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Old 04 November 2007, 01:23   #1
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Burst Seam

G'day All
Well just made the jump into rib land with a secondhand gemini 505.
Took it for a spin yesterday and loved it.....but next day after a few hours sat on the trailer in the hot Australian sun the tube burst on the cone......see attached

I guess lots of new things for me to learn but was wondering if anyone can help with a few questions
1. how easy is this to repair...should I get a pro to do it?
2. this particular seam doesnt have any internal reinforcement tape (but looking inside the other seams do). is this just a manufacturing defect or is this how the make the final closure of the tube?
3. should i be worried - is this indicative on state/quality of rest of tubes - they all look visually fine and it is only 4 years old.
4. the valves do not appear to have safety release on them...should I get them installed?

Thanks for any guidance you can give.....
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Old 04 November 2007, 03:04   #2
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Deflate the rest of the boat before you burst the baffles too.

I won't comment on how to repair as the tube builders here are far more competent than I'll ever be but if your tubes get hot enough to burst I'd definitely get some pressure release valves.

Leafield A6 (google it) pressure release valves will do the job.
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Old 04 November 2007, 03:09   #3
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That looks like quite an easy fix but you will need compatible glue. Before you do anything fit overpressure release valves for safety. Also this time of year in Australia you should try to protect your rib from the sun while its on the trailer and manually deflate tubes to prevent this happening again. You could consider fitting wear patches to reinforce seams.
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Old 04 November 2007, 04:32   #4
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Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
Deflate the rest of the boat before you burst the baffles too.

I won't comment on how to repair as the tube builders here are far more competent than I'll ever be but if your tubes get hot enough to burst I'd definitely get some pressure release valves.

Leafield A6 (google it) pressure release valves will do the job.
thanks have deflated the other tubes and will get the release valves fitted. there arent many ribs in australia (mostly aluminium runabouts) maybe the sun and heat is one reason
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Old 04 November 2007, 04:36   #5
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That looks like quite an easy fix but you will need compatible glue. Before you do anything fit overpressure release valves for safety. Also this time of year in Australia you should try to protect your rib from the sun while its on the trailer and manually deflate tubes to prevent this happening again. You could consider fitting wear patches to reinforce seams.
the rib was actually under its cover but was still baked silly....will need to find a garage for it.

regarding the repair are there any tricks to ensuring a good seal..seems a bit tricky getting the last bit together of the cone.

good idea ref the wear patches will look into it. thanks for your reply
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Old 04 November 2007, 04:43   #6
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This looks like a job for Falklands Man
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Old 04 November 2007, 05:55   #7
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This looks like a job for Falklands Man
Nah,

He's only experienced in deep freeze work. This job sounds too easy.
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Old 04 November 2007, 06:27   #8
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thanks have deflated the other tubes and will get the release valves fitted. there arent many ribs in australia (mostly aluminium runabouts) maybe the sun and heat is one reason
I'm at 17 degrees N of the equater and have a ten year old Avon SeaRider. I'd like to say I always keep the boat covered and out of the sun but it just ain't so. My tubes are slack in the early morning and tight in the afternoon with the sun expanding the air. I don't have pressure release valves and don't have a gauge to measure bars of pressure in the tubes. What I do have is ten year old tubes that have seen more UV and heat in two weeks than a tube would see at 40 N. in a year and they are nothing if not perfect!

Properly constructed Hypalon tubes will provide a completely acceptable duty cycle in the tropics, period. Possibly you were too diligent in pumping your tubes or possibly you had a poorly glued joint. Hopefully you'll get some good advice on the re-glue job and not experience another blow-out.
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Old 04 November 2007, 06:31   #9
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This looks like a job for Falklands Man
He has't been on here for a while. But their again it is the summer in his part of the world. He's probably out in bermuda shorts having a few barbies
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Old 04 November 2007, 12:38   #10
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Sorry to say, Leafield A6 pressure relief valves will not do the job quite well because this valve opens at only 2.4 PSI and the recommended working presure of any PVC & Hypalon inflatable boat tube is 3.5 PSI or 0.25 Bar.

With 2.4 PSI your dinghy boat type, not a rib type will perform not as it's intended best working presure performance. See if there is a 3.0 or 3.5 PSI automatic presure relief valve or use your normal air valve and buy a presure manometer. (This option will cost far less than to change all valves) Most inflatable manometers available on the market reads from 0 to 14 PSI or 1.0 Bar.

If you have a Rib type, will be Ok as only small portion of the tubes touches the water and having less presure won't have any direct benefit in performance as traditional inflatables would.

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