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22 November 2011, 20:19
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#1
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Bangor
Boat name: Lencraft 4.8m
Make: Lencraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: DT55HP Suzuki
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 469
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A Frame design for a 4.8m RIB
Hi
I get a fair bit of SS fabrication work done and am very friendly with the them, they will rattle me out an A Frame (I'll buy the metal!).
Any handily made tidy looking designs about? A pic would be useful if anyone can point me in the right direction. They are making me a jockey seat frame out of 1" 316 SS, I'm guessing that would be too flimsy for an A Frame, any opinions?
(Primarily want one cos they look cool but will stick nav lights on in case I end up working on my DT55 in the Irish Sea in the dark!)
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22 November 2011, 21:53
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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1" OD would be ok for a braced double frame, or 2" OD for a chunky single section also looks good.
Make sure you design it tall enough to allow enough room to remove the outboard lid with the motor trimmed down, if you plan on doing any at-sea maintenance.
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22 November 2011, 21:56
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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22 November 2011, 21:59
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 196
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Also make sure your nav lights are high enough not to be obscured by the bow if the boat, console or people stood driving etc.
On a lot of boats you can't see the nav lights when they are coming towards you half on the plane with the bow in the air and people stood up. Kind of defeats the point of having lights in the first place of people can't see you coming towards them!
Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
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Freelance skipper, RYA Powerboat Trainer and Advanced Examiner
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22 November 2011, 22:32
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#5
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Bangor
Boat name: Lencraft 4.8m
Make: Lencraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: DT55HP Suzuki
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 469
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cheers chaps - good tips there!
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23 November 2011, 02:30
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#6
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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If the guys you're working with can do some bending, you can flare the bottom of the A-frame out over the tubes. That will put your lights further out to the sides, and give you more room to lean over the transom, should you need to replace or clear a prop while on the water.
jky
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23 November 2011, 07:18
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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This is the double one I had for my 4.8m Tornado.
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23 November 2011, 07:19
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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From the stern with electrics fitted....
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23 November 2011, 09:06
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,252
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I had one made up to my drawing & I'm very happy with the result
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Member of the Ribeye supporters club!!!
Member of Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Member of SR4 club
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23 November 2011, 09:24
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#10
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Bangor
Boat name: Lencraft 4.8m
Make: Lencraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: DT55HP Suzuki
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 469
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like all of those! Decisons decisons! I am calling in to see them later about some paid work so will print a few pics out and see what is easiest for them. I like the ways yours just mounts on the transom Jizm as avoids any deck issues.
Do you tow skiers etc from the tow ring on yours Nick?
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23 November 2011, 09:37
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomKat
Do you tow skiers etc from the tow ring on yours Nick?
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Yes I can ski from this no problem & I have towed other boats from it too!
I have not tried it but recon you could pick the whole boat up by the Aframe it is that well built
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Member of the Ribeye supporters club!!!
Member of Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Member of SR4 club
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23 November 2011, 09:51
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#12
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Bangor
Boat name: Lencraft 4.8m
Make: Lencraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: DT55HP Suzuki
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 469
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cool - looks pretty solidly made!
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23 November 2011, 10:29
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
If the guys you're working with can do some bending, you can flare the bottom of the A-frame out over the tubes. That will put your lights further out to the sides, and give you more room to lean over the transom, should you need to replace or clear a prop while on the water.
jky
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...and allows space for an Aux!
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23 November 2011, 10:50
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#14
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Bangor
Boat name: Lencraft 4.8m
Make: Lencraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: DT55HP Suzuki
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 469
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forgot about the aux! flared is the way to go!
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