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Old 05 May 2014, 17:20   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston View Post
think we may have found the problem

get that ht kit ordered

(assuming A1an is right then everything makes sense )
I wouldn't order anything before doing more fault finding.
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Old 05 May 2014, 17:23   #12
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Originally Posted by A1an View Post
I wouldn't order anything before doing more fault finding.
but its pretty clear its not fuel, similar symptoms to the case i mentioned and now the tacho isn't working properly- seems like a no brainer to me? I mean 70 is two tanks of petrol at the end of the day.
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Old 05 May 2014, 17:27   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston View Post
but its pretty clear its not fuel, similar symptoms to the case i mentioned and now the tacho isn't working properly- seems like a no brainer to me? I mean 70 is two tanks of petrol at the end of the day.
I'm talking about the charge coil under flywheel, NOT the ignition coil that your HT lead comes from.
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Old 05 May 2014, 17:29   #14
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Originally Posted by A1an View Post
I'm talking about the charge coil under flywheel, NOT the ignition coil that your HT lead comes from.
sorry I got the wrong end of the stick
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Old 05 May 2014, 17:37   #15
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Thanks Alan, you might just have nailed it.

Here's the part list. Anything here jump out and how do I go about testing the little blighter!
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Old 05 May 2014, 18:08   #16
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Tohatsu one step away from being an anchor!

Hmmm... electrics aren't really my thing dude, I get the basics and looking at them in situ on an engine I can usually get by but usually by trial and error!

First step I would do is get the engine running and check battery voltage, 12.8v ish with engine off, 14.4v ish with fast idle. Some modern engines will charge at idle, some need a fast idle.

I don't know if your tacho issue and power issue are one and the same but who knows.

When did tacho pack up?

Same time as engine problem?
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Old 05 May 2014, 19:25   #17
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Yes, electrics aren't my thing either! It's a good call though.

The tacho has been intermittent. I had an issue with Tohatsu wiring last year. Someone should tell Tohatsu to use tinned cable when making outboards!

I rewired part of the outboard cable loom last year (corroded wiring) and checked continuity through all the wires to the remote. I could check the green pulse wire for continuity to the tacho again at the weekend. The tacho illuminates, but that's about it. Last year the overheat or low oil alarm sounded and strangely it did this on Sunday too, for a very short burst when starting the engine. If it's low oil the oil lamp on the tacho should illuminate.

The engine is an autolube and it's definitely using oil as I check the fill line. When it sounded last year I added a little more oil to the petrol tank rather than risk a seized engine. Call it cautionary, but better safe than sorry.

It pumps water and the tell-tale is very strong. The impeller was changed last year, and I renewed the thermostat, again a genuine Tohatsu part. I also had to renew the head gasket (stripped spark plug threads on number 1 and 2 cylinders), so a good opportunity to see water cooling passages. I cleaned it all up and reassembled.

I can't see this being a rev limiter or faulty sensor issue. As far as I'm aware the Tohatsu is a fairly agricultural bit of kit, with an overheat sensor on the block and an oil level sensor on the oil reservoir. If the rev limiter was introduced I'd be reduced to 3,500rpm. At the weekend I clocked 27mph on the GPS at wide open throttle (albeit bogged down) so I know it's not that.

I'm slowly rebuilding this engine one part at a time!
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Old 06 May 2014, 03:29   #18
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May be a bit late in the day but there are some other simple steps to see what is wrong.

1) run engine with a spark checker installed.

2) back off fuel pump from block and squeeze bulb. If petrol comes out of the middle hole, it's the fuel pump.

3) at the same time look around carbs for petrol coming out of breathers, if it does it is the float needle or height.

4) remove airbox and launch boat. Run engine in gear at speed and look down the venturi, if you have a fuel blockage to will see it straight away and which carb.

5) replace airbox and undo the loom whilst running, that will tell you if it is the control box.

6) I assume fuel system to engine is A1

7) many electrical problems are intermittent. Whatever the problem with your engine, it is always there so should be findable.

8) I was never convinced by plug inserts, if you cannot find anything else wrong, it may be back to square 1
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Old 06 May 2014, 03:36   #19
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These are the spark checkers I was talking about.Click image for larger version

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Old 06 May 2014, 15:00   #20
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Spartacus,

Would be wise to invest on a service manual, flywheel coil is the party soul, if altered, you'll start to have all sorts of electrical failures down the road > CD > Ignition Coils. It's easy to check, need an appropriate meter, just disconnect cables connect to meter and crank engine and check achieved readings, compare to factory ones.

But if having heat related intermittent issues, that's another story. Btw, you have 3 spare ignition coils or a 3 sole unit, assume CD is independent too ?

Adjust back idle carb screws to their original settings, only works at idle, at any other throttle setting than idle, fuel/air mixture is fixed and non adjustable.

Happy Boating
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