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Old 03 June 2012, 03:38   #31
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None of my seams look like they are welded, the all look to be glued (overlapped), no evidence of any welds anywhere on the boat.

Definitely don't look like this:
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Old 04 June 2012, 07:52   #32
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Here are some pics of the seams:

















Here's a shot of the rubber dust produced from sanding off old glue...


And you can see back right of the shot my progress with removing the glue from the tubes. I have now completed one whole side of the tubes. Still more sanding to go but getting there slowly.
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Old 04 June 2012, 10:32   #33
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I had the exact same boat, with the same seams. Mine was a 1982. It was hypalon. I dont know if i missed it in the thread, but a general consensus is that the underside color of the fabric dictates what type it is. If the inside of the fabric is black, its hypalon. If it's the same color as the outside, its usually pvc. The easiest way to tell in 2 seconds is just look at the underside of the bow dodger as it isnt attached to anything else, and on the outside it is red. My underside was black and the seams were glued, not welded. Hence, it was hypalon. I hope this helps.
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Old 04 June 2012, 16:13   #34
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I removed the glue, not the fabric...Much more work, but it leaves more material. Then I gouged the material before gluing.

Since the boat has glued seams all the way around, how do you think the glue holding the tubes together is doing since the floor and transom glued failed? That would be one of my biggest fears is blowing a seam out on the water. I guess part of it is where you boat. Here in California our seas are not always friendly.
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Old 04 June 2012, 17:17   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C
I removed the glue, not the fabric...Much more work, but it leaves more material. Then I gouged the material before gluing.
Morning Peter!

I believe that your boat is PVC and when sanded PVC doesn't produce dust it just scratches up?

Whilst removing the glue from the Hypalon it's quite hard not to take a bit of the rubber with it!

[/QUOTE]
Since the boat has glued seams all the way around, how do you think the glue holding the tubes together is doing[/QUOTE]

Not sure mate can't see inside the seams, they show no signs of weakness right now, they look to be holding up to the test of time very well. Only time will tell how long they will last.

Has anyone ever had a Hypalon tube rupture on them?

Is this something I should be overly concerned about?
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Old 04 June 2012, 18:29   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95gstnj
The easiest way to tell in 2 seconds is just look at the underside of the bow dodger as it isnt attached to anything else, and on the outside it is red. My underside was black and the seams were glued, not welded. Hence, it was hypalon. I hope this helps.
The underside of the "bow dodger" as you call it is definitely BLACK.

Thanks for the info.

Cheers.
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Old 04 June 2012, 18:51   #37
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I had the exact same boat, with the same seams. Mine was a 1982. It was hypalon.
What motor did you have on it?
Were you happy with the boat/motor combo?
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Old 05 June 2012, 08:18   #38
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I only had a 15hp on it. Definitely not enough power, but still planed. I would go for at least a 25-30 hp. my boat was rated for 40hp.
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Old 05 June 2012, 08:33   #39
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I only had a 15hp on it. Definitely not enough power, but still planed. I would go for at least a 25-30 hp. my boat was rated for 40hp.
I would like to put a 40hp on it but I'm not sure the added weight of a motor that size would be a good thing. Ultimately I want it to be a light package. A 2 cylinder 30hp could be the go. A 2 cylinder 40 would be good but most I have found are 3 cylinders.
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Old 05 June 2012, 12:04   #40
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Morning Peter!

I believe that your boat is PVC and when sanded PVC doesn't produce dust it just scratches up?

Whilst removing the glue from the Hypalon it's quite hard not to take a bit of the rubber with it!
When removing the glue I never used sand paper. I had almost no removal of material. First I softened the glue with Acetone, then used a scuffy pad to remove the glue, leaving the PVC intact. Removing material is bad, as there isn't much to begin with. It is more work, but well worth it to me.
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