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Old 12 March 2007, 19:25   #11
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Just a filler/dipstick and drain plug. Yes, change it and you'll know it's fine from now on. I'd also replace the drive oil too and then you'll have everything hunky dory. I don't know what oil is recommended for your drive but it's likely to be Synthetic GL5 75w90. Volvo charge abot 80qwid for 5 litre I have been using Castrol Dynadrive Plus 75w90. You have to lashout about 140 but you get 25litres. I've recently changed to Fuchs Titan Cytrac 75w90, the price is similar.
Changed thw oil in my Alpha One Drive with the Castrol 75w 90 during the summer, about 30euro for 2 litres. I presume the Volvo drive is the same stuff, however I will research this. The boat will not be goign in the water for a few weeks so can get all my pre-season work done promptly.

I presume the water impeller is in the out-drive like most other drives? (What a stupid idea argh!)
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Old 12 March 2007, 19:50   #12
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...I presume the water impeller is in the out-drive like most other drives? (What a stupid idea argh!)
NO! The water pump is above the alternator. The face plate comes off and the impellor can be replaced. If you do this on the water, be sure the pump is above the sea level or you'll flood. Pete told you to look for water leaks at the rear of the pump because it can drip into the alternator. Given you mention an alternator failure, I'd take his advice if I were you.
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Old 13 March 2007, 11:33   #13
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NO! The water pump is above the alternator. The face plate comes off and the impellor can be replaced. If you do this on the water, be sure the pump is above the sea level or you'll flood. Pete told you to look for water leaks at the rear of the pump because it can drip into the alternator. Given you mention an alternator failure, I'd take his advice if I were you.
It's all making sense now! I thought he mentioned that the strainer was above the alternator, not the pump. Should there be a leak from the strainer/pump, would replacing the pump do the trick? I think I remember watching an RNLI DVD showing the basics, one o fwhich included a water impeller change
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Old 13 March 2007, 16:26   #14
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It's all making sense now! I thought he mentioned that the strainer was above the alternator, not the pump. Should there be a leak from the strainer/pump, would replacing the pump do the trick? I think I remember watching an RNLI DVD showing the basics, one o fwhich included a water impeller change
The strainer is above the pump which is above and slightly to the side of the alternator. If either of them leak there will be water around that area. The strainer and the pump are separate items. After replacing the lid of the strainer, be sure to tighten it firmly. It can leak if just done up finger tight.
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Old 14 March 2007, 06:02   #15
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The strainer is above the pump which is above and slightly to the side of the alternator. If either of them leak there will be water around that area. The strainer and the pump are separate items. After replacing the lid of the strainer, be sure to tighten it firmly. It can leak if just done up finger tight.
Will keep this in mind when it comes to servicing. Did anyone think of installing an angled aluminium plate (Or similar) under the water pump to divert any possible leaking water? Or is this impossible? (I've not yet seen the engine in the flesh so don't know how much space there is down there)
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Old 14 March 2007, 07:29   #16
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I think i'll need to buy a service manual ASAP for this engine to be safe, as it will answer most my questions.

How often do you guy's change the crankcase breather filter on these engines?
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Old 14 March 2007, 11:06   #17
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I think i'll need to buy a service manual ASAP for this engine to be safe, as it will answer most my questions.
The user manual is all you'll need until a major job is necessary. Download here.

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How often do you guy's change the crankcase breather filter on these engines?
What's that?
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Old 15 March 2007, 17:14   #18
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The user manual is all you'll need until a major job is necessary. Download here.

What's that?
Thansk for the link, J. Good reading. Picking up the boat in less than 24 hours woohoo!

Re: Crank breather... Hope you're joking... crank breather was the reason for many a turbo failure on the BMW diesels
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Old 15 March 2007, 18:26   #19
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Thansk for the link, J. Good reading. Picking up the boat in less than 24 hours woohoo!

Re: Crank breather... Hope you're joking... crank breather was the reason for many a turbo failure on the BMW diesels
I think JW know's what a breather is..however I can think of no breather on your engine,which I suspect he's getting at.
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Old 15 March 2007, 19:01   #20
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There is one on my KAD300. It is a rubber tube, about 200mm ID., which comes off the top/side of the rocker cover and goes around and down the port side of the engine but I'm not sure just where it terminates. I'll have a look tomorrow. There is an anti splash plate inside the cover to prevent oil being drawn directly into the tube. I can tell you that, since I adjusted the rocker clearances yesterday, the tube was virtually dry inside and not the oily sludgy thing that they often are.

Edit: I can see a pipe, on the picture you posted, coming from the rear rocker cover starboard side so it's in an entirely different position on your engine.
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