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Old 08 September 2016, 13:18   #11
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Do you think that star brite descaler would work in old car radiators?

It s not heavily blocked as was recored 25 years ago will an ally core instead of brass and is a light and partial blockage.
Has anyone used it and reports positively?
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Old 08 September 2016, 13:43   #12
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Do you think that star brite descaler would work in old car radiators?

It s not heavily blocked as was recored 25 years ago will an ally core instead of brass and is a light and partial blockage.
Has anyone used it and reports positively?
I would use a proper rad flush
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Old 08 September 2016, 13:54   #13
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Hmmm. Tried that. Need something more powerfull
There are a few cold spots on the core. I dont want to have to re core it again
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Old 08 September 2016, 15:40   #14
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Hmmm. Tried that. Need something more powerfull
There are a few cold spots on the core. I dont want to have to re core it again
Dish washer descaler ?
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Old 08 September 2016, 17:35   #15
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Sorry I've just remembered. I took the gearbox off the Suzuki, connected a small submersible pump (bilge pump should work) to a hose that I stuffed onto the water feed pipe that would normally connect to the engines water pump. I ran this pump in the bucket of rydlyme and then took the tell tale nozzle off the engine, connected a second hose to the stub of pipe the tell tale nozzle clips into and fed that back into the bucket which I positioned under the exhaust to catch the rest. This system minimised wastage / spillage and recirculated the Rydlyme. I ended up taking the thermostat out, running the engine for short periods (until the temperature of the Rydlyme was about warm bathwater temperature then switched the engine off and left the pump circulating I repeated this for about 2 hours I guess and eventually had around a pint glass or more worth of solid calcite like deposits left in the bottom of the flushing bucket so it certainly did something useful.
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Old 08 September 2016, 17:36   #16
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I expect dishwasher descaler would in hindsight do the same job and work well. I was cautious not to damage any anti corrosion coatings within the engine
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Old 09 September 2016, 01:19   #17
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Whilst I am new to the internals of outboards, I am much more familiar with inboard diesels and have regularly serviced ( and descaled) mine for many a year. I use a rad flush agent from the local plumbers merchant; recycled using a small drill pump into and out of a bucket so the warm water is collected and thus becomes more effective.
The main point I wanted to make however is that I remove the Internal anodes before doing the above ! I suspect I wil do the same when I get round to doing my F100
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Old 09 September 2016, 02:57   #18
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I'd be worried about flushing an aggressive acid through an aluminium engine. The main constituent of brick acid is hydrochloric acid, mix that with ally & you end up with lots of hydrogen, water & salt. It might be something I'd consider if I had a problem, but not as a routine treatment.
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Old 09 September 2016, 03:08   #19
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A good run in a fresh water lake does a nice job
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Old 09 September 2016, 03:17   #20
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A good run in a fresh water lake does a nice job

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