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Old 27 October 2015, 16:25   #21
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Country: USA
Town: San Pedro, CA
Boat name: CATSASS
Make: Avon Searider SR4
Length: 4m +
Engine: 1986 30HP Mariner
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Tried to use the webbing after trimming, burning new holes and bedding them. Put the boat in the water and the old gas tank screw holes were leaking water fast. I hadn't filled them yet as they didn't appear to go through the deck into the flooding area of the hull. Clearly they did. When I got the boat back out of the water, I noticed the webbing had ripped. Lucky it didn't break and drop the boat! I think this may have been from when they pulled it out of the water, since the bridle they used had the bow lower than the front, so when they lifted it out of the water, the flooding hull was holding the max capacity of water. It was slowly leaking out of the two small hole in the bow instead of rushing out of the back.

I've managed to find 316 stainless 10M eye bolts, and am going to install them today. Do I need to bed them with 4200 or should I just screw them in? Should I use anti seize or? It should be noted that when I was having trouble removing the plastic bolt blanks, I squirted WD-40 into the holes, which will make bedding with 4200 difficult I think. I noticed that inside the hole, the wood core is visible until it hits the nut below, which means that water and or oil from the WD will have saturated that, so not sure how to approach installing the eyebolts to ensure that they can be removed if required and/or I can keep water out. The plastic bolts were not sealed, so obviously no attempt was made to seal the core in there at all in the first place.
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Old 28 October 2015, 04:58   #22
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if i were doing it i would spray the threads with silicon spray then put a silicon sealant at the eye end to seal the top of the thread to prevent water entering.
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Old 28 October 2015, 18:16   #23
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Country: USA
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M10 eye bolts won't work.

Just so that people searching this in the future get the right info, straight up m10 eye bolts readily available online (at least that will ship to the USA) won't work on the Avon. All seem to have thread lengths that are 17-18mm. The ones I received are 316 stainless and 17mm shank. The best I could get was a sloppy one to two threads engaging the bolt. It tightens down, but i cannot trust them. I used a micrometer today and the base of the nut is just over an inch or 27mm. So to have the eyebolt completely engage the threads you need a longer shank. There is still a good 1/4" or more past the base of the nut. Bloody hell this has been frustrating. There is literally zero info regarding the specs of these lift points. Brilliant idea but a totally shitty explanation of their fitment.
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Old 28 October 2015, 18:57   #24
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So can you get a 27mm stainless threaded rod in M10 size and an M10 eye nut.

(if 20mm was enough you can certainly get a M10 20mm Grub screw (that seems MASSIVE to me for a grub! A4 Marine Grade STAINLESS STEEL Grub Screws Cup Point Grub Screws M6 M8 M10 | eBay)

Threaded Bar Studding Threaded BAR / ROD A4-316 Stainless Steel from M4 upto M20 | eBay

A4 316 Marine grade stainless steel lifting female eye nut bolt M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 | eBay

Although these guys do really long ones:
A4 316 Marine grade stainless steel lifting eye bolt longshank nut M6 M8 M10 M12 | eBay

Must be possible to cut it down.
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Old 28 October 2015, 21:25   #25
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Country: USA
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Got four of these in 10mm although the eye hole is tiny compared to the M10x17mm eyebolts I tried, and cut them down today. Managed to get two in, but the ones on the port side are a huge PITA. The plastic bolts would not come out so I tried the traditional steel version of the bolt removal tool, which dug a hole so far down and then quit working. Then I tried drilling it out, but was worried about the damaging the threads, so tried very carefully, then tried to dig out the rest with a small flathead, that didn't work well and I pushed most of the bits into the bolt hole, so now I'm royally fucked, especially since I think I damaged the threads after all. At $30 per bolt that's a bad mistake and if they are bad once I manage to figure out how to get the remaining plastic out, I will have to tap the bolt and try to find a bigger eyebolt. I hope all of my posts help someone else. AFAIC you should just drill new holes and leave the stupid lifting points alone. At least if they try they know what eyebolts to get.
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Old 29 October 2015, 03:47   #26
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just found this Avon 4 point lifting kit 199.00 Ron hale marine UK if of any help might be worth contacting.
on line shop Avon spares & accessories


cheers
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Old 29 October 2015, 04:40   #27
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As far as removing the remains is concerned, have you considered filing cutting teeth onto the end of a piece of steel tubing & welding a 'T' handle at the other end to allow you to twist it? File the profile of the teeth to look something like this which is a spot weld cutting tool.
Laser 1780 Spot Weld Cutter: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
The cutter is double ended & is screwed onto the end of the shaft so when one set of teeth is worn you just turn it around.
Youtube of one in action here:
To remove bits from deep blind holes I use a length of hollow metal tube taped into the nozzle (I use the crevice tool attachment) of a vacuum cleaner (mine's a Numatic Henry). Just sucks any bits - which includes water, swarf etc - out & leaves a clean hole.
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Old 29 October 2015, 10:47   #28
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Country: USA
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MMSI: 338206221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintman View Post
As far as removing the remains is concerned, have you considered filing cutting teeth onto the end of a piece of steel tubing & welding a 'T' handle at the other end to allow you to twist it? File the profile of the teeth to look something like this which is a spot weld cutting tool.
Laser 1780 Spot Weld Cutter: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
The cutter is double ended & is screwed onto the end of the shaft so when one set of teeth is worn you just turn it around.
Youtube of one in action here:
To remove bits from deep blind holes I use a length of hollow metal tube taped into the nozzle (I use the crevice tool attachment) of a vacuum cleaner (mine's a Numatic Henry). Just sucks any bits - which includes water, swarf etc - out & leaves a clean hole.
Problem is there is a nut embedded in that hole that I need to screw the bolt into. I don't want to damage it any worse than i already have. I'm going to take a soldering gun to the plastic today to try and cut it up with that. And pick up some forceps if possible from harbor freight to pluck up the bits. Needle nose won't work. Already tried. I've removed everything down to the bolt, but a lot of plastic was jammed through the bolt threads to plug the rest of the hole.
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Old 29 October 2015, 18:38   #29
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Country: USA
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Posts: 40
Finally got it all done. Bought the Sea Dog 10mm eyebolts and cut them down. They worked perfectly well in the starboard side. Getting the plastic bolts out took a lot of work. Used a drill, hammer and tiny flathead, picks, carving tools, a soldering iron, forceps and finally had to use a 10mm tap set to clean out the threads. Then I used canned air to pick the little pieces out that dropped into and through the hole of the nut since I cut the bolts to go a good 1/4" past the bottom of the nut. What a huge PITA, but at least it's done.

So for those reading this in anticipation of the job, I would say that if your plastic bolts don't readily come out, forget it. Just drill through the transom and bow to install eyes there. If you can get them out, you need M10 316 stainless eyebolts at least 13mm (1/2") ID eye hole and with a bolt length of at MINIMUM 25mm (1"). If you break the plastic bolts inside, use a drill CAREFULLY, then get ready for a ton of work, then finish with a 10mm tap. Good luck.
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Old 30 October 2015, 05:27   #30
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That was a LOT of work! Well done!
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