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Old 17 January 2003, 15:57   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Charles
...you have 2 or 3 sizes of drill bits which are suitable for the job.
Used the same method only you need to make sure that the drill heads are for SS. Didn't use lubricant either in case it warms us and catches fire.
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Old 17 January 2003, 16:23   #22
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Any high speed twist drill will cut through stainless, a lube will make the job easier but it isn't a necessity. Just take your time.

Why would a small fire be a problem manos?
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Old 17 January 2003, 16:30   #23
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Dirk

I did this job on the GEMINI I use to have when I had the boat in Greece. There is a pine forest and during the summer the area is very dry. A spark can cause BIG PROBS!!
Also if you see the configuration of the aft seating arrangement of matiboy's RIB a spark falling on the rear seat may ruin the upholstery.
I do not disagree with the lub idea. I was just making a simple comment!
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Old 17 January 2003, 16:59   #24
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matiboy

What with all this talk of drilling why not go and get the same bracket that i did and mount it on the A frame? Cost me 17 and no holes!!! The postion i showed in the thread was just an example before i fitted it. I will be putting it higher on the centre console but this is due to me not having an a frame.
So if you are not happy with the drilling i would recommend the mount i used on the a frame.

Thats what i would do. If you need any help with this or anything else please drop me a PM.

Regards
Stuart
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Old 17 January 2003, 17:08   #25
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Hi

Yes the location indicated by Manos would be ideal.

The longer fibergass antennas work better and if height is a problem most have ratchet mounts and can be folded flat.
I use the ones that are about 4 foot long.

As far a drilling stainless the key is to keep the drill bit cutting, once it stops cutting and spins the surface work hardens then you will need to resharpen the drill bit.
As far as bits go any GOOD HSS drill will be fine, but the cheap drills wont do a good job. Oh and keep the speed low.
Adding lube will help but not essential, cooling is more important so even water works!!.

One last thing make sure the protect the coax wher its exits the hole or it wont belong befre it chafes through.

Regards Gary
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Old 18 January 2003, 04:07   #26
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With the constant rain in the UK Manos, I doubt very much that you are going to start a fire!
SCM's idea about a bracket is a good one - check into it, if you do not want to go the drilling route.
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Old 18 January 2003, 05:47   #27
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Charles

You forgot to mention what I also said which was that looking at Matiboy's boat seating arrangement configuration aft the danger in creating a burn on the seats is high.
Also with the engine and fuel and all that why should you risk it??
I agree with Garygee in saying that you need water (I'll say not cold water but luck warm soapy water solution) rather for cooling and not a lubricant
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Old 18 January 2003, 05:59   #28
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Bracket

Although a bracket sounds like a good idea I think that

1. you need lock nuts due to vibrations
2. You are not guaranteed that it will not swivel and it may
3. look a bit bulky when mounted

On the Falcon I've got I opted for an aerial on the starboard side of the console because of the very long distance between the A-frame and the console. Also in case of a damage or emergency repairs all is close and highly accessible. Finally, in the sea environment is a RULE not to have too long wires and complicated connections.
In general you should keep everything simple to minimise any problems that they will arise anyway
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Old 18 January 2003, 08:08   #29
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Hey guys,

your making this drilling sound ever so difficult, your only making a few holes for some bolts, not drilling for oil!
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Old 18 January 2003, 08:14   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dirk Diggler
your making this drilling sound ever so difficult,
You are UPSOLUTELY right!!
Is just a straight forward job
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