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Old 09 July 2014, 12:54   #51
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Originally Posted by F470 View Post
Thanks! I like the idea of 0.75" increments. 0.5" seems small. You mentioned +0.25". Would you really want the AV to be slightly above the the hull on a Zodiac?
As a matter of experiment why not. You got bigger motor/prop.

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The ones in the CAD model are 5/16". Too small? I use larger ones for the ones that don't hold the motor down as I am limited by what can pass through the motor mount holes.
I think motor mounting bolts on Zuk are at least M10. At least mine are. 5/16 or M8 are somewhat undersized unless you use more of them
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Old 09 July 2014, 13:23   #52
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Determining Shaft length on a Zodiac FC470

True. It is an experiment.
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Old 09 July 2014, 15:57   #53
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Here's where I landed. Thanks for all the input. At 0.75" increments with 3/8" bolts there will be enough distance to fit a open end wrench but not a box wrench or socket. At 1" increments you can fit all. Don't think that should matter. This set up gives a 5" maximum rise. Since my offset is 4.75" the settings will be: +0.25", -0.75" and -1.5".
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Old 09 July 2014, 16:38   #54
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I wouldn't do two bolts side by side. It's not going to do any good. Also one thing having small gap drilling metal plate another through wooden transom. Drill bit tends to wonder a bit in wood. Hard to drill exactly perpendicular. You may want to have holes drilled only in one plate then use those as guide to drill transom and opposite plate. I'm a little concerned that you only have bolts at the bottom. Top ones only clamp (I guess) which is never very reliable.
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Old 09 July 2014, 19:23   #55
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I addressed the bolts that were too close to each other. As is there are 6 x 3/8" bolts going through the transom. Is that sufficient? If I go up in size it'll interfere with the adjustability pattern so in that case I would rather add two more in the center but that seems a little overkill. I hear you on the drilling but I'd rather have all these holes water-jet cut and use them as a guide. That way I can trill halfway though from either side as perpendicular as possible. Or I could fab a guide rod for the bit to go through
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Old 10 July 2014, 11:39   #56
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How do you plan to attach motor, I'm guessing 4 bolts: 2 narrow in the middle and 2 at very top? Motor bracket has slots at bottom for adjusting height. Does its length match your adjustment range? If not you will have to drill extra holes in transom. Actually If you use 4 bolts to attach motor then you don't need to move your raiser up and down at all it can be left static, only motor and 2 top bolts need to go up and down. Your raiser doesn't have to be as tall either in that case. Clamps are not needed if you bolt it down with all 4.
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Old 10 July 2014, 16:23   #57
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I can't check the motor until tomorrow but as far as I recall there are only two holes on the motor meant for bolt mounting. Two holes in addition to the two clamps. So unless I am mistaken I am going to have to use the clamps and the two mounting holes with bolts to mount it. Those two holes are about 9MM wide x 32MM tall so a about 1 1/2" in adjustability up/down. I can check closer tomorrow.

I'm not sure I follow the rest of what you're saying. Are you saying that I could leave the riser static and have the motor move up/down? Wouldn't that leave a gap between motor mount and transom? Seems like you would want the motor to rest its weight on the transom instead of bolts, at all times. I also don't see how I could make it any less tall. It needs to have a total rise of 5".
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Old 11 July 2014, 11:51   #58
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1980 DT40 bit different bracket from 83+. Bolts are indeed M8. Slot (at least in graphic) is what limits adjust ability if bolted to transom. If it is not a slot but rather a hole then you can't move motor higher without drilling corresponding new pair of holes in transom. I suppose you can dial in height of outboard by adjusting raiser with outboard on clamps. Then once you found desired height drill transom to secure outboard using single pair of holes as guides.
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Old 11 July 2014, 12:01   #59
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Doh! I finally see what you're saying. I can't believe I haven't caught this until now. Of course the adjustment level is limited to the range of that slot otherwise I would have to drill more holes in the transom. So I will see if I can change the design to work around this. The total adjustment will then go from 2" to 1.5" unless I want to drill more holes in the transom. Thanks!
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Old 11 July 2014, 12:24   #60
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Taking a clew from outboards you can make slot in lower corners of raiser instead of holes and move your assembly (with some effort) without taking it complete apart. Remove upper loosen lower bolts you could slide it up and down with certainty that it won't fall off even with outboard mounted.
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