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Old 04 April 2013, 12:51   #21
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The blackened cable that I've seen has been completely rotten - even the strength had gone and it was brittle. The problem isn't surface tarnishing (that wouldn't effect the conductivity) - it's the complete degradation of the copper in the wire. Poly will know what the reaction is - is it forming a salt or something?
On that end of the wire, I cut it back 2 inches....black....another 6 inches....black...then another 8 inches...black....

Gave up. It's not worth saving.
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Old 04 April 2013, 12:57   #22
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Gave up. It's not worth saving.
Yes. I was posting that more for the future hopefuls who read the thread and tried vinegar as a fix

It takes battery cables very badly. The water seeps up the cable and the corrosion begins. I think the result is "hot spots" which quickly get worse and then the fun starts...
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Old 04 April 2013, 13:01   #23
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Poly will know what the reaction is
dat scoch nobjokky duzunt noe iz arrse fromm iz elboe


4Cu + O2 + 4H+ + 4OH = 2CU2O + 4H2O +NaCl = F2U3K2T
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Old 04 April 2013, 13:52   #24
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White vinegar and salt?

While it may clean up the corrosion, I'd be a little leery of a) introducing an acid to what is already a reactive metal, and b) adding more of what caused the corrosion in the first place. Going to be impossible to rinse the stuff out of the strands, in any case.

jky
Like I said, only if you really can't replace it. Neutralise with baking soda or similar after...
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Old 04 April 2013, 14:12   #25
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Poly will know what the reaction is - is it forming a salt or something?
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dat scoch nobjokky duzunt noe iz arrse fromm iz elboe
do you think if I went on one of them RYA first aid courses I would learn some anatomy?
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4Cu + O2 + 4H+ + 4OH = 2CU2O + 4H2O +NaCl = F2U3K2T
Not sure I have anything further to add!

But in the interests of pedantry the black stuff is CuO not Cu2O (which is red)! Cu2O reacts with carbon dioxide and or sulphates in air to form Copper Carbonate / sulphate - the green "patina" you get on church roofs etc.

CuO does dissolve in strong acids. But I can't see any advantage in removing anything other than surface corrosion on connectors. Not sure why you might add salt either.
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Old 04 April 2013, 14:20   #26
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Old 04 April 2013, 16:56   #27
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On that end of the wire, I cut it back 2 inches....black....another 6 inches....black...then another 8 inches...black....

Gave up. It's not worth saving.
Had similar issue with a Tohatsu wiring loom. Kept cutting it back to see how far the corrosion went... suffice to say it was goosed! Replaced the lot, and where possible I used tinned cable.
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Old 08 April 2013, 14:02   #28
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Weekend update:

Sealed the heck out of some of the non-tinned mil-spec stuff that I had and the replaced 3 ft. from my 24v to 12v converter to my 12v distribution panel. GPS and VHF stayed on all day yesterday while out on the water!!!

Though, while I was under dash, I realized that the guy I bought my boat from used 12 gauge to feed the converter with 24v current (don't ask me why he used 12 gauge for 24v 50A in and 10 gauge for the 12v 40A out). That's a little small!!! Need to replace that ASAP before the next outing!!!
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Old 08 April 2013, 15:17   #29
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don't ask me why he used 12 gauge for 24v 50A in and 10 gauge for the 12v 40A out
All depends upon the length of the run. If it was only a few inches then 12 gau might have been ok.
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Old 08 April 2013, 15:43   #30
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All depends upon the length of the run. If it was only a few inches then 12 gau might have been ok.
True. I'm not drawing much with my current house/12v loads (VHF/GPS) so it's probably ok for right now.

Both the runs to/from DC-DC 24v/12v converter are ~3ft or a bit less. But, I want them spec'd for max current.

Using Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems
In: 24v, 50A, 6ft., 3% drop, Variable Load, 105 degrees, engine room checked, it says 10 gauge
Out: 12v, 40A, 6ft., 3% drop, Variable Load, 105 degrees, engine room checked, it also recommends 10 gauge

10 gauge seems reasonable.
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