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Old 02 October 2011, 06:12   #1
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Brake locked on idespension trailer

Heading out for sea gain, brilliant weather, but trip ended before even started...The right brake stuck on the trailer. Totally mine fault, i have suspected its little stiff, but planned to do the service after end of season ...grr

Its a single axle braked rollecoster, al-ko stuff on the brakes.

After some traditional banging on the wheel it loosened so much was able to move it little backwards, but locked up again when moving forwards so decided to skip the trip and make some service work on the brake. Cable moves ok, so guess it is the brake mechanism that is corroded.

Its a loooong time since done anything like this so don't even remember how it is looking inside so might have stupid questions, don't laugh...

Plan was to lift the axle little, support it and remove the wheel/rim. Then what, hope don't need to remove any bearings to work on the brakes?

Grateful for any advice!
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Old 02 October 2011, 07:25   #2
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my rollercoaster 3 has knott brakes fitted. and yes you need to undo the centre hub nut which will involve removing the outer bearing, the inner will probably stay held in place by a dust seal. the reason for this is that the drum is also the hub - one plus point is that you dont have to remove the wheel first, just the centre nut and the wheel and drum will come away together.
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Old 02 October 2011, 07:35   #3
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You'll probably find the shoes have stuck to the inside face of the drum. This often happens if you leave the handbrake on. To get to the brakes:

1. Chock the trailer and take the handbrake 'off'.

2. Loosen the wheel bolts, just a small amount, before jacking it off the floor. Probably M12? So either a 17mm or 19mm socket, as the bolt head varies depending on wheel bolt supplier. Jack the trailer up, put an axle stand or similar, under there, just in case your jack gives up on you. Then undo the bolts and take the wheel off.

3. You'll probably have a 'bearing saver' fitted too. This is a chrome, cylindrical, pressurised grease reservoir, fitted in place of a dustcap. You'll need to remove this. It's pretty easy. Use a soft faced mallet (or piece of wood between a normal hammer and the bearing saver) then give it a stern tap, rotate it ninety degrees and clout it again. Repeat until it drops out.

4. You'll then see (probably under some grease) a castellated nut, with a split pin through it. Remove the split pin. Undo the castellated nut (anti clockwise), then remove the thrust washer under that too.

5. Give the brake cable a good wiggle, sternly tap the side of the drum (at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock), to jar the shoes off the face and then pull the drum off.

6. This will then give you access to tha brake shoes to clean them and copper slip them as necessary.

Good luck Any probs, feel free to drop me a PM.

PS. As Festinghouse says - you don't actually have to remove the wheel, but sometimes it makes life easier!
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Old 02 October 2011, 11:30   #4
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Great thanks for detailed advices Festinghouse and Trailer Guy, help's a lot! I have always used the handbrake even at prolonged storage at home... now i wonder why, its on a even patio with no risk for unwanted movement. Will stop using the handbrake and use wheel stoppers just in case.

Did not have a suitable jack, so project postponed till tomorrow evening. Guess it will rain then.... Let You know how it goes. Thanks again!
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Old 06 October 2011, 13:18   #5
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Tell you guys don't need to move ten boats a day
1 big hammer, hit around the drums firmly.
2. Put vehicle in reverse and back up 10 ft
3 . Put vehicle in forward
4. Repeat a couple of times
5. Smile and drive off

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Old 06 October 2011, 13:21   #6
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One more thing common sense don't leave it with the handbrake on!!! Chock it.

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Old 06 October 2011, 13:52   #7
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I think you need to read the posts more closely!
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Old 08 October 2011, 11:05   #8
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Had not time untill today to continue. Wheel was easy to remove, thanks to well greased nuts. Here a picture so Yes, 'bearing saver'. Removed som grease to get a better look inside. It was well greased, no water so that part looking OK.


I don't fully understand how the bearing saver is attached. I gave it a hit or two(wood between) but not that much happened...and if its stuck not so easy to get grip on the chrome surface? Should i turn(or try to turn...) it clockwise or anticlockwise? I have sledge hammer so maybe should go up in size...?
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Old 08 October 2011, 12:13   #9
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bearing saver is knocked into place as its leading edges are tapered. keep working your way around it knocking on the sides carefully and you should start to see it work its way out.
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Old 08 October 2011, 12:24   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazb View Post
Tell you guys don't need to move ten boats a day
1 big hammer, hit around the drums firmly.
2. Put vehicle in reverse and back up 10 ft
3 . Put vehicle in forward
4. Repeat a couple of times
5. Smile and drive off

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Absolutely, if a big hammer doesn't work then hitch up to a big 4x4 and apply lots of violence

Of course, if they didn't use caravan parts instead used parts that could be immersed in saltwater we wouldn't have this problem, but then trailer guy would have any work.

Pete
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Old 08 October 2011, 15:42   #11
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but then trailer guy would have any work.

Pete

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Old 09 October 2011, 04:42   #12
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Thanks again. Using the rubber hammer it was only 5 minutes an of it was. Rest of the dismantle was no issue, starting to remember doing this on my Triumph MKII 2000 some years ago.

But as You can see on the pictures, this time it was worth doing the way Trailer Guy suggested, no boating today either .

Need to start to check for part numbers....If its AL-KO will get the parts from here, i think they are commonly used on caravans?
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Old 09 October 2011, 05:37   #13
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If its AL-KO will get the parts from here, i think they are commonly used on caravans?
They're Alko, yes sir. They look like type 2051. If you have a look around the outer edge of the brake back plate there'll be a 4 digit number stamped in to it (my suspicion is 2051), something like 2051, 2361 etc. This gives you the brake type. i.e. 2051 = 200mm drum diameter and 51mm width shoe. 2361 = 230mm drum and 61mm wide shoe etc. You get the idea, I'm sure!

Your cables should be stainless steel (if they have a red outer sheath this denotes stainless, black means mild steel) - they should be stainless as standard from Indespension, but whilst it's stripped it'd be worth lubricating these at the same time, just to make sure they're still moving ok.

You should be paying around 50.00 ish for an axle set, for a single axle trailer (two pairs of shoes and the retaining springs).
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Old 09 October 2011, 05:56   #14
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Trailer guy - yer a good man to have around! Thanx for helping guys out like this.
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Old 09 October 2011, 08:01   #15
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Ah, go on away with you, you'll make me blush!

What's the point in having a head full of this stuff and not share it?!

Hopefully, if I can impart a bit of it, it'll make room in my head for remembering things like the missus' birthday, or which daughter's meant to be going to Guides and when...
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Old 09 October 2011, 16:10   #16
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Trailer guy - yer a good man to have around! Thanx for helping guys out like this.
I second that one!

Cables moving ok but their black, think its time to do an upgrade to ss.. The positive thing
is I learned something and the bearings seams to be in good conditions.
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Old 12 October 2011, 09:57   #17
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"Wheel was easy to remove, thanks to well greased nuts."

Errr, were your wheel nuts greased? That is a definite NO-NO. There should be plenty of friction to stop them undoing whilst rolling down the road. So clean off the grease. If you doubt this go to any branch of Kwik-Fit, local car dealers, etc.

Arthur
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Old 12 October 2011, 10:11   #18
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Errr, were your wheel nuts greased? That is a definite NO-NO.
Depends on if you subscribe to the "thread friction holds the nut on" school or the "bolt stretch and face friction holds the nut on" school.

I, personally, grease up the lug studs before putting the nuts on. Seen too many people with rusted-on flat tires.

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Old 12 October 2011, 10:27   #19
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May I be so cheeky (sorry Trailer Guy) to suggest that you replace the wheel bearings while you have the hubs off. You will be doing so soon if you immerse your hub in sea water! Salt water gets into the grease and destroys the bearings.
cheers
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Old 12 October 2011, 14:14   #20
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So the moral of the story don't grease your nuts stick to nipples only. Sounds like a plan
A mate of mine recently admitted to being addicted to brake fluid. When I quizzed him on it
he reckoned he could stop any time…..

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