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Old 05 May 2006, 18:34   #11
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Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
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A fixed post? That's not too good Could you cut it off and u-bolt an adjustable one on there?

It actually sounds as though you could do with another trailer- the more support you can get for the transom the better, and with 2 feet overhanging the forces have to be a bit much on the rearmost point of support.

<edit. Just a thought but hypalon is probably abrasion resistant enough to bostik a couple of pieces to the transom/running surface join to stop the ratchets rubbing the gelcoat. It'd be cheaper than a new trailer or tubes and if you didn't key the gelcoat first it'd peel off easily if you wanted to remove it.
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Old 05 May 2006, 19:05   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
A fixed post? That's not too good Could you cut it off and u-bolt an adjustable one on there?

It actually sounds as though you could do with another trailer- the more support you can get for the transom the better, and with 2 feet overhanging the forces have to be a bit much on the rearmost point of support.
Just gone to get a photo to check. Think it's fixed but can't be sure. Trailers down at the boat yard & I can't see from the photo I've got here if its adjustable. Even if it can be adjusted along the box girder running front to back, it is at the very front anyway. The rear rollers are at the very end of the trailer and with the engine raised and on its rest a lot of its weight is inboard of the transom. I don't think there will be too much of a cantilever force stressing the hull. Perhaps a foot of overhang from the rearmost support. From the rear transom to tie off at the first available place on the trailer though is further. Which ever way I cut it I have to dog leg the strap around the transom bottom edge to reach the trailer and I don't see this stopping the bouncing. I reckon my RIB is right on the limit for this trailer. Having said that - well over 500 mile round trip to Loch Lomond at Easter without any trouble from the trailer. Will post a vid of the boat towing some toys when I've got time to work out how to do it.
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Old 06 May 2006, 04:47   #13
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Be careful of also stopping the boat going forward aswell. I manage to get mine to ride up the 'v' and touch the spare wheel of my car (drawbars too short, new trailer coming). At a guess there's more change of force braking quickly then pulling away. Took for ever to sort the transom dropped into the gap between rear rollers a nightmare!!

I now ratchet the boat backwards & forwards on the bow eye bolt then forward on the transom d rings.
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Old 06 May 2006, 05:10   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
I go one further and lock/chain my bow eye to the trailer too....

Of course, one of these days I'll be spotted after I forget to undo the lock before I launch...
Nos, been there done that - felt stupid.

I had put the trailer in deep enough to float the boat off without any trouble, done all the usual checks, began to let the winch out and the boat wouldn't move. after several minutes of trying to push the boat off, I finally remembered to unlock the bow eye....Doh!

Tim
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Old 10 May 2006, 16:04   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
I go one further and lock/chain my bow eye to the trailer too. It IS only a crappy spring that holds the ratchet in place and I've had one of those springs snap before.
True, the spring holds the pawl in place, but the pawl on the cog tooth is what is doing the holding. If you've ever tried to release the ratchet while its loaded, you get an idea of the force needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Pike
Nos4r2 - how do you ratchet down at the back? My RIB overhangs the trailer at the back by a couple of feet. Can't strap/ratchet straight down to the trailer. Runs from the 'D-brackets' on the transom down to the base of the transom and then diagonally back towards the trailer frame.
Don't your bunks extend beyond the transom? Ideally, you should have some form of support back there, and you can tie the rear of the boat down by going from your tow eyes to the bunks (or roller frames, or whatever you have there.)

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Old 10 May 2006, 16:19   #16
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strapping over the tubes-I tow miles and miles each and every week, always strap them down over the tubes, and tight. Not a mark on any of them thru strap marks, pad them if you worry about it. Seen a small rib and trailer turn over on the road, strapped tight down. Owner rolled it back upright with virtually no damage as the A frame saved the engine and the straps kept it on the trailer.
Secondry fixing of bow eye to the trailer-ok ratchets go but also winch straps break quite easily. Without a secondary fixing then you are relying on the rest of the straps etc to hold it. The rule with us is the boat and trailer are not towed from the waters edge until the second fixing is attached to the winch eye, after all at this stage you have no other fixings on and are probably on a sloping slipway.
Bunks-wouldnt touch 'em with a bargepole. Ok if you wanna, or indeed can, float the boat off but a lot of isolated beaches/slipways I visit will not give me the water to do that even if I wanted to.
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Old 10 May 2006, 17:27   #17
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Quote:
Don't your bunks extend beyond the transom? Ideally, you should have some form of support back there, and you can tie the rear of the boat down by going from your tow eyes to the bunks (or roller frames, or whatever you have there.)
Got no bunks on this trailer. Just the rollers. They are right at the back of the trailer but the transom still overhangs too far to fix down vertically.
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