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Old 22 February 2013, 10:49   #11
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Just take your transom mounted unit and epoxy it to the bottom of the hull. I've done two this way, excellent results at all speeds. Saves your transom from future water ingress as well.
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Old 22 February 2013, 10:52   #12
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I took the advice from a previous thread, and silicon'ed the transducer into the bilge well at near the bilge pump.

I built up a dam from modelling clay, and filled it with a good thick layer, and made sure the ransducer was horizontal as possible, and no air bubbles were in the silicon, and left it to set.

If it was not right I could have redone it, but it was fine.

It gives a good reading, even at near WOT.

When I got the Rib the transducer was fixed half way up the transom, so over 5 knots it didnt work................
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Old 22 February 2013, 19:52   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonto View Post
When I got the Rib the transducer was fixed half way up the transom, so over 5 knots it didnt work................
I could see that not working.


jky
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Old 23 February 2013, 16:49   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boristhebold View Post
I think the concensus opinion is that transom mounted transducers (depth guage) are a bit of a hit or a miss, they need fine tuning and depending upon location and make get mixed results from people.

Generally Hull mounted are a better option.

I will play around with tweaking the position of the transom mount I have and will also investigate the possibility of having a hull one fitted when I am about to upgrade my chart plotter, if feasable I will add a depth guage capability to the new plotter with a hull transducer and keep my old plotter fitted with the existing transom mounted transducer. That way I will have a complete back up system and the option to full screen both plotter and depth guage .
The secret is to get the cleanest water flow over the transducer, with the least turbulance. In my old boat i had to move it three times to get best results. Even filled a very tiny gap between transducer and hull with silicone, which improved results - slightly
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Old 23 February 2013, 18:45   #15
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As an experiment-if you've got a drain well at the transom, so there is a single layer of grp between the water and the transducer, put your transducer in it and throw a bucket of water in there with it. Just lodge the transducer in place with a bag of sand or sommat if neccesary although I've never found that required and see how it works. It should work fine even at speed-and one of my fast fishing boats ran like that for years-just launched and chucked a bit of water in each time. If it works dry it all out and squeeze a dollop of silicon into the allocated place, push the transducer hard down into it with a bit of a twist to get rid of air bubbles amd let it cure. It'll be fine-even though the books will say don't use silicon it works with no problems and can easily be removed if you decide differently later.
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Old 23 February 2013, 19:01   #16
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The Raymarine installation manual for in hull txrs suggests just sticking them in a plastic bag of water & positioning them in the hull until you find the best echo. Then place the txr on a bed of KY jelly to confirm the positioning,if that works ok, epoxy in place.
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Old 24 February 2013, 16:00   #17
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I have a through hull system and stepped hull

I can say, this works till 15kn... ;-)
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