Airdeck repair advice needed

dznf0g · 07 August 2012, 21:02

I'm not sure if I'm just not using the search correctly, or it there is nothing out there but can an airdeck be patched?

I was remiss in stowing my anchor properly and it punctured my airdeck while jumping some large waves.

It is a 2007 Mercury Airdeck 340 made of PVC. The floor inflation pressure is 11 PSI. I am not sure yet if any (or how many of the vertical threads might be broken, but the tear is about 1.5 inches long.

Any advice or repair techniques. I am pretty proficient at tube repairs and accessory (glue) mounting techniques, but haven't ever done the high pressure repairs.

Thanks, in advance.

PeterM · 07 August 2012, 21:19

Have a read of this thread :

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/introdu...c-40249-5.html

Nasher patched his ( which also runs at 11psi )

So there is hope - not sure if your repair woudl be harder if its more central and the vertical threads have been damaged ?

Pete

dznf0g · 07 August 2012, 21:33

Thanks, Pete

Option #2....does anyone know if any of the hard decks from Merc will fit the 2007 Airdeck model, and where I could find a used one? I don't have much of an appetite for the price of a new Airdeck!!!!

dznf0g · 07 August 2012, 21:37

It looks like Nasher had some more difficult compounds to work with. My tear is on the flat top surface. I'll post some pics later, after I get the boat out of the water.

Locozodiac · 07 August 2012, 23:58

You can patch that air floor like any other tube, just clean well area and apply a proper diam patch that covers anchor cut and extend to at least 5 cm per side of cut if cut happens to be really extensive.

Happy Sibbing

dznf0g · 08 August 2012, 02:03

Thanks Loco:
I think I may have lucked out. It appears that the tear is inbetween the "z's" which are the through stitches.
So do I just glue like normal or I have heard of some folks stitching up the wound then applying the patch.

In examining the inside, I cant find any of the vertical through stitches which are cut...just the fabric imbedded in the skin PVC.

Peter_C · 08 August 2012, 05:17

I would try to get a patch on the inside by cutting the hole straight and inserting a patch inside. Followed up with another patch over the top.

Nasher · 08 August 2012, 07:22

Getting a patch on the inside will be impossible without cutting the cross links between the top and bottom of the deck, no matter what you do then you'll end up with a bubble in the deck in that area.
The way the cross links are bonded to the inside would also make it difficult to glue to.

It would be good to get some strips of material behind the hole if nothing else, and a few stitches wouldn't do any harm.

Then just a patch much bigger than the hole should do the trick as long as the surface is prepared really well for it to stick to.

The new 'liquid skin' type products might be worth a try under the middle of the patch too.

Nasher.

Peter_C · 08 August 2012, 14:09

I have not seen an air floor on the inside only the outside. Logic tells me it needs everything it can get to keep the patch from bubbling up under the 11 psi.

Not sure if this would be ideal...but could you stitch a small patch down, then come back over the top with a bigger patch? Or would it be better to just stitch the current rip closed?

Nasher · 08 August 2012, 14:32

Peter, sorry didn't mean anything by my reply.

You are of course correct that with 11psi everything possible needs to be done to hold the repair together.

The top and bottom of an airdeck are attached to each other by thousands of threads which hold the two a set distance apart, it's a bit like a fibrous mat glued to the underside of each layer that has been stretched apart in the middle. It means that you can't really glue anything to the inside.

I'd be tempted to stitch a small patch over the top of the repair for mechanical strength, being careful to space the stitches so as not to introduce a 'zip', then glue an oversize patch over the top to keep the air in.

As mentioned there are also some new 'liquid skin' products available that could also be used on the stitched patch.
I was given a sample of one at the Seawork show earlier this year but can't remember the brand name off hand.

Nasher.

dznf0g · 08 August 2012, 15:02

Thanks, guys, this is the kind of help I was looking for. Are there any threads with pics which might show some of the stitching techniques.
I need to look into the liquid skin....that I hadn't heard of before.
Nasher, what do you mean by "introduce a zip"?
Do you all think it would be better to stitch the wound closed, apply a small patch (or liquid skin), and overlay a large patch....OR stitch and glue a small patch, followed by a large patch.

Also, I definitely don't want much if any glue to get inside the wound, so do I slip some waxed paper inside prior to the first patch glue down? Or should I use some patch material? I want to avoid glueing any of the cross fibers. Would a layer of liquid skin accomplish the same effect under the first reinforcing patch?

As usual, thanks for the discussion and experience!

Locozodiac · 08 August 2012, 15:57

Had same issue, somebody threw a small deployed anchor on top air deck and made 2 much smaller tears than yours, glued with 2 part pvc glue 0.9 mm gauge round patches, round holds better against fabric in time/use, 1 year latter holds 12 psi pressure as if never been damaged. And have not experienced any deck balloning surrounding damaged area as one would think might future happen.

Happy Sibbing

Peter_C · 09 August 2012, 05:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nasher

Peter, sorry didn't mean anything by my reply.

Nasher.

No worries you corrected me, which needed to be done. I did not take it wrong

After all I would say we both have the same goal of helping other people when we can.

dznf0g · 10 September 2012, 21:38

Just, an update ( hate to leave threads not closed out properly). I finally got to the repair. I ordered the Weaver 2 part PVC glue. I have had really good luck with it in the past mounting of d-rings and accessories. I used one of the 5"(roughly) patches that came with the boat repair kit. I did use MEK and cleaned up the area well. I did back the tear with a piece of waxed paper to prevent glue from fouling the through threads beneath the skin.

The repair went well and I let it sit for 4 days and then just inflated to maybe a half pound. All looks good. I need to let it sit for 2 more days for the glue to reach max strength then I'll inflate to 11psi for a week. Then I'll close out the thread with a pic and either success or........?

Locozodiac · 11 September 2012, 14:37

When patch has finally glued well on top air deck, inflate to 11 psi and make a soapy test and check for any air leak, if any, you have done a perfect repairing job.

Happy Boating

Jenson · 11 September 2012, 15:28

Out of interest is it possible to remove a patch if the repair leaks?

Peter_C · 11 September 2012, 16:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jenson

Out of interest is it possible to remove a patch if the repair leaks?

Yes very easily actually. A heat gun will soften the glue, allowing the patch to be removed. Then the glue must be cleaned up with Acetone, or MEK.

Locozodiac · 11 September 2012, 20:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I need to let it sit for 2 more days for the glue to reach max strength then I'll inflate to 11psi for a week.

Air floors tends to lose top pressure very fast, need to be continuosly top infated to 11-12 psi to perform as it's best when boating, will maintain top pressure with sun, will lose more on foggy days due to low temperature and atmospheric issues. Will have my doubt if will continue to be top inflated to 11 psi after such a long time specially indoors. Would be advisable to make a full soapy test to all air floor to determine if with unspotted tiny air leaks, include air valve.

Happy Sibbing

dznf0g · 12 September 2012, 02:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

Air floors tends to lose top pressure very fast, need to be continuosly top infated to 11-12 psi to perform as it's best when boating, will maintain top pressure with sun, will lose more on foggy days due to low temperature and atmospheric issues. Will have my doubt if will continue to be top inflated to 11 psi after such a long time specially indoors. Would be advisable to make a full soapy test to all air floor to determine if with unspotted tiny air leaks, include air valve.

Happy Sibbing

Will do, thanks.

dznf0g · 12 September 2012, 15:50

Thanks, to all. I believe it was successful. NO BUBBLES at my patch seam with 11.5 PSI in the deck.