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Old 13 August 2013, 07:46   #11
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They are the tapered type of bearings.

Done them up a pinch tighter than hand tight just so it aligns up with the hole for split pin. Seem smooth enough and no play but obviously won't last with the salt.

When I need new bearings where and what should I be looking for? Suppose I could look at the numbers on the bearings them self's and order more as spares but that means taking it back apart.
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Old 14 August 2013, 04:06   #12
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Originally Posted by rossymtb View Post
When I need new bearings where and what should I be looking for? Suppose I could look at the numbers on the bearings them self's and order more as spares but that means taking it back apart.
Yes, use serial number on bearings to identify new ones. If you've just done them - they should be fine until the end of the season. Always fit a new stainless steel split pin if you decide to remove.
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Old 14 August 2013, 04:29   #13
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Taper Bearing Axial Float

Hi, to add my bit:

Taper Bearing sets need axial float so that as the bearing warms in service, it does not fail due to the high thermally induced loads.

This is normally achieved by tightening the nut until the bearing is fully seated and there is just some discernable bearing drag, then backing off by the manufacturer's specified amount (may be one or two notches on the castle nut). Read the Knott-Avonride maintenance instructions, downloadable from the web as an example.

You may find that there is a barely discernable amount of free play when rocking the wheel at 12 Oclock / 6 O clock. That's good.

The nut itself should not be tight, there is no place for a torque wrench when setting a taper bearing set.

Here are the generic instructions from the SKF website.
Wheel bearing
Single adjusting nut
While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut until there is a slight
bind and all bearing surfaces are in contact. Then back off the adjusting
nut 1/6 to 1/4 turn to the nearest locking hole, until the wheel rotates freely
with .001˝ to .010˝ end play, or clearance. Lock the nut at this position
(fig. 2).
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