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Old 26 September 2016, 13:31   #11
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One of my rear pods comes off and it's held on by 4 of these
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Old 26 September 2016, 14:02   #12
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Have you tried taking the screws out to see if it's rotten and lift the seats re-stick down and screw down with coach bolts ( better grip) than screws. When I took mine out to fit shock seats I got the screws out took a while then I had to drift the seats up with wedges after going round with a multi tool stuck as fast as just with the sikaflex. For your back seat why not make a rail system so they can go anywhere.
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Old 26 September 2016, 14:28   #13
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Mick - they look interesting. Where did you purchase?

Jeff - not done nothing yet. As I've said, the deck could be fine. I'm just thinking out loud regarding what I might discover when I remove the seats.
Wouldn't coach bolts need to be fitted from underneath? With a washer and nut on?
What I call a coach bolt has a domed head, a full thread, and no point at the tip?
I like the idea of a rail. My initial thoughts are that this could be done with the screw and sikaflex method. Save cutting in to the deck.
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Old 26 September 2016, 14:39   #14
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Chris - I've spoke to Mike. He's up for doing the work and at a very reasonable price! He agrees that to fit the bolts properly he'd need to cut access holes but reckons any ply edges exposed when cutting, and all faces and edges of ply used to repair the holes would be fully sealed.
It looks like I'd be best doing a couple of weekends in work and transferring those funds to Mike - He certainly knows his stuff!
apart from the fact that Mike will do the job properly, if he does find anything else to be concerned about you can be sure he'll sort it out for you, even better if a bit if overtime will cover it
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Old 26 September 2016, 14:50   #15
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Yea understand concerns and time will tell as for coach bolts they are hex head large thread seascrew sell them Easy to tighten than screws without damage to the slot or Phillips head the rail system would work well same method of fixing no deck holes no glassing up get the proper sika. I am no expert but when I did mine with shock seats I changed the bases to aluminium to get the right height stuck mine down with sika and large screws 18 on each tape round to stop spillage of sika onto the deck screw down leave 24 hours ( summer) solid job even with shock seats in hinesight I would have used coach bolts I found the screw heads got damaged easy ( stainless soft) but I kept my pilot hole small so the screw was a force fit to prevent leaks but coated with sika to seal and lubricate the thread whilst screwing in.

http://www.nuts4bolts.com/dp/17549

This type cheers
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Old 26 September 2016, 15:19   #16
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Chris - I found Mike to be a top bloke. I don't think anything would be a problem to him. If I go ahead with him, he suggested coming in to his workshop when he cuts the access holes to see for myself how it's put together and what condition things are in.

Jeff - do you have a link to the rails you've used? I take it its in two parts? With a rail on the deck and something fixed to the seat base to attach with?
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Old 26 September 2016, 16:10   #17
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Chris - I found Mike to be a top bloke. I don't think anything would be a problem to him. If I go ahead with him, he suggested coming in to his workshop when he cuts the access holes to see for myself how it's put together and what condition things are in.
Mike supplied and fitted the console/jockey seats and anchor locker to my Searider, he did a cracking job, he also pointed me in the right direction to get the tubes fitted, stainless made and fitted, and the upholstery sorted, he's a top bloke
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Old 26 September 2016, 16:20   #18
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Haven't used the rail system myself but seen it used on some manufacturers I think it's mainly for work boat applications I would recommend speaking to Humber when I spoke to them I found them very helpful in your case you would get a lot of info on the boat just by mentioning you would like a system to move your rear seats around worth a try cheers
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Old 27 September 2016, 12:11   #19
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Deck remedial work

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjj216 View Post
Mick - they look interesting. Where did you purchase?

Jeff - not done nothing yet. As I've said, the deck could be fine. I'm just thinking out loud regarding what I might discover when I remove the seats.
Wouldn't coach bolts need to be fitted from underneath? With a washer and nut on?
What I call a coach bolt has a domed head, a full thread, and no point at the tip?
I like the idea of a rail. My initial thoughts are that this could be done with the screw and sikaflex method. Save cutting in to the deck.

They've been on the boat since it was built but I've seen them here http://m.seascrew.com
The hook bit is on the floor and there not obtrusive when the pod is removed and they stand a hammering when the pod is sat on and you won't make a mess of your floor just self tappers and sikaflex
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Old 27 September 2016, 12:15   #20
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Removeable Jockeys - How???

A few ideas on there. I'm sure Hunton used to make a table post that was basically a blind stainless hole screwed in from top. The inside of the blind hole was threaded. So effectively it was a big head mounted from the top. It was impressive but of polished perfection.

Any idea how thick your deck is and if it is wet or dry? Some exploratory holes might suffice
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