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Old 30 July 2015, 17:23   #11
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Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
All you need are the 3 ratchet straps you already have, 1 from the bow eye to trailer, running towards the rear of the trailer, this stops the boat running forwards if you brake hard. The 2 from the transom eyes to trailer need to come towards the front of the trailer to stop the boat disappearing south when going up hills. Simples The boat is held in a triangle, can't go anywhere. If you want to be posh, you can get custom length/configuration stainless ratchet straps made up for around 20 quid each depending on spec.


Noooooooo!! utterly pointless & will do more harm than good, it brings a tear to my eye every time I see straps over tubes
same setup for me, works great with both the Revenger and the SR4

where did you get your SS ratchets made up PD? I need to get a new set for the SR4, being a tad brain dead these days I've used the set I had for another job before I remembered what they were for
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Old 30 July 2015, 18:10   #12
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same setup for me, works great with both the Revenger and the SR4



where did you get your SS ratchets made up PD? I need to get a new set for the SR4, being a tad brain dead these days I've used the set I had for another job before I remembered what they were for

Here Chris http://www.yachtropes.co.uk/dsm-products/braided-ropes
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Old 31 July 2015, 02:38   #13
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thanks Mick
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Old 31 July 2015, 03:33   #14
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I use the winch hook onto the front eye on bow plus two ratchet straps on front to bow eye, plus two ratchet straps on rear eyes, plus two ropes over the tubes but not really tight just to help stop the cover blowing about too much.

Some people make up a block for the engine or you can buy purpose built ones I think which helps secure the outboard in position, I dont but when I have towed the boat it tends not to be too far a journey, one day in future I will make something up as your suppossed to.
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Old 31 July 2015, 03:36   #15
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I do not now own a rib Had a back problem and had to give up boating for some time sold the rib and had nothing for a long time.

Now decided to build another type of boat and the question of ratchet straps came to mind.

How to secure the boat to the trailer without causing any damage to the top sides of the hull and came up with this idea and surprisingly enough it works.




Maybe some time the rib makers will get wise and come up with something similar..
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Old 31 July 2015, 04:37   #16
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Everything Pikey said and don't strap the outboard leg to the trailer. Better to strap to the transom eyes to stop it bouncing up and down and keeping your chock in place.

the only thing is the transom eyes sit very high and strapping the leg to those wont do much to stop any bobbing of the engine as its almost a straight line, the angle of the dangle is all wrong hence the going to a cross beam on the trailer so there is a positive downward force keeping the engine steady. if the boat is lashed down well and can't move the engine should be secure too.

glad i'm right not to run a strap over the tubes. aside from rubbing the tubes it just didn't seem secure enough.
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Old 31 July 2015, 07:11   #17
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the angle of the dangle is all wrong.
haha, I have that problem!
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Old 31 July 2015, 08:08   #18
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thanks Mick
and here :
6m x 35mm Stainless Steel endless RATCHET STRAP | eBay

Jeff
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Old 31 July 2015, 11:38   #19
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thanks Jeff, I've used them before, good kit, thanks for the reminder
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Old 02 August 2015, 19:35   #20
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Originally Posted by il corvo View Post
the only thing is the transom eyes sit very high and strapping the leg to those wont do much to stop any bobbing of the engine as its almost a straight line, the angle of the dangle is all wrong hence the going to a cross beam on the trailer so there is a positive downward force keeping the engine steady. if the boat is lashed down well and can't move the engine should be secure too.
I still wouldn't recommend lashing the outboard leg to the trailer, it's a bad practice IMO. Perhaps get some strong bungees stretched from one side of the lower engine bracket across the leg and back down to the other side of the lower engine bracket. This way there is always tension on the leg when raised, you simply lift the leg, place your chock in and let go. Providing your chock doesn't fall out you're ready for the road.
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