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Old 10 April 2003, 15:06   #31
TIM
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If you speak to Jim at Biboa he will put you strait on a few Misconceptions


What do you mean by that?????
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Old 10 April 2003, 15:20   #32
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Tim
If you speak to him he will give his objective oppinions on the best engine and outdrive and also boat Hull.

He has a lot of experiance and knows what works.

I speak to him quite frequently for ideas and advice on what works and doesnt,and what is Hype and isnt.
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Old 10 April 2003, 17:39   #33
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Tim,
On warranty, I am told that when you first buy your engine, you have bought, in the price, a one year warranty.
When 12 calendar months have passed, your warranty expires no matter how many replacement (ie new) legs you have fitted in the meantime.
This is the official stance.
In practise you may find it diferent, but that sure isn't the way to bet!

PS I agree with you on shock loadings.

I also agree with CH that Jim is an excellent source of valuable opinion and information, and a super top-line guy that I love to death.
However, he is not the only source of valuable information and experience around us, and he does use a twin, non-Yanmar, non-Bravo leg configuration. So shades of Mandy Rice-Davis perhaps?
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Old 11 April 2003, 04:14   #34
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Bravo 3

Tim

The Bravo 3x leg is suppose to be fine now that they have toughened it all up etc, they do fix them for free either, we paid nearly 2k to have ours upgraded, Not good but we had no choice.

Julian
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Old 11 April 2003, 04:50   #35
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The B3x leg.............

Is not fine if as Brian postulates (good word) you have a heavy RIB - He went through two - one after RB4 and one in Scotland last year. Fried, Boiled and knackered.

I think that the weight thing must be very significant as you report no problems, nor does Mark Wildley and Allen C both who run 300 Yanmar / B3x's in lighter boats.

And Brian was Mandy Rice Davies (showing your age here I think) Scottish with a beard?




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Old 11 April 2003, 05:18   #36
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Bravo 3x

Alan

I agree with you i think the weight of the rib is a contributing factor to the problems with the drives, not sure how much heavier Brians boat is but it must be a quite a bit,

Julian
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Old 11 April 2003, 12:30   #37
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The original question was which is the best stern drive, so for my money its a great big Stern Power. Built like a Russian T72. The other good point is the exhaust exits through the transom not the stern drive so no over heating problems. New about 4k second hand 750 to 1k.

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Old 11 April 2003, 17:31   #38
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Errm you may be right but the B3x Yanmar 300 combos on Scorpions I have seen have seperate exhaust exiting through pipe and hypalon tube thingy so that cant contribute to the overheating problem. Think its more about power and torque and all that engineering type stuff.

Sternpower drives are used on all the MOD Pacifics arent they? Gotta be a ringing endorsement!

Alan
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Old 11 April 2003, 20:00   #39
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Alan, surely a stern drive can't get that hot just from the bearing and gears ? someone said it took the paint finish off ? the exhaust has to be a contributing factor afterall half of a stern drive is in the water ? comments from those who have had one fail then perhaps ? or is it the fact that 300 hp through a UJ and two bevel gears just isn't good engineering for long term use ?

Pete
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Old 12 April 2003, 05:02   #40
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I you drive your aveage car at 30mph, hold your foot gently on the brakes for 1 min, stop, get out, look at your discs, chances are they're near red hot! that's a small percentage of your car's power (maybe 30-40hp) going into the discs! Imagine tearing along at 40Knts, using say 200 of your 300 hp, as your drive begins to fail (for whatever reason) and the friction of the gears and bearings rises, which of course generates more heat, and your boat begins to slow down, every one of those horses that were pushing you at 40, but are now only pushing you at 35, are being turned into heat! 1 hp = 746 watts, so imagine all the electric bar fires you now have switched on in your B3! as the gears fail and the friction goes up, way up,
The heat damage you see at the end of this "chain of events" is started with a small problem within your drive that brings about the increasing friction which spirals into very rapid meltdown!
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