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Old 30 November 2014, 13:18   #1
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Anchor hub

At Kerny's suggestion I will post my design for an anchor hub which I poated on another forum that Kerny and I are members. It may be of some interest to some of you.


I have been fishing from my SIB on fresh water but as a friend of mine has just bought a SIB for both fresh and salt water and the fact that both whiting and cod are being caught in the Humber, I thought I had better get an anchor system sorted.

I wanted to have a hub which is easily fitted to the boat but not a permanent fixture. I needed a anchor warp guide to protect the tubes and a cleat of some kind to fix the warp. A plan hatched today which I thought I would share with you.

I found a piece of plastic in the garage which was the right size so applying a heat gun to the plastic, I was able to bend it to the shape of the tube.






Next, how to fasten the plastic in position. I drilled a hole on the inside edge, ran a braided rope to a carabina at each end in order to clip to two fittings.



The front edge now needed sorting. Two 'D' fittings were fastened to the hub with a couple of bungy chords/hooks on to the lifting handle of the boat. So now we have a pretty rigid hub plate in place.



Okay that is the hub in place so now a stainless steel bridge as a warp guide coupled with a spare cam lock cleat to hold the warp once anchored.


Fitting the hub takes only a few moments and is very compact to store when not in use.



I will have to sort the FF next which also has to be removable.

Phil
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Old 30 November 2014, 13:42   #2
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Good Idea , I would tie a stopper (fig 8) knot in the end of the wrap just in case, as it would stop at the bridge.
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Old 30 November 2014, 13:44   #3
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You are quite right Camelgas and in fact it now has a large loop which is easier to grab hold of if needed.

Phil
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Old 30 November 2014, 14:27   #4
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How are you finishing the back of all those fittings underneath the plastic plate? Any worries about them chaffing the tube?
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Old 30 November 2014, 15:02   #5
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All the bolt heads are countersunk so there is nothing sticking out and I have not put any on but I do have some sponge tape if needed.

Phil
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Old 30 November 2014, 17:54   #6
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Excellent. You should go into full production ;-)
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Old 30 November 2014, 18:49   #7
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Excellent. You should go into full production ;-)
Seconded
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Old 01 December 2014, 01:28   #8
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Very smart but a lot of trouble to go to. I have always taken a bight in the anchor line and attached it to the painter with a sheetbend. The tension is then transmitted directly through the painter to the rings on the hull designed for the purpose by the manufacturer. The free end of the anchor line then comes aboard but not under tension, so it doesn't chafe on the hull.
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Old 01 December 2014, 03:08   #9
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Doesn't the boat have two d-rings on the outside of the boat right about where the two on the inside are? I made a harness attached to those d-rings that I use a locking carabiner to attach to a bite in the anchor line. That way I have two strong failure points, so I know my boat will be there after I return from swimming around with the fishes.

Feeding the line thru the stainless front piece isn't bothersome when anchoring in shallower water? I guess a loop could be feed thru into the cleat. Another note is the type of line you are using is probably lower stretch than the more typical 3 strand of line that has lots of stretch to help keep the anchor in place.

Otherwise I always like home done projects
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Old 01 December 2014, 04:25   #10
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How are you finishing the back of all those fittings underneath the plastic plate? Any worries about them chaffing the tube?
If there were any worries about this, I'm sure a bit of thin rubber could be stuck to the reverse (or even an old PC mouse-mat depending on the size).
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