite soft in comparison to mild steel that's why some stainless bolts are hard to undo because the thread peaks get stretched, Allen key heads are far better as an alternative

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=st...FL71Tw2K2t12M:
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Old 12 October 2017, 12:38   #20
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Totally disagree the thread is more aggressive and bites further into plywood

Plywood??? The main fixing point should be the glass, not the core...
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