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Old 15 March 2007, 19:02   #21
alt
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Originally Posted by IBWET View Post
I think JW know's what a breather is..however I can think of no breather on your engine,which I suspect he's getting at.
Aye I suspected he knows well what a breather is. I thought there was a breather on the KAD42? Must have read wrong.

Go easy on me!

-Edit- Just spotted I have 32 instead of 42 in the title - doh!
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Old 15 March 2007, 19:09   #22
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-Edit- Just spotted I have 32 instead of 42 in the title - doh!
And your picture is a 32! Are you confused?
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Old 15 March 2007, 19:13   #23
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Crankcase breather

There's a can about the size of a bean tin near the rear of the engine - possibly beneath the turbocharger. Has a filter incorporated in it.
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Old 16 March 2007, 04:33   #24
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Hope you don't mind alt, I've a wee question myself; Does the KAMD44 have anodes in the engine? I've been all over them and can't find one (you want to check this on the 32 alt )

JW: my engines are 24 Valve heads this has stopped me adjusting the tappets, one is noisey, it dosen't bother me,what chance do you think of dropping a valve etc?





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There's a can about the size of a bean tin near the rear of the engine - possibly beneath the turbocharger. Has a filter incorporated in it.
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Old 16 March 2007, 07:26   #25
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JW: my engines are 24 Valve heads this has stopped me adjusting the tappets, one is noisey, it dosen't bother me,what chance do you think of dropping a valve etc?
A noisey tappet (within reason) will do no harm, is just softens the valve timing on that cylinder. You do not need to be anxious about setting a 24 valve engine. There are 12 normal rockers. To activate 24 valves, the rockers press on the centre of a lever which presses 2 valves at a time. The word lever here isn't a good description. The principle is simple. One end of the lever also has a screw and nut adjuster just like the rocker. This screw bears on the top of one of the pair of valves so that you can ensure both vales open at the same time by adjusting the screw. It is much simpler than it sounds. I also found that when one pair of valves was down, it was possible to adjust 4 rockers so making the job a bit quicker. The heal of the cam must be circular and the timing fairly conservative.
The method I used was to get 2 valves down and identify the rockers to be adjusted.
Slacken the rocker locknut.
Slacken the lever locknut and back off the screw a half turn.
Insert the feeler.
Tighten the rocker screw until the feeler is lightly gripped to remove all the slack. This also makes one end of the lever contact its valve.
Finger tighten the lever screw to bring it into contanct with its valve and nip up its locknut.

This has balanced the opening of the pair of valves so that they are the same. Now go back to the rocker screw and adjust the clearance in the usual way. Write down which rockers you have adjusted. Repeat for the other rockers. Rotate the engine until the next pair of valves are down and repeat the prodedure.

It does take a while to do the job but it's staightforward if a bit fiddly. It took me about 4hours in total and much of that was removing all the bits so that I could lift the rocker cover!

On my engine, the listed replacement rocker cover gasket was priced at about 130. Needless to say, I didn't buy one. It was a good job too because it wasn't needed. The rocker cover had the usual piece of rubber cord set into a groove machined into the cover and it was still soft and reusable.
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Old 16 March 2007, 07:35   #26
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Thanks J,

Removing the fuel lines (which run over the top of the cover) is my main concern because of inadvertently bending them then getting issues with air.

It's your (within reason) thats' worrying me





Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker View Post
A noisey tappet (within reason) will do no harm, is just softens the valve timing on that cylinder. You do not need to be anxious about setting a 24 valve engine. There are 12 normal rockers. To activate 24 valves, the rockers press on the centre of a lever which presses 2 valves at a time. The word lever here isn't a good description. The principle is simple. One end of the lever also has a screw and nut adjuster just like the rocker. This screw bears on the top of one of the pair of valves so that you can ensure both vales open at the same time by adjusting the screw. It is much simpler than it sounds. I also found that when one pair of valves was down, it was possible to adjust 4 rockers so making the job a bit quicker. The heal of the cam must be circular and the timing fairly conservative.
The method I used was to get 2 valves down and identify the rockers to be adjusted.
Slacken the rocker locknut.
Slacken the lever locknut and back off the screw a half turn.
Insert the feeler.
Tighten the rocker screw until the feeler is lightly gripped to remove all the slack. This also makes one end of the lever contact its valve.
Finger tighten the lever screw to bring it into contanct with its valve and nip up its locknut.

This has balanced the opening of the pair of valves so that they are the same. Now go back to the rocker screw and adjust the clearance in the usual way. Write down which rockers you have adjusted. Repeat for the other rockers. Rotate the engine until the next pair of valves are down and repeat the prodedure.

It does take a while to do the job but it's staightforward if a bit fiddly. It took me about 4hours in total and much of that was removing all the bits so that I could lift the rocker cover!

On my engine, the listed replacement rocker cover gasket was priced at about 130. Needless to say, I didn't buy one. It was a good job too because it wasn't needed. The rocker cover had the usual piece of rubber cord set into a groove machined into the cover and it was still soft and reusable.
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Old 16 March 2007, 08:26   #27
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Thanks J,

Removing the fuel lines (which run over the top of the cover) is my main concern because of inadvertently bending them then getting issues with air.
You're going to have to disconnect them from the injectors anyway so you'll need to bleed the system when you've finished.

Quote:
It's your (within reason) thats' worrying me
Funny you should say that cos I was just away sitting on the shitter and thought I'd better come back and qualify that.

An extra couple of thou clearance will not be a problem. If there is an error, it's better that the clearance is large rather than too small. I can see this next bit is gonna need a diagram....The rocker clearance is adjusted when the tappet is sitting on the heel of the cam. This heel is circular over a number of degrees and the rocker clearance can be adjusted while the tappet is sitting anywhere in this area. Now, to take up the clearance and lower the rocker gently onto the valve stem, there is a portion of the cam which is a ramp and it gently lifts the tappet. Following this ramp is the cam lift sector and this very quickly increases in lift rate.

If the rocker clearance is too wide, the ramp is passed and the lift sector is in use when the rocker contacts the valve. Because the acceleration of lift is increasing rapidly in this sector after the ramp, the rocker is not landed onto the valve gently and you get the consequent noise. Plainly, if the clearance is excessive there is increased noise and a degree of shock in the valve train which is undesirable. The valve timing is also altered so the valves open too late and close too early.

Having the rocker clearance too tight is a very bad thing because the valve will be opened using the ramp sector and, because this is a gentle slope, the valve will be opening much too early and also closing much too late. There is a risk of burned valves because the hot combustion gasses will be squirting through the narrow gap between the valve head and the valve seat while the tappet is on the cam ramp. Also, the valve heads run hot and their opportunity to loose heat is the time that they are in contact with the valve seat. When the rocker clearance is too small this heat transfer time is reduced.
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Old 16 March 2007, 11:11   #28
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The Easy Way

easiest way i have found to do the valve clearances is to get a mechanic to do it.

These engines are just glorified dumper engines that have the word aqua thrown in. Any decent diesel mechanic can do it no bother, the clearances are written on the plastic casing - job done.

My fella charges about 100 do do the valve clearances - and what takes the time is to get off the pipework.

No anodes on the engine, just on the drive.

So is it the KAD 32 or 42 you are getting? photo was the 32?

Pete
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Old 17 March 2007, 17:35   #29
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Hi guys,
So confused with lack of sleep. I have the boat now

She's the KAD32, sorry about the confusion!

With regard to the valve clearance settings - I'm goin to leave it to a pro. My question is: Boat is on 370 hours, when should I be getting someone to look at them? Receipts of previous maintenance don't show anything to say that the clearance was checked previously.

With regard to the anodes - Are there anodes on the KAD engine? I can see 2 on the DP stern drive (Which are well due a change).

While we're on the topic: Anywhere online (From a UK place) that I can buy KAD anodes, filters etc? Nowhere in Ireland know's what they're selling, would prefer to buy online
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Old 17 March 2007, 18:58   #30
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With regard to the valve clearance settings - I'm goin to leave it to a pro. My question is: Boat is on 370 hours, when should I be getting someone to look at them? Receipts of previous maintenance don't show anything to say that the clearance was checked previously.
I'm sure my wee book said first at 50hrs and then every 100hrs but I've lost it so maybe I imagined it because my dealer says the Volvo document they have says first at 100hrs and again at each 100hrs after that.

Quote:
Anywhere online (From a UK place) that I can buy KAD anodes, filters etc?
I buy my filters from a motor factors, just over 4 for a fuel filter and about 6 for an air filter, can't remember the price for the oil filter.

I've found these folk to be helpful:

VOLSPEC, Tollesbury

Tel: 08007314824 or 01621869756
Fax: 01621 868859
sales@volspec.co.uk

You may find this to be useful.
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