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Old 04 January 2007, 23:31   #11
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Transom repair: As long as you have the front and back of the transom, you can try this:
http://www.seawolfindustries.com/seacast.html

Don't know about the floor.

jky
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Old 05 January 2007, 11:07   #12
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Country: Norway
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Hmm... that looks interesting. Anyone got any experience with this? Seems very easy. (to easy?) I will definately try to get more info on this.
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Old 05 January 2007, 12:34   #13
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Not sure what they used, but here's the story:

A friend of mine bought a 20'-ish Avon (I think) RIB off Craigslist a year or so ago. After about a month, they noticed that the motor was moving relative to the tubes. Closer inspection showed some crack at the transom corners, so they took it to a fiberglass shop. Turns out the wood inside had rotted away, leaving the motor pretty much supported only by the glas layup.

The shop cut the top of the transom off, removed all traces of wood, did some kind of bracing at the sides, then poured in something like this stuff (This was a while back, so I don't recall details), then re-glassed and gel-coated the top. Essentially made the transom a solid piece of whatever material this cures to.

End result was a rock-solid transom, and a wallet that wass about $5K lighter. Still, I think they're ahead of the game (they got the boat at an absolute steal of a price.)

Might want to call some fiberglass shops or boat repair in your area,and ask how they would effect repairs of that type.

Luck;

jky

Edit to add the reglassing part, which I forgot.
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Old 06 January 2007, 07:01   #14
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Country: Other
Town: Christiansted.V.I.
Boat name: Froggy
Make: Avon SeaRider
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Engine: Johnson 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watchemrocks! View Post
You guys sure have some monster tiger sharks!
Tell me about it! In another post I was describing the choice to risk leaving a Wahoo on the gaff until it could be subdued and risk attracting an unwelcome guest or jerking it full of life into the boat! Art is achieving a fine line between the two.

I dealt with a dealer in Annapolis, as I said and tagged onto a Coastie order. The A frame was of single tube design, bolted to the transom with a fairly heavy plate at the apex for mounting gear. About a year after I got it down here I was charging along the bounding mane and the tube flex just above the transom mounting plates resulted in a failure of both tubes which rotated the damn thing forward and like to drove me through the console. I was lucky it hit me in the head...the hardest part you know.

I contacted the dealer who took a "none of our business" attitude and then tried Avon. Talk about the sound of a tree falling in the forest when no one is around....silence ruled. What really irritated me was that I didn't threaten them or anyone else but I questioned the engineering that had gone into this frame and suggested that it might be a good idea if they looked into it given my failure. I sent them pictures and the whole nine yards but nothing.

That being said, the 4.7 is a tough piece of work. I suspect that the quote from the dealer included some leasure aftermarket frame as the gov. frame would have likely added huge extra dollars to the boat. In retrospect I wish I had been given that option! I just assumed (ass out of u and me) that I would get a gov. frame on a gov. boat. Oops!

I haul my boat after every use and truck it up the mountain to my house. I suspect that in this climate where moisture is going to bake off or out of anything, rot is unlikely. (Possibly I should give the transom a termite spray) UV is our enemy and even though I usually keep a piece of crap boat cover on the tubes, I am still amazed at how the material has held up.

Where was it in N.C. that you are?

tomas
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Old 06 January 2007, 15:47   #15
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Now I have removed most of the "wood" in the transom. Not one single bit of it was dry! To those who still have plywood in their boat. Be sure to seal all holes with something you know works. My transom was a mess! One thing is for sure, I am not going to use one single bit of wood when I rebuild this one. I will try to borrow a camera tomorrow and post some pics of a gutted Searider. To bad my own camera has died...
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Old 06 January 2007, 20:25   #16
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I'm starting to get nervous. I have holes drilled in my transom for the engine mount, depth sounder, A-Frame, etc. While I never dreamed the raw surface of the borings could do me in, better believe I'm going to be tapping and inspecting my own transom tomorrow.

Another good reason, I say to myself, to communicate on this forum.

Good luck on your repairs in Norway!

Tomas
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Old 07 January 2007, 04:31   #17
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Thanks...
You should even check the holes around the elephant trunks. Water leaked trough here too. Not a good sign....
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Old 07 January 2007, 09:52   #18
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Got some pictures today. I was hoping I did not have to cut to far out in the sides of the transom, but I was not that lucky. Had to cut out the corner to get out the last bit of ply. Now it is only a little ply left in the bow. I will rebuild the transom before taking on the floor arrangement. Just to make shure it won´t flex to much.
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Old 07 January 2007, 09:56   #19
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Ouch..,.that's one hell of a job.

Keep us posted with more piccies of how the rebuild goes, what materials you decide to use etc.

And good luck with it

Neil
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Old 07 January 2007, 10:13   #20
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I still don't understand why they make the transom out of marine ply. In this day and age there have got to be so many synthetic options that don't react to the water. We have had to deal with water ingress on both of our boats and it's amazing how even dealers simply drill giant holes through the transom and half ass seal it with some silicone. On our latest boat we stripped everything off the transom drilled everything out and sealed and glassed all the holes. Then redrilled holes sealing again around bolts. It's amazing, even the slightest imperfection in sealing the transom, including those darn elephant trunks, and within a few months or years the water ingress is enough to start some flexing.
That searider rebuild looks nicely on its way M125. Good luck with the transom!
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