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Old 01 October 2012, 14:04   #11
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Poly's Avatar
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke YAM 20 HP
MMSI: 235089819
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Originally Posted by bingosucks View Post
thats about £120 for about 30 mins work and £30 in parts ,i would say it`s a bit steep and to phone around....but hey i don`t know the prices over there

if your worried about doing it yourself ,try doing it with the marine mechanic on a saturday morning ,it is fairly easy even with our differences lol
Its about the going rate. http://www.clyde-outboard-services.c...board-services
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Old 01 October 2012, 14:21   #12
bingosucks's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: Nuneaton
Boat name: gnasher
Make: sr5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: hidea 5 yam 90
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by Poly View Post
i`m just your hands on type of fella and it looks like a good service

your right it is about the going rate ,i paid £75inc for a 5hp 4s at a local chandlery,i would expect it fogging for winter too...i`ve become fairly good mates with the mechanic now and actually enjoy the work as a hobby

i had a right nightmare with an old 9.8 merc and had to immerse myself in needles and floats etc ,thankfully my old man is an engineer who used to have a scooter

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Old 01 October 2012, 19:01   #13
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
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Originally Posted by ssobol View Post
Just press the little plunger tip at the fuel inlet to open the line and let the engine draw the fuel from the bowl.
I realize that. The statement was for others' benefit (though I will say it's a real PITA to hold the check ball in while the engine burns off the fuel in the bowls; takes quite a while.) Was thinking it may be better to leave the connector halves mated, and pull the fuel line before the connectors.

OTOH, I don't have that problem anymore, as the new engine is injected, and doesn't sit for winter (not that the last did, either.)

At higher revs it might have enough suction from the pump to pull the valve open enough to let air in.
Kind of doubt it. But worth experimenting, I suppose.

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Old 02 October 2012, 02:25   #14
m chappelow's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I would second Jky,sfirst post ,,though suppose depends where you live what climate and how long and where it's going to be stored , Not a bad idea to grease the swivell and clamp screws and wind them in & out to their full travel before storage too and re grease the prop ,, I don't like the idea of trapped drops of saltwater festering away .

I don't actually winterise my engines as such as i keep them in the workshop/ celler under the house Josef Fritzle stye,,
After Wiping all over it with an oily rag i then just gently pull/ turn the engine over a few times each month to make sure the parts don't seize up .

after a good end of season run in a tank for 20 mins or so after letting the engine run out of fuel ,
Open the carb drain screw to drain off any fuel that's left ,
dry off ,, squirt some ! not too much wd 40 over the electrics & grease up the throttle linkages .

On me old 2 strokes I used to lay the engine on its front so the cylinders at facing up , remove the plugs. & put a few drops of oil down the cylinder bores turn the engine slowly over a few times to lubricate the piston rings especially if its a 100/1 mix engine ,,then replace the plugs and store upright .
If storing in a shed I would bung up the carb /air intake with some rag ,, keep out spiders or insects .

For draining the fuel line whilst running in a tank i I disconnect the tank end and push the end of a plastic golf tee or the like to jam the valve open as long as it doesent damage the (o) ring then hang it above the engine from the washing line whilst flushing in the tank ,,
with my 4 stroke engine I can get over 20 mins running on tick over with just what's in fuel line & bulb .
Couple of my other (proper )engines that live in the celler too along side the outboards ,, though I doubt the outboards will be still around after 100 years .
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Old 10 October 2012, 15:32   #15
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Country: USA
Boat name: Classic Mark II C
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15HP Honda
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 47
OK…..So I dropped my motor off at Monmouth Marine in Neptune NJ. When I called on the phone (prior to dropping it off), they estimated a price of around $200.00 for winterizing and 30 hour servicing. I just spoke to them on the phone, and they are saying $300.00 now. The technician wasn’t available for the call, but he is calling me back later to discuss.

This seems terribly high!

As I stated earlier, it’s a 15HP 4S brand new Honda.

I would imagine that the 30 hour servicing and winterizing have some overlapping tasks.

What say you all? Am I getting hosed?
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Old 10 October 2012, 16:58   #16
Country: UK - England
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Boat name: hydradrive
Make: yamaha
Length: no boat
Engine: sterndrives
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 290
Gear oil , engine oil , a couple of squirts of fogging oil and a dash of fuel stabiliser in there running up tank . I would say an hours labour max pushing it 1 hour an half. I would say they have pulled ya paints down sorry. That's an £80 job max regards graham
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Old 10 October 2012, 18:43   #17
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Make: Ribcrafts
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Originally Posted by BuffsBoat View Post
As I stated earlier, itís a 15HP 4S brand new Honda.
Well in that case wrap it up in a duvet, give it a hot water bottle, chuck the kids out of their rooms and bring it in the house!


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