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Old 18 November 2003, 17:45   #91
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: D Hollins
Make: pacific 38
Length: 10m +
Engine: Twin 212 hp Diesel
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another view, didnt drop it Brian! I didnt like the new colour, but I have to admit it looks better. This photo doesnt show the true colour due to bad lighting in our yard. I seem to remember counting the screws and we came to the amount of over 2000!

Just bought a cordless drill for the next one!
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Old 18 November 2003, 18:15   #92
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Boat name: April Lass
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Hope she will go into Halmatic as its an insurance job after being rammed by a yacht. And if they don't, Nev you might have another one to do.

Lifting the console out the way is cheating ! there is at least a weeks work playing with that wiring.

pete
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Old 30 November 2003, 17:22   #93
Seb
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Sternpowr

Looking for some advice re. the sternpowr outdrive on my P22...

1st sea trial since ive been working on her today but there seems to be some vibrations in the crankshaft/leg...any ideas?

I havent serviced the actual leg as im a beginner to dieseld/outdrives but could it need an oil change?

Any tips or suggestions as to what it could be?

(it has to come out of the water this week anyway to rebuild the prop that i ruined on some 10m of submerged piping today so any work can be done then)

Cheers,

SEB
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Old 30 November 2003, 19:14   #94
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Seb, hmm. Changing the oil will be a good idea if you don't know when it was last changed but that will not stop the vibration. Was it caused by damaging the prop ? and was it present when you bought the boat / sea trialed it ?

Did the drive take a knock ? causing the problem ?

Mis-alinment of the engine/gearbox and stern drive is possible, as is worn engine mountings. But try the simple things first before looking at these sort of problems. Best guess its the prop if it wasn't there previously.

Pete
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Old 30 November 2003, 19:25   #95
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Boat name: D Hollins
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Seb, yes changing the oil will be a very good idea if you dont know when it was last done. Very importantly too is the intermediate assembly which is under the back hatch. This needs to have its oil checked frequently and the level screw is below the hatch which needs a hex 'allen' type tool to undo it.

The drive leg has a level plug on the side and gets checked out of the water.

Also remember that the leg needs to be down when in drive, if its up a bit , it will vibrate quite a bit as it twists the universal joints under the rubber gaiter. - oh and these joints need lubricated with a greasegun aswell. The joys of boating!
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Old 01 December 2003, 09:10   #96
Seb
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Sternpowr

Cheers for that guys- a great help!

Nev, you say that the leg must be right down on its blocks when in drive- does this mean that its not designed to be used as a trimming aid?

If so, this may be the problem. The vibrations were only apparent when the leg was trimmed out in a following sea.

Also, ill try the 2 oil changes in the leg. Any recommendations as to what oil i should use?

Cheers,

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Old 01 December 2003, 09:43   #97
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Seb mine vibrates when she is trimmed up to far as well, but I don't normally need to trim this high. Indeed trimming down is normally needed to help the boat on to the plane with a heavy load. Once going, trimming out a little so the prop is driving horizontal is all that is required, (although the exact position is guesswork because you can't see the drive).

Think the RN boats have a plate which says don't run out of water for more than five minutes or with the trim up.

Once she has had the oils changed and prop repaired just chuck her back in the water with the stern drive horizontal and drive her, she will be fine. These are big heavy ribs. They take alot of weight to upset the balance but also take forever to get on the plane. Part of the price you pay for a very seaworthy boat running on the red stuff instead of petrol.




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Old 01 December 2003, 12:13   #98
Seb
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P22

Thanks again pete!

2 more things you may be able to help me with...?

Is there a nak to getting the prop off? Ive taken the end cone off but it does not simply slide off like i assumed it would. Ive tryed a rubber mallet but with no luck. Any ideas?

Also, once on the plane, the boat runs down on starboard side.

The little 'fin' beneath the cavitatiion plate is directly in line with the keel. Is it offset on yours as i was thinking that this may be the cause? This seems to be stuck solid also!

Cheers,

SEB
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Old 01 December 2003, 12:39   #99
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Seb, the oil used in the leg is hypoid ep 90 or equivilant. The drive doesnt have to be all the way down, but you dont get that much tilt with it before it will vibrate and damage it. Generally the vibrations will remind you to put it down.

Also the oil in the intermediate drive assembly is the same.

With regards to getting the prop off, if you have taken the cone off, the tab locking plate will be off aswell. All you can do is gently knock it with a rubber faced mallot. Try tapping it all round, front and back. You can probably hit it quite hard on the back face of the hub, then gently on the front, near the root of the blades. If it still doesnt come off you can put a small flywheel type puller on the shaft but most of these props have a rubber sanwich in the hub and that might give if too much pressure is put on....... I remember someone once putting his engine in to reverse with the spinner off and that did the job!
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Old 01 December 2003, 12:44   #100
Seb
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Prop

Sorry guys, any ideas what the standard prop for my boat would be/suggestions...?

Cant see any markings on it at all.

Only problem is that im not quite sure what size the engine is. Think it may have been 'tweeked' as it does 27/8 kts.

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