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Old 08 September 2015, 15:12   #11
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As far as how deep you need to go to launch, maybe rollers on the front third of the support area? , get that thing out on the water and get us a report with pics.
Or, on the front half of the bunks, HDPE sheets screwed down (with countersunk stainless screws).
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Old 08 September 2015, 16:16   #12
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I have a trailer I hate that sits the boat up a good 6-8" higher than normal bunk trailers and I need to get my f250 rear tires just to the water. How deep are you getting?
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Old 08 September 2015, 22:51   #13
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Richard,
My first boat was a SIB, and I had a gauge that was real cheap. I couldn't find anything better. I finally stopped using it, and just pumped up and hit the tube until it sounded like a drum. I guess I have just been lucky? I don't remember what my tubes are made of on my new boat, but I don't believe they are Hypalon or PVC. The are made by Wing. Any suggestions on a gauge?

Andre,
Hadn't really planned on doing anything with the console. What would I replace it with, tiller steering?

Tom,
So maybe they are just low, and may not have a hole somewhere?

Jason, JKY,
I concur that ideally I would like to have all of the boat on the trailer. When I took delivery it was hanging out even further. I could lift it off the hitch with one hand.

Jason,
I have only launched/retrieved it once, but my E350 tires were in the water, but not up to the wheel.

I am going to take a day off this week and get the DMV work done and work on the trailer a little more too. I hope to be able to take it out this upcoming weekend.
Thanks for everyone's input.
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Old 09 September 2015, 08:34   #14
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Richard,

Andre,
Hadn't really planned on doing anything with the console. What would I replace it with, tiller steering?

Thanks for everyone's input.
"Tiller steering" good joke

I am yet to see a nice and practical US made console. so far the ones on the Willard's are typical US military consoles cos most Willard ribs in private hands if not all are ex-military. A nice wide beam rib but a narrow console with little space for the navigation equipment
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Old 09 September 2015, 09:15   #15
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aahh, got it.
The previous owner seemed to do a pretty good job with it.
It has a vhf, stereo, navigation screen, switches, and gauges.
Since I have only owned it a few days, no plans to change anything at this time.
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Old 09 September 2015, 09:24   #16
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aahh, got it.
The previous owner seemed to do a pretty good job with it.
It has a vhf, stereo, navigation screen, switches, and gauges.
Since I have only owned it a few days, no plans to change anything at this time.
Excellent, but keep the pictures coming
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Old 09 September 2015, 11:32   #17
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Or, on the front half of the bunks, HDPE sheets screwed down (with countersunk stainless screws).
Yup. That'll work as well.

The main problem with that (and my other suggestion) is getting friction to hold the boat in place when recovering. If you crank the boat forward into position, no problem; if you power load and tow forward to get the boat to stay, you may have problems (I do this occasionally, especially on busy slips with water movement and limited/no help.)

jky
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Old 09 September 2015, 11:35   #18
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Richard,
My first boat was a SIB, and I had a gauge that was real cheap. I couldn't find anything better. I finally stopped using it, and just pumped up and hit the tube until it sounded like a drum. I guess I have just been lucky? I don't remember what my tubes are made of on my new boat, but I don't believe they are Hypalon or PVC. The are made by Wing. Any suggestions on a gauge?
If the boat is equipped with overpressure valves for each chamber, you can utilize those instead. However, you will need to use a pull-spring type weight gauge to ensure all of your OPVs pop at the correct pressure... kinda like portable luggage scales?

Then simply just inflate the boat until the OPV leaks and you'll be at the correct pressure.

If your tubes are Wing, they are welded polyurethane. Air retention should be quite good with less than 5% leakdown over 24 hours. Be sure to correct for barometer and pressure (-4 mb per -1c temp , -1 mb per -1 mb barometer). Spray the tubes with soapy water if you suspect a leak. Focus on seams first, high wear areas second.
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Old 09 September 2015, 11:42   #19
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Jky,
Just loaded it once solo, and I cranked it all the way up, and drove up the ramp, and it stayed in place.
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Old 09 September 2015, 11:56   #20
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Richard,
All chambers have the OPVs.
Aren't they supposed to release at 7-9, but recommended is around 3-3.5?
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