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Old 15 June 2011, 17:03   #1
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Stiff Steering

Non power assisted steering on Ribeye fitted with 100Yam seems to be stiff. A colleague tells me it is a simple operation to remove the linkage, then slacken the metal nut at the cable side, then remove the other end [plastic] and withdraw the bar, to clean and regrease with waterproof grease. Any comments on the procedure, recommended precautions and types of grease best suited.
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Old 15 June 2011, 18:02   #2
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Hi

It is quite easy to do that provided you have room on the transom to remove the bar as sometimes it requires to be fitted prior to securing the engine down onto the boat transom.

If you do manage it there's a neat little idea of a "steering saver" which replaces the holding nut with one that has a grease nipple to maintain it. Only around 30 on eBay etc. I always fit these now but before that I drill out the tube using an adapted (extended) drill then grease it all up with marine graded grease prior to fitting

One thing to consider though, chances are if it's stiff it's not been maintained for a while so expect the cable to be worn, damaged or sheer a bolt etc. Prepare for the worst and hope for the best!

Let us know how you get on

P.s I've a decent hydraulic steering system available if you fancy an upgrade. Complete with all pipes etc. Used but very good condition. Cost over 700 new. I'd take 250

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
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Old 15 June 2011, 18:07   #3
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Could also be the cable dragging within the housing, or hardened grease in the motor pivot tube.

Should be able to tell once you get the cable disconnected.

jky
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Old 16 June 2011, 15:15   #4
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More on stiff steering

Peter
Thanks for that.
Any recommendations on grease? Is there any bad signs to look for when beginning the work, which will tell me that the problem is not likely to go to plan? Which way does the bar come out, the opposite end to the cable? I am assuming the cable is secured with some kind of captivated ball or barrel [like a bicycle brake lever], which gets released when the nut is undone.

Like the idea of hydraulic steering but haven't got 700 free cash -just hope to win lottery!

Martin
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Old 16 June 2011, 15:28   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solent Ribman
Peter
Thanks for that.
Any recommendations on grease? Is there any bad signs to look for when beginning the work, which will tell me that the problem is not likely to go to plan? Which way does the bar come out, the opposite end to the cable? I am assuming the cable is secured with some kind of captivated ball or barrel [like a bicycle brake lever], which gets released when the nut is undone.

Like the idea of hydraulic steering but haven't got 700 free cash -just hope to win lottery!

Martin
Hi Martin

Your welcome. The steering will remove the cable end the same way it went in. The plastic thread the other side is just to cover the threads on the other side (incase you ever wanted to swap steering sides). Just disconnect the return drag link from the teleflex coming out the other side then start to remove the larger nut on the cable end. Both of them will be free, the biggest problem could be getting it removed from the steering tube. Clean the inner tube out fully before refitting.

Oh and my steering was Offered for just 250, not 700. Amazing the difference it makes. Adds value to on re-sale

Peter
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Old 16 June 2011, 15:31   #6
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We had cable steering on yam 100 on training boat and lasted just on a year, I have recently upgrading it to hydraulic and Boats/Outboards are spot on price new without labour, their used unit if OK at 250 is good just need a good person to change it over. I think a new cable and fit would be still about 250 fitted anyway
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Old 16 June 2011, 15:41   #7
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Originally Posted by C2 RIBS
We had cable steering on yam 100 on training boat and lasted just on a year, I have recently upgrading it to hydraulic and Boats/Outboards are spot on price new without labour, their used unit if OK at 250 is good just need a good person to change it over. I think a new cable and fit would be still about 250 fitted anyway
Well worth the investment but agreed little harder to fit than the usual Teleflex system. Strange how some last years and others fail quicker.

I'd disagree slightly with replacement costs on a new cable though. If it's just the cable (keeping existing helm) it's only around 65 in parts. Fitting is free if you do it yourself. You can get the cheapo kits (including helm) for around 100 but if your changing it I'd suggest you invest in a slightly more expensive kit which should stand the test of time. Just make sure it's rated to carry the motor you have as some are only rated unto 55hp

Hope it works out for you,

Peter

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Old 16 June 2011, 16:38   #8
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Originally Posted by Boats&Outboards View Post
Hi Martin

Your welcome. The steering will remove the cable end the same way it went in. The plastic thread the other side is just to cover the threads on the other side (incase you ever wanted to swap steering sides). Just disconnect the return drag link from the teleflex coming out the other side then start to remove the larger nut on the cable end. Both of them will be free, the biggest problem could be getting it removed from the steering tube. Clean the inner tube out fully before refitting.

Oh and my steering was Offered for just 250, not 700. Amazing the difference it makes. Adds value to on re-sale

Peter
Peter
Thanks again. Sorry, I saw 700 and didn't read the last bit! Still not financially viable, hence my wanting to sort the steering myself to avoid hefty bill. Are there any diagrams of the steering available, to get to grips with the terminology? What about any specific grease?
Martin
If weather holds I'll do the job at the weekend.
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Old 16 June 2011, 16:52   #9
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Np Martin the reason for my reply was not to try to sell the kit anyway. I'll need it one day.

Grease, something like Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Grease with Teflon would do fine. No diagrams that I have but I'm sure you can google it and find something.

It's pretty standard to be fair so I'm confident you'll get it sorted. It's two nuts and a bit of luck....

Hope the weather comes good for you.

Peter

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Old 22 June 2011, 15:26   #10
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Report on work

Task was reasonably straightforward in the end. Only problem [which I was warned of] the arm couldn't be withdrawn as not enough space! Did not want to [or have tackle] to remove engine!
Fortunately, the bar was not seized in any way, so I ended up moving from lock to lock and putting grease on each end, then tightening back the two end nuts and replacing the steering linkage. Couldn't utilise the grease nipples, as didn't have empty grease gun to refill! Have now bought an inexpensive [2.95 from Axminster Tools] small push-to-pump style grease gun to apply when I get home this weekend!
Hope to get out on Solent this weekend, so will see if there is any noticeable improvement with the steering.
Thanks to all for advice.
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