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Old 19 October 2004, 06:37   #1
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Falkirk
Boat name: a boat
Make: Narwhal
Length: 4m +
Engine: Force 40hp o/b
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 112
Outboard blowing fuses....

Need some help here guys -

I have a Force 40hp 2-stroke ser. no. OE002172 (1994 I think) - When it does finally go tits up I will replace it with something a lot better, but for now its what I've got!
Motor starts well, runs great, but blows the main 20 amp fuse sometimes. It seems to only happen when stopping the engine. Typical scenario - skier/tuber falls off, go round to pick him up, helping him aboard pulls killcord, engine stops - so far so good!
Get skier etc squared away, replace killcord, attempt to fire up motor - nothing - no power, no T&T, totally dead!
Hood off, check fuse - blown!
Replace fuse, and away we go - everything rosy!
I think it happens when stopping the motor cos its happened a few times coming into beach the boat - kill the engine early to coast in, only to find theres no power for the T&T, so sometimes it ends up dragging the skeg - thats OK on sand but not on rocks!
I suspect a bad earth somewhere, but I dont know where to start on this one - any ideas?

Bill
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Old 19 October 2004, 07:51   #2
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Country: Other
Town: Oakley
Boat name: Zerstörer
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 140
MMSI: 235050131
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,931
I've just done some re wiring on a 20 year old motor.

It wasn't in too bad shape, in fact it was overall in very good shape. The reason I did it was I was getting no charge on the battery, turns out I needed a new rectifier. Whilst I was waiting for the part I decided to check all the wiring. So far I have only done the engine, control loom and kill cord.

I found that the kill cord did'nt work at all as the wires had pulled off the switch. I disasembled the switch and rebuilt it that works okay.

The main problem I came across was where the control wiring entered the engine along with the wires from the battery. This had been crimped overtight and in fact had snapped one wire and another one was about to go.

This has all been repaired and everything seems okay now. Next job is to do the wiring on the cockpit area.

It would seem that the first thing you should do is visually all your wiring looking for anything obvious that might cause a short. In particular check between the engine and your control/cockpit area. The thing with boats is that they are not built to a precise procedure like cars etc, but assembled at the dealers in a myriad of combinations.

I suspect the fuse is actually blowing when you start or shortly after starting the engine.

Take a look at this site. Tell them your problems and see what they come up with.

http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi

I'm not too sure how to post a link in this forum but you can copy and paste the above in to your address bar and take it from there.

Also if you need to buy some spare parts can I suggest that you get them form the US of A, its a lot cheaper than here. Do a quick search on E Bay for the part you need and see what prices come up.

For instance I had to buy a Rectifier. UK cost over £60 new. One second hand one on E Bay for £35. In the US second hand cost me £11.50. No import tax but I'm still waiting for the postage bill.
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Old 19 October 2004, 11:23   #3
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Falkirk
Boat name: a boat
Make: Narwhal
Length: 4m +
Engine: Force 40hp o/b
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 112
Biggles,

Not blowing fuses at startup - otherwise I would still be able to trim up after engine stops (see bit about beaching). Definately happens on shutdown!

Have already asked for same help on iboats forum - Force experts appear to be away at the moment - but I'm hoping......

Have already visually checked what wiring I can see - looks fine!

I suspect that the kill switch earths out thru the block somewhere to kill the engine, and its finding an easier route thru where the fuse is mounted at present. My next step is going to be to remove all earths and common grounds to the block that I can find, make sure they are clean and bright, then put them back nice and tight! This sounds logical to me - anyone got any other ideas?

Now where did I put that manual?

Bill
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Old 19 October 2004, 11:57   #4
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Country: UK - England
Town: Brixham, Devon
Boat name: FLY-BY/FLY-BY II
Make: Ribcraft/Avon
Length: 6m +
Engine: Honda 175/Yamaha 30
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 311
I had a similar problem on a Mercury 60 2 stroke a few years ago. It turned out to be a common fault with the t/t switch on the outboard itself.
Disconnected it and not problem at all after that.
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Old 19 October 2004, 12:12   #5
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Country: Other
Town: Oakley
Boat name: Zerstörer
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki DF 140
MMSI: 235050131
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,931
Some of these engines have a Mercury tilt switch on as well that can malfunction. It kicks in when the engine is knocked up to protect it.

Check the manual if you have one.

Regards.
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