Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 13 March 2012, 11:51   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,610
Voltage display offset?

I have been mucking ablut with my new (to me) Lowrance plotter, and having set the display up to show voltage, I thought it looked low. I then compared the battery to the display. Needless to say due to the batt terminals, main switch, fuse, plotter power switch , connector on the back of the plotter & a couple of yards of assorted cable, the display is reading about 0.5V lower than the batt.

After much mucking about deep diving every menu I could find, the only way I could figure out to have an "at battery" readout was to set the voltage display to "bar graph" and alter the parameters to make it turn red / green / yellow at appropriate voltages as offset by my voltmeter reading at the battery. Thing is the bar graph only shrinks in physical size so far, and even at "minimum" takes up more of the display area than I really wanted it to.


I can't find an "offset" option to make the plotter show what I know is happening at the battery, so I get a nice small font number in the corner. Does such a feature exist? if so, what weird combo of keys do I need to press to get it?
__________________

__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 March 2012, 21:41   #2
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
I've found the Lowrance displays to be nicely customizable, but only to a point. You're likely stuck with what they give you, but if you find differently (maybe a call to Lowrance?) I'd love to hear about it.

I noticed the voltage differential as well, and considered addig a small voltmeter wired directly to the battery. Yet another thing I haven't got around to addressing.

jky
__________________

__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 March 2012, 05:12   #3
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,610
I also toyed with that (also means it's independant of plotter electronics & potential failures there) but as I'm already having to build a pod to take the instrumentation I have already, another dial is going to take up more space I don't have...

The annoying thing is that I can make the bar graph do pretty much what I want, but can't customise the digital readout!
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 March 2012, 13:41   #4
RIBnet supporter
 
Erin's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,830
I suppose it begs the question, are you really that interested with the voltage at the battery terminals, or is the voltage at the ends of the wires connected to your gadgets actually not more relevant? If your battery is 12v but you only get 10v at your equipment due to corossion or wire lengths, I would have thought that that was more important to know.
Erin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 March 2012, 09:18   #5
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,610
True, but as most of my "toys" don't have built in voltmeters, what;s happening at source is probably more useful.

It did strike me that setting an alarm to the "modified" voltages and not really caring what was going on minute by minute is probably the most sensible thing. That way if it stops charging or over charges (gubbed regulator) I get a sqeal. At other times I get a nice clear screen.
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 March 2012, 09:25   #6
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Northampton
Make: RibTec
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outbaord mariner 75
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 506
Why not just stick one of these in the Dash?

NEW 2" 52MM BLUE LED DIGITAL TURBO VOLT VOLTMETER GAUGE FOR CAR | eBay

I am thinking fo doing it
__________________
jezza2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 March 2012, 10:59   #7
RIBnet admin team
 
Poly's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke YAM 20 HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10,114
9d280...

... you've always struck me as a fairly intelligent chap ...

So if I get this right battery on / engine off you are expecting something like 12.7 V but it reads 12.2 .... with the engine on you expect something like 14V but it reads 13.5V

YOU know the 0.5V offset. Can you not mentally apply it or reset your expectations?

Seems easier than trying to get a lowrance plotter to do anything you want that is not explicit in the manual.
__________________
Poly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 16 March 2012, 08:45   #8
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,610
I spend all s*dding week doing maths.....

Joking aside, I know I can do that. I have since reconfiguired it to just beep at me if things to totally pear shaped. Keeps the screen clear as well.

I just think it's crazy that I have oodles of computing power at my fingertips that can hook up to dozens of calibratable sensors and the one that can't be calibrated is the one that every person who buys one can use 'coz it's built in!

But then most people probably wouldn't have noticed the differential in the first place....
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16 March 2012, 12:13   #9
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Buckingham
Make: Ribcraft 4.8
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 75
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 352
I agree with earlier posters that the voltage of interest should be that available to your console instruments/ radio - if that requires a heavier duty cable between battery/ isolator and console to reduce the voltage drop then so be it (I doubt that the battery terminals/ isolator/ fuse will contribute much resistance and if they are then worth changing them)!
__________________
BumbleAbout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 March 2012, 17:17   #10
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polwart View Post
So if I get this right battery on / engine off you are expecting something like 12.7 V but it reads 12.2 .... with the engine on you expect something like 14V but it reads 13.5V

YOU know the 0.5V offset. Can you not mentally apply it or reset your expectations?
Problem occurs when you've got, say 11V at the plotter (after the electrons have wended their way down the little obstacle-filled copper pathways); what's happening at the electron parking lot? 12.2 (or 14.4 while running) volts would immediately indicate something's wrong with the wiring, and the rest of the electrical system is fine. 11.5 volts would mean it's time to cut the trip short, and perhaps call to make sure assistance is standing by.

jky
__________________

__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 16:56.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.