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Old 17 October 2013, 17:59   #61
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Why would you need one. Our boats are extremly easy to get on a plane otherwise it's just more stuff to drag through water
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Old 17 October 2013, 18:06   #62
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Better fuel economy and lower minimum planing speed from what I hear.
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Old 17 October 2013, 18:14   #63
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I think they come together. Sort of. Lower planing speed means higher fuel economy for boats that have harder time getting on plane needing otherwise more speed consequently fuel. We are in totally different boat especially with comparatively light weight engine. Pun intended. At higher speed it will add drag decreasing speed and efficiency especially without power trim since it may not be positioned perfectly because angle of attack can only be adjusted at discreet interval.
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Old 21 October 2013, 08:56   #64
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I went for a second ride with the motor this weekend. It splashes a good amount at high speeds and some backwash happens over the transom into the boat. Is this standard for a FC-470? I assume a permatrim hydrofoil would reduce this.

I also manage to break off a grease nipple. Are they replaceable? Can I get a generic one or are they specific to make/brand?

Lastly there's a sticker that says my motor has to be bolted to the transom. Is this necessary/required? If so, do I bolt it straight through the transom?
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Old 21 October 2013, 11:43   #65
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How low is anti-cavitation plate in relation to hull/keel. What trim settings are you riding with.

Most likely you have to raise motor considerably depending on shaft length for good performance/economy/reduced splashing. That would most likely mean bolting it to transom. Clamps won't allow it to go high enough. You might be able to do that without building riser if it's short enough. But for example in my case (22" leg) top bolt would basically line up with edge of transom. My motor doesn't have height adjustment holes like larger outboards do.


Hydrofoil will not address this issue at all. Your gear case rides way too low.
Anti-cavitation plate sits way under water at this time. Deflector plate - one above flange that connects gear case to lower leg is likely under water too or to low to offset big bow wave created by low hanging gear case/leg cutting water. Water creeps up transom and leg splashes everywhere. Low riding gear case creates immense drag that slows you down and wastes fuel.

They ask you to bolt it down for safety. Far less likely to loose it. IMHO hydrofoil and clamps only is asking for trouble. Intent is to create lifting force. It it does then I wouldn't trust the clamps necessarily. Let alone hydrofoil would be fixing non-existing problem.

I imagine those are standard nipples. Particularly since they fit standard grease gun. Back stump out. I've sheared them off on couple occasions on my trucks. Japaneses and domestic. Replaced them just fine with what's available in parts store. They cost few pennies.
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Old 21 October 2013, 11:44   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F470 View Post
I went for a second ride with the motor this weekend. It splashes a good amount at high speeds and some backwash happens over the transom into the boat. Is this standard for a FC-470? I assume a permatrim hydrofoil would reduce this.
If it's at speed, probably not. The splashing is likely coming off the leading edge of the LU. That's not an area covered by the foil (the foil does a couple of things, as I understand it: isolates air and prop for less aeration, and redirects upward water flow back down, which is where the lift comes from. It's not acting as a wing, as far as I know.)

Reducing splashing generally means raising the motor on the transom, as long as it doesn't cause aeration (usually in tight turns.) Some people who can't raise the motor have fitted panels to block spray from coming over the transom.


Quote:
I also manage to break off a grease nipple. Are they replaceable? Can I get a generic one or are they specific to make/brand?
I assume they come in 2 flavors, Imperial and metric, though I have no evidence to back that up. They are simply threaded in in most cases. Should be able to find some at a local auto parts place, and as I recall they're cheap enough that if they don't fit, it won't hurt much.


Quote:
Lastly there's a sticker that says my motor has to be bolted to the transom. Is this necessary/required? If so, do I bolt it straight through the transom?
Probably not, but make sure any clamp screws are *very* secure. Many people also tether the motor to the boat with a stainless cable just in case the motor decides to jump ship.

If you do decide to bolt it, drill through slightly oversize, epoxy line (or glass, or otherwise seal) the bored holes to seal them up, and use caulk or PU sealant on the nuts and bolts at the inner and outer joins. Transom rot is not an easy fix.

jky
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Old 21 October 2013, 13:19   #67
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Thanks for all the info! I took the motor off yesterday to sand & paint. I will take measurements and report back once it's back on.
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Old 11 November 2013, 22:53   #68
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Here's a photo. I didn't have time to measure but it does appear that the cavity plate is a couple inches too low. What do I do about this? The fuel economy also seems poor.
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Old 12 November 2013, 11:31   #69
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Nice pain job. Is it?
My interim solution is pictured above. Doubt there many other economical options. Economy is naturally not a strongest point of 2 stroke exacerbated greatly by low dragging gear case.
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Old 12 November 2013, 11:38   #70
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That looks like more than "a couple of inches" too low. The pic looks like the splash plate (a couple of inches above the actual anti-ventilation plate) is below the keel line. Puts the LU way too deep, which increases drag by a significant amount, and puts the fat part in the water which explains your splash problem...

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