School a newbie on outboard maintenance

[jyasaki]

Okay; I'm a few beers into the evening, but...

Part 1: change the brace to a bracket, and the quote function will work. Add" "You can remove the LU with or without the prop installed.

Part 2: clarification: Remove whatever locks the prop nut in place (split/cotter pin, tab washer), block prop with wood between Anti vent plate and prop blade, unscrew prop nut. Pull off: washer, any spacer that is present, prop, hub adaptor (if present), thrust washer. Done.

Okay. Bedtime. Or maybe more beer (since I'm already home.)

jky

[F470]

There is a company called CruzTools who make various kits for japanese motorcycles, snowmobiles and personal watercraft. The kit I got was a metric kit with just the bare essentials for less weight. I ended up getting the SpeedKit. I figured I could augment it with a few things if necessary. I just got them yesterday and my first impression is that they are quality tools. The Speedkit includes:

Wrenches: 14mm & 17mm, 10mm & 12mm
2 in one spark plug socket: 16MM and 18MM
Tire Pressure Gauge: not needed.
Pliers:140MM slip joint
Bits: 8MM driver; T20 x T25 Star, T27 x T30 star
Hex Wrenches: 3MM, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm
Zip pouch.

Originally Posted by jyasaki

I'll disagree with Spartacus; You aren't going to be doing massive work on the motor at sea, just a bit of tinkering.

A 3/8" ratchet set will be fine, and by checking all the bolts you can reach, you can probably dispense with 3/4 of the sockets. Screwdrivers, and adjustable wrench, vise grips, prop wrench (assuming you carry a spare prop) and 2 x 4, spare prop nut kit, small hammer (works well on unruly passengers, too) and a small multi-meter. Lots of tape (electrical, duct, and silicone) and zip ties. Some spare electrical wire in case you need to kludge together a circuit or bypass a switch, and some stainless wire (safety wire is ideal (for holding stuff out of the way or wiring things together.) Spare plugs, fuel filter, fuses, fluids (I keep a partial quart of motor oil and a small container of hydraulic fluid for steering.)

In truth, it all depends on a) what you think might happen, b) what you think you can repair at sea, and c) how much room you have to carry all that crap.

jky

[F470]

Thank you!

I ended up just replacing the impeller and gaskets on the lower unit without actually disassembling the prop housing. Should I have? Is it necessary to regularly take those parts of and grease/service them? I also changed the gear oil. The old oil looked like this:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Okay; I'm a few beers into the evening, but...

Part 1: change the brace to a bracket, and the quote function will work. Add" "You can remove the LU with or without the prop installed.

Part 2: clarification: Remove whatever locks the prop nut in place (split/cotter pin, tab washer), block prop with wood between Anti vent plate and prop blade, unscrew prop nut. Pull off: washer, any spacer that is present, prop, hub adaptor (if present), thrust washer. Done.

Okay. Bedtime. Or maybe more beer (since I'm already home.)

jky

[A1an]

You've got water getting in to that box.

[F470]

Thats what I thought. I put new seals on the two filler holes and tightened them up as hard as I could. Anywhere else it could enter?

[A1an]

It can get in past the prop shaft and drive shaft oil seals if they are weak.

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by F470

I ended up just replacing the impeller and gaskets on the lower unit without actually disassembling the prop housing. Should I have?

I assume you're talking about the gearcase? No, don't take that apart. Special tools, bunch of seals needed, all that crap.

Is it necessary to regularly take those parts of and grease/service them?

No, all that stuff inside is lubricated by the gear oil. As long as it remains water tight, it should be OK. Not really user serviceable in any case (at least as far as I know. Some folks may be more adventurous than I am, though.)

jky

Oh, yeah: Now that you've got gaskets on the plugs, do a short interval oil change on the lower unit. If you're still getting water in, you'll probably need a shop to work on wherever it's leaking from.